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Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. That's a great looking sheath! Nicely done!! All the best, Josh
  2. Thanks Tom! I'm so bad at light tans that they often come out blotchy even when I dip dye. It's a super talent, but sadly not a good one
  3. You're welcome. These progress pictures of some "Threepersons" holsters I built show how I this style of retention strap. In the first pic you can see the slot and rivet hole. I try to put the slot just "forward" of the top of the belt loop fold, the rivet hole is roughly 1/2" below that. In the second pic you can barely see the rivet in the center holster which has been sewn. As noted, the "Threepersons" and "Rhodesian" holsters themselves are different in several ways, but I build the retention straps for both holster types the exact same. All the best, Josh
  4. Thanks JWheeler! It's my own pattern. the belt loop gets sewn before the holster is folded over and assembled. After the loop is sewn I wet the stitching on the inside of the holster and on the outside of the loop and pound the stitches with a smooth face hammer. I use a little CS Osborne hammer called a "shoeing" hammer, I think they are for cobblers, not sure. Anyway, pounding the stitches sets them in the leather enough that I'm not concerned about wear to them. The strap goes through a slot in the top of the belt loop and is riveted just below that. All the best, Josh
  5. Thanks Radardog! I appreciate your kind words! the mix I use will stiffen things up a bit initially, but the item will flex and move and "loosen" up. At least that's my experience with belts and similar items. Holsters that were molded and "stiff" when they were finished remain stiff after being finished. One really nice thing about M&G mixed with water is that it's cheap and readily available (in the US). I encourage anyone interested in it to get some and try it. If it works for you, great! If not, you're not out much and you can use the Mop and Glo on the floor. Have a great Friday! Josh
  6. Hey Chris, sometimes when I dip an item a little of the dye will come off and "muddy" up the mix. Key word being "little". I haven't had enough come off to concern me. that said, sadly my bar for light colors is not high as I always seem to mess them up . so much so, that if I want "tan" I'll leave it in the sun and skip dye as I always get blotchy results. I also always use the same product and process, so not a big surprise. Hope you're doing well! All the best, Josh
  7. Thanks Forester! It's a "homemade" finish. I'm not sure if they sell it in the UK or if it's the same formula that they sell here, but it's just Mop & Glo floor finish mixed approximately half and half with water. I mix it together in a large container (empty ice cream bucket) and mostly I'll dunk a piece in and then shake off the excess. I also try to spread out, or wipe off any drips when I initially remove the piece from the bucket of finish. Once it's dry I'll usually wipe a little glycerin saddle soap or for something I want to be "stiff" Kiwi neutral boot polish on it to make he item smell like "leather" and not a clean kitchen floor. On some large items I'll use a scrap of shearling and wipe it on. Being cut with water it isn't too hard to get a streak free finish but dunking is easier and gets the finish everywhere. I've tried Tan Kote, Resolene, Leather Balm and assorted other finishes with mixed results but always go back to the Mop and Glo mix. It's cheap, readily available and it works for me. All the best, Josh
  8. That's really nice! Great job! All the best, Josh
  9. Thanks Chief! I oil the straps pretty heavy and haven't had any issues once reported back. The only similar rig I've built for myself is out of horse and it hasn't done any squeaking either. Not sure how different the cow would be. Thank you too ScoutMom! Have a great day everybody!
  10. I just finished up this horizontal shoulder rig for a Ruger SR9. It's built out of 8 oz HO and dyed with a mix of Fiebings brown tones that were all dumped into ths same container some time ago (very scientific, I know ). finish process is my typical, NF oil then M&G cut 50/50 with water. I do oil the straps quite heavily while going very lightly on the holster and mag pouch. All the best, Josh
  11. Assuming it's a western saddle, which seems like a safe guess, it's a pretty straightforward process but a fair PITA as well. If the old sheepskin was sewn with a machine you can pick the stitches apart with a scratch awl. If you cut them along the seam you'll be picking tiny pieces of thread, if you leave them together and figure out which side to pull up you can work with longer lengths. I've done both and think each is tedious, but do-able. It's more fun if the plugs stay put, but they may come loose requiring them to be glued back into place. Rough cut the sheepskin larger than the skirts and trim them to match once they are sewn in. The best practice is to sew the new sheepskin through the same holes in the skirt and plugs, this can be done on a machine or by hand sewing, but doing it right and going through the old holes is tedious either way. Replace the tugs and or strings while it's apart. If you don't have a good saddle making reference book(s) like Stohlman's or Harry Adams it's probably a great time to buy one. Those are a few random thoughts . Good luck with your project! Josh
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