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BondoBobCustomSaddles

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Everything posted by BondoBobCustomSaddles

  1. For those of you that are always looking to learn how to make saddles, Cary Schwartz is one of the best. His work ranks up there in the stratosphere along with Keith Seidel andther notables. This is your chance to get some info on how it's done by someone who's work is displayed in the American Heritage Museum in Oklhoma City. Bob
  2. Just had to ask. Every time a see a pic, or artists' work of a phantom, I always look. I did 3 cruises as a hydraulics specialist with VF 161 in the sixties. Love them birds, they have a certain look that just stands out. Bob
  3. You can easily get along with out one , till you get into projects that require large pieces and several sides to complete. Then, you will see the wisdom in having one. Once you have one, you won't be able to understand how you ever got along without it! Bob
  4. Dwight that is a really nice idea. Very well conceived. If I ever get time to make a set up like that, It is no now on my bucket list. For now, my cutting table is 10' X 5' and I can easily have a few sides on it and work around them with out issue. Besides, I usually don't have much laying around because I keep my inventory down to just what I need for a saddle and a couple of lesser projects. On the other hand, I really like your idea and will get it done sometime when I am in between saddles. By the way, In the first pic, that Vietnam poster has on it a Phantom on it, that wouldn't have a VF-161 tail insignia on it would it? Bob
  5. I have one and it is the most used tool I have, bar none. Bob
  6. M, if you get the books by All Stohlman, they are very well illustrated and will get you a long way down the road. There are others out there that are also good, but; for starters I would suggest these. I've been using mine for over 20 years and still refer back to them from time to time. Bob
  7. Thanks Again for all the nice comments. The lady that owns it is now riding it and if we can get her down off it long enough for a pic of it on the horse, I'll post it also. Bob
  8. First, those are called "darts" in the seating industry. The leather seating in vehicles have lots of them in the patterns, that is how it is done in production, you just have to be careful not cut into the area stitched. Second, as for what Tinker says, he is right, you are not doing "production" and can spend the time to glue and stretch around the corner before stitching. Just what you are comfortable with. Bob
  9. Yes Toot, I agree. Like I said before, you and I see a lot of things the same way. Guess it's an age thing. Bob
  10. Ok Thor, you asked for it! She has a facebook web sight and has already started to post video. You can access it here ( www.facebook.com/groups/chance2ranch/ ) It sounds like she will be posting more video as she progresses with training. Enjoy! Bob
  11. Thanks to all for the kind words, when I see her again, I will ask about a video. Bob
  12. All the information you have already gotten from these guys, will get you a long way down the road. one last bit of information and in my opinion very, very, important, case properly. There is a tutorial by Bob Park, on this web sight. It will make your work "pop" and get you where you want to be. Bob
  13. So here is one that I just finished for a female customer. She is into Western Dressage, which is gaining in popularity here in the Michigan area. This saddle features, insert padded seat, narrow twist area and wide seat area to accommodate the female anatomy, along with stirrups set back 1 1/2" from normal to allow for her to sit up straight and have her leg position below her without forcing her inner thighs outward. Also this saddle is deeply cut in at the leg position to allow very close contact with the horse and rider, it also has a "youth" horn to allow for interference free hand position since she rides with a bosal. The color and tooling is of her choice. She brought me a picture of what she wanted and said can you do this? I did. I'll post a pic of it on the horse once she gets it to me. Bob
  14. If Sheridan is your desire, I highly recommend Bob Parks book. He not only tells you how, but; explains the way to layout your patterns to make them aesthetically pleasing to the eye. By the way, he also has a tutorial on this web sight on casing your leather. Like Chief said, practice, practice ,practice. You will see your work benefit from it. Bob
  15. Blue, I am confused, are you making the tree, or is your tree maker making it? When I make a saddle, I take templates of the horse the saddle is intended to be for, and send them, along with a few pics of the horse, to my tree maker. He makes the tree for me, to fit the horse. In the last 20 years or so, I have never had a tree not fit. I have made saddles for everything from arabs to drafts, and some really weird crosses like Standardbred/arab with no problem. Bob
  16. I also do it the same way Keith describes when making a saddle with plate rigging. Bob
  17. Yes, they are. No I don't line them, I simply use the sheepskin just as I do for fleecing a saddle. I lay it out hair side out, allow enough to have some room and stitch the front and back together, then I turn them inside out, (hair side in), and stitch on the thumb. It took several try's to get it right. It's a real bugger to get it right with enough room to turn them, but; the effort is worth it when it is cold out.
  18. I suffer from arthritis in my right hand, so warm in the winter is paramount. When it gets really cold out, I wear a pear of mittens I made from Sheepskin scraps I had left over from re-fleecing saddles. When I am out at the hay auction or other outdoor activities, I am wearing them. Yes they are bulky, and can't do a lot with them, but; that doesn't matter, again warm is paramount. By the way, yes the fleece is 3/4" long. Bob
  19. All I can say David, is , enjoy the ride. it's just one of those things that happen in life. Don't fight it, go with it. Bob
  20. Over the last twenty years or so, I have needed to lighten the color on something a few times, and I can honestly say, I have tried everything you can imagine, without much results. Hopefully there is someone out there that has the "silver bullet" for this. This old dog would like to learn a new trick. Bob
  21. I make saddles and only use real sheepskin on my saddles, so; I always have a bunch of sheepskin fleece scraps on hand. I use them, with the dye straight out of the bottle. I apply it in a circular motion over the whole project. Depending on how dark and uniform I want it to be, I may use more than one application. And of course, like the others have said, pay attention to saturation. Too much is also not good. Bob
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