BondoBobCustomSaddles

That's funny, I use a piece of boiler plate too. I started out with what I had sitting there, always intending to get a granite to replace it, still am one off these days! Bob

Exactly what I am talking about! Bob

Between Toot,r, and my notes you should have a good base to get past the issue. One last note, in the Stohlman books, I think volume 1 there is a chart for fender lengths to use as opposed to a given riders leg length. The chart is right on and I have used it for years and always get it right. Bob

You have to be careful, there are all kinds of scams out there and they aren't bashful about trying to get into your information. I have had them send me a note saying they are interested in ordering saddles and want to know all kinds of information about me and what I have and so on. One thing that seems to crop up in their notes is that they have a very bad grasp of the English language and it shows in the communication. They miss-spell a lot of words along with poor to non-existent grammar skills. Not that we are perfect and are prone to using slang some, but; the way they butcher the English language is pretty prevalent. Be careful out there! Thanks for the heads up Ferg! Bob

Nice work as always Bruce. Good to see you are still doing some work, not just selling tools. Keep posting as you get some stuff done. Thanks for sharing Bob

First, you have the cart before the horse! I think you said that these are not the fenders/stirrup leathers you will be making for this saddle. That being said, I assume you will have your fenders a little longer, maybe 2" or so, that will go up under the seat leather, and at the same time guide the knee over the rigging, protecting the knee. Oh yeh, you should try it out with the seat leather tacked in place. That will also move the leg out over the rigging. If you are not comfortable with nailing the seat leather in place just yet, use some 1"drywall screws to secure it in the places you would normally nail it. That way they come right back out and you can still nail/ screw it in when you are finally installing it. Between the seat leather and the correct fenders, your/his problem should go away. Riding a saddle without the proper pieces is kinda like driving your hot rod before you have the body on and you are sitting on a milk crate for a seat! I've done that too! You have to make allowances. Good luck, if he doesn't like the finished product, tell him to make his own!!!! Bob

Pictures Pictures

I have done a lot of "Boss" stitching over the years, what I have done with good results is, first pull the stitch that ended on "top" back thorough the last hole before it ran out, so that both threads are sticking out the back, then while holding them tight from the back start the new thread several holes earlier and go on. When done, cut them all off as close to the belt as I can, and use a lighter to burn what's left sticking out back into the holes they come out of. If done right not only have you locked the stitch, but; also fused the new and old thread thermally. I have not had any adverse unraveling over the years. Course' I don't use my Boss much any more, but; that is how I do it with my Cowboy also. Hope that helps. Bob

Like Chief said, Aussies works and you don't have to experiment with the mix. Bob

Whistler, there is a post a couple away from this one asking how to recondition an old saddle. I posted a response there, the same applies here, only not so many coats, probably just one then a nice coat of something like Feiblings tan coat or whatever you prefer. Bob

Without pics it is hard to give good advice, however; if I had one like you describe here to work on, the first thing I would do is give it a good going over with saddle soap and water the emphasis on water. Use a soft brush to work the soap into the nooks and crannies, and rinse thoroughly, and if you have one blow it out with a compressor and a blow off tool so you can really get all that dirt and debris out of those hard to reach places. Let dry and then begin the oiling process. Usually I take a saddle partially apart so I can get to all of it in the cleaning process. After it has dried, I mix up some oil, a cup of pure neatsfoot oil and 2 or 3 table spoons of extra virgin olive oil. I heat it on the grill, (my wife won't let me use the stove, or do it in the house because of the fumes). Once it is at a simmer, I take a piece of sheep skin fleece and dip it, being careful to not get it on my skin, (or burns will occur) and wipe it on all the parts giving extra attention to the parts that I want to soften up. Give it a few hours to soak in and repeat. Be careful not to over oil. Go slowly, one coat at a time. if the leather is going to soften up a usable amount it will happen in 2 or 3 coats in a couple of days. Be patient, it took years to get stiff, it needs some time to get pliable again, if it is going to. Good luck! Bob

I remember when you originally posted about them. I wondered what had happened. Glad you were able to get back and post the pics. They are without a doubt prime examples of their work. Be sure to keep them in the great shape they are currently in. They are museum pieces for sure. Bob

Well said Randy. As for the ground seat, I have done both and regardless of what type it is, it needs to be right. Drug free, small world! Where are you at now? Bob

Didn't know there were that many dobro players out there! Just the antiques like us. Bob

Back in the days when I started, computers were something you used for work and not much ore. I got going with the Stohlman books and a lucky chance to talk and correspond with Ann Stohlman personally when I was as she put it "just a youngster". Those were the stepping block that started me off. I still refer to those books today, Al really packed a lot into them. Today I think that this web sight goes a long way towards helping learn. Bob

You've been busy Chief! Guess that's a good thing. Take care friend. Bob

Just to reiterate, what the others here have said, there is a lot of ways to get burned without starting out to do it on purpose! Keith is easily recognized as one of the "good ones". It will pay you dividends to follow his advice. I have been making saddles for 20 years or so, and I still welcome his comments. Just sayin". Bob

Yes, you are right! Grand-daughter's are the greatest! I have a few. I can tell you that you will always love them. As for your Boss, you can order the parts separately from Tippman. Bob

Nicely done set! I am sure they will be pleased. Bob

Just saw this. It is about time the rest of the folks that give out these awards see what I have known for a long time, you are the best. Couldn't think of anyone that deserves it more. Thanks for the friendship, inspiration. Bob

Welcome to the forum. Unique work. You should be able to get those sold easily. Where in Italy are you? There are lots of shops there in the bigger cities that you may be able to place your work in on consignment, or wholesale for resale. I think that may be a nice niche for you. With some of the patterns that you have been laser cutting, you may be able to incorporate those into womens foot wear, sandals and such. Again, nice work. Bob

I am right there with you Bill. My guess is that the guy doing it, may even have had the equipment first as part of work, and branched out to leather. Bob

Bruno, when I made my first holster, I had 25 loops, I found that if I skipped a loop every three, it helped a lot. Bob

Amanda, simply put, there are too many variables to how the piece was made stained and top coated, to be able to definitively answer your question without knowing these. If it were me, first I would thoroughly clean it then I would go over it with some lacquer thinner on a piece of sheepskin fleece (what I use because I have lots of it. A soft cloth will do) to get any (or all) of the finish and dye off that you can. Now after it dries, You will see what you have. Since you said that the dye is partially rubbed off, it may be that the original dying job did not penetrate too deep and you will be able to remove it. If that is the case, then you are free to finish it to the color that you wish. If not, then you will have to experiment with oils and dye to achieve what it is that you wish, or close to it. There is always the possibility that you will not be able to remove any more of the stain/dye. At this point it is what it is, and you will have to determine the final out come. Good luck, post a picture of how it turns out. Bob

Nice job Bruno. I noticed you used wood dowels for case dummies to form your cartridge loops. On my first holster I did that and found that when I put that many .45LC cartridges in in the belt if kept pulling my pants down! All in all, nice work. Where in Italy are you? My sister lives just outside of Rome. Bob