BondoBobCustomSaddles

This is only an opinion, but; since I have experience in not just the saddle making business, but; also in automotive seating, and painting, I have learned that if not absolutely forced to use waterborne materials, I stay away from them. In my opinion, they came into being because people believe they, are like castor Oil, good for you. I am almost 71 have been using all the various Ethyl based products for most of those years with no adverse results. You just need to head precautionary measures when using them. Again, that is my opinion, like belly buttons we all have one. Bob

I use a CB4500 and certainly it will get the job done for you. I believe the other 441 clones will also serve you well. Bob

When this happens to me, I simply buttress the pointed end on m anvil and thump it good from the head side with a hammer. It will clinch much like the nail holding a shoe on a horses foot. A couple of good thumps and the point will be below the surface of the raw hide and rounded so as not to catch the stirrup leather. Bob

I do burn the ends, but; while they are still hot I smooth out the bumps with the metal edge of the lighter. Bob

The stain appears to be from the dye from your friends jeans. I would get some oxcallic acid from your drug store. It comes in crystal form mix a table spoon with a few ounces of distilled water and rub it on vigorously, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Let it dry, you may need to re clean it twice. When dry it will look "whitish" or bleached out. After cleaning use pure neatsfoot oil. At this point it should be back to normal. After that I would put a coat of Tan-Kote over the whole saddle. It won't hurt. I would not dye the whole saddle darker, unless you really want a darker saddle. Bob

Like the old cook in Lonesome Dove says, "a good knife is like a good wife, you have to strop her every night!" Bob

Grey, yea that is the funny part of it. I used the same steel wool, out of the same pkg, prepped it the same way as as before with hydrogen peroxide for a couple of days to promote rusting, then in the same vinegar (out of the same bottle) and let it work for 3 days then filtered out the metal and crud, and let it cook for 3 more days. Nothing different but; the results was not nearly as strong. Going to try again. I like the vinegaroon as it does a nice job on quick projects and repairs. Bob

I can only speak to vinagaroon. The first batch I made worked so good, I actually have been using it a lot. Second batch not so good. For some reason it just doesn't get black like the first batch. Go figure the maker must have done something wrong! Bob

Glad to see you here Dustin. Weaver has been good to me along the way, and I am sure the others here will benefit from your involvement in this web-sight. Bob

I still have the original patterns left over from my first saddle . I made them out of the Stohlman books. Like Ron, I have remade them and reused them a bunch over the last 20 years. I save what others I have made and always mark them so I know what patterns I used on a particular saddle. Almost always I end up with another set when I am done cause they are constantly evolving, but; I still use the originals as a baseline. It just depends what the customer is requesting, sometimes I just wing-it. For instance, I just took an order for a Western Dressage saddle. There will likely be quite a few changes that I will make, that I have not done in the past. So, here comes another set of patterns! Ron, as for your question, if it is handy, and I need it and it will do the job, it is pattern material. I have patterns made form all kinds of stuff, like, parts of corrugated boxes, liners fro packaging, mylar sheet from the old engineering days, even cut up boxes from the post office! When all else fails, I run up to the office store and get some poster board. Bob

Ok, first what the others have said pretty much gets the job done. I use Weldwood on saddles and most tack. I don't usually thin it, cause I use it fast enough on saddles that it is gone before it starts to get too thick to use, however; occasionally it will sit in the shop long enough to get thick, then I use laquer thinner, which is a mixture of MEK, Acetone, and either Toluene or Naptha. Of course it is nasty stuff, but; then again I have been using it for the best part of 50 years in painting cars and automotive parts and so on and I am still normal (I think! ). With that said, on belts, I go a different route. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive (get it at your local hardware). It is easier to apply , goes on even gives a good bond adheres fast and is generally good stuff, flexible and all that. We used to use it in automotive seating and it works very well. Hope this helps, Bob

Just to add this, a guy can never have enough "toys or tools". If you think you need it, you can even put up a good case to your wife for having her get it for you, birthday, anniversary, Father's day whatever. Bob

Thank you very much for sharing. Doesn't look like things have changed all that much from then till now. Bruce I thought of you the instant I saw those splitters. Wouldn't you like to just walk back in time and go through that door, looking for some work? It is easy to get lost in time. Thanks again, Bob

Hi Tommy, welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of really good folks here that are always will to help. I have a good friend I visited last fall in Oklahoma City. I everybody in OK named Tommy? Just kidding, enjoy the sight. Bob

From time to time I have also purchased from him, usually, stuff like bison hides, colored chap leather and so on. Very good to deal with. I consider him one of my regular suppliers. Bob

All the superlatives have already been used, so I'll just add my congrats on nice work. It reminds me of a song, my dad used to sing, "pistol totin' mama lay that pistol down". Again, nice work. Bob

Nicely done, clean not cluttered. Nice work. Bob

I second Ferg's comments. Be Careful! Bob

Sometimes the simplest technique works the best. Good resist, and quick wipe (aided by the use of baby wipes) gets the job done to perfection, like Bob says. Bob

I, like Jeff specialize in saddles, however; you do what you have to in order to survive. Actually you can make a good deal of money on repairs. For some reason folks are more willing to keep using a piece of used up tack and keep repairing it rather than just getting a good well made saddle that will last them a lifetime. On repairs I have a set hourly rate plus material for what I do. If I made a saddle and charged by the hour, I would not sell even one around here. Bob

I have one and use it for things like putting zippers in boots, and pursed and patching. I really use my cowboy most of the time, but; it comes in real handy for the odd job or zipper or what ever. Yes it is crude, but; then again, so am I! It works and that's all I'm gonna say. Bob

Yea, I may have done it wet also, it has been so long ago I just don't remember. Bob

Shoot Bruce a note, if anybody knows, he does. Semper Fi Bob

My old standby is one I made about 20 years ago. It can be made simply if you really want to. First get a piece of threaded rod 3/4" x 9" long, and three nuts and washers to fit. get some raw hide, back then I had some large dog bones laying around, so I used them. Soak them till soft, spread out and tack to a board till they dry. Then use a large round punch, about 2" and cut out a pile of discs, enough so that when stacked and squeezed they are about 2" to 2 1/2" thick. Mark the centers and using a 3/4" punch and punch out the centers. Now put them on the end of the rod with a nut and washer on each side of them and tighten them as tight as you can. once you have done that you have the basic. Now you can make a handle out of anything you prefer. put it on the other side of the rod and add a nut .hold it in place. Cut off the excess rod that is left and vulah ! Now depending on how nice you want it to be, you can do things like make the handle out of stacked leather and turn it on a lathe in order to contour it to your hand and add brass "acorn" nuts and washers on the ends and so on. Bottom line, you can make it as fancy or plain as you wish for minimal expense. You can adjust weight by adding a couple of washers to the head end, but; be careful, you might end up making mauls for a hobby! Making tools is addictive. Bob Bob

Where are you guys located? Bob