Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. Super clean work Todd! Nicely done!
  2. Josh Ashman

    Superior Stirrup Leather Buckles

    +1 to everything Ken said. Also, the longer posts will work with 13-15 skirting.
  3. Not necessarily, how leather is tanned makes a difference. Also, where the leather is cut from the hide makes a difference. Generally speaking quality veg tanned leather that has been gauged or split to a uniform thickness is fairly smooth and dense on the flesh side. This is especially true the closer you are to the back but somewhat less true the closer you are to the belly. Suede has texture to catch dirt and grit but it is also soft and not at all dense which allows the dirt and grit to accumulate easier than on the flesh side of veg tanned leather. The main arrangements made against suede lining I hear are; 1) chrome tanned leather has chemicals that damage the guns finish and 2) easier for dirt and grit to accumulate actually damaging the finish more then having no liner. I think that both are true at least to some degree. That said, my main argument against a suede liner on a concealed carry holster is that suede is soft and spongy and I want a firm, dense holster for concealed carry. For all of the above reasons I wouldn't use it for a liner on a carry holster. Maybe for a hunting or range only holster but even then it's not a great option in my opinion. In my opinion liners aren't that beneficial if you're starting with a quality piece of leather cut from the right area of the hide and of the right thickness. That said, they can be nice and there is no downside to having a liner if you'd like one. The method mentioned by Dwight is a time tested and proven one. Make your pattern, trace it on your hide, cut it out, flip it over and use it as the guide to make a mirror of it, glue them "back to back" and then proceed as it it were 1 piece of leather. Easy lined holster and you don't have to buy multiple thicknesses of leather unless you had a reason to do so. Good luck with your project, Josh
  4. It depends a little on the hide you're using and where you're cutting your sling. If it's "strap" or "tooling" leather that has been made a uniform weight at the tannery and you're cutting closer to the top or back of the hide it'll likely be fairly smooth already. I'd just dye it, oil it to the degree you like then top coat it with whatever you like. If it's "fuzzy" for whatever reason and it's plenty thick to allow it you can use fine sandpaper wrapped around a wood block and sand it smooth. I like to sand in one direction and have the leather slightly cased. You can also "slick" it down using a glass slicker or smooth hardwood block with the edges rounded and fine sanded glass like smooth. You'd have the leather cased and smooth the grain down going in one direction. Both of these are good options If you're using skirting leather that hasn't been split to an even weight at the tannery. If the leather is fuzzy because it's from the belly you may re-think using it for a sling as belly tends to be stretchy. I haven't used Gum Trag for many years, it always seemed to me like plain water got about the same results. At the same time I have nothing against it either, for me it was just one less thing to buy. Good luck with your sling! Josh
  5. Very nice Miska! My personal preference for a sling on this type of rifle is a simple straight strap either 1" or 1-1/4" wide built out of 10 to 12 oz leather with some adjustment possible with either laces holes or a conway buckle. I've attached a pic of one of my similar rifles with a sling made just this way. All the best, Josh
  6. Josh Ashman

    Lone Ranger

    Great job Forester! Thanks for sharing!
  7. I use a 14 oz poly mallet as shown in the link below for punching slots and holes and one of the smaller versions of the same thing for tooling. I use a maul I picked up from Weaver for my makers stamp which is fairly large at roughly 1" x 1-1/2". I prefer a mallet for most things but that's what I mostly use, someone who uses a maul more often would likely prefer them, just whatever you get used to I imagine. I have had good experiences with the poly mallets. They last for years are relatively cheap. The ones from SLC in the link below are made in the USA. Good luck with your projects. Josh
  8. Josh Ashman

    Will James Wood Post Horn

    Great looking saddle Randy! Nice job!
  9. Thanks Sturme! Exposed triggers on revolvers or SA auto's don't cause me much concern, but I respect that other people have different ideas on that. I appreciate your comments! Thanks Ehvhram! Thanks Bruce! Thanks Stetson! They are spacers that are used in place of a sewn mainseam and they are adjustable to increase or decrease the tension. The parts are a stainless T nut, a 8/32 screw, a finish washer and a length of fuel hose to cover the screw between the leather. Thanks AZ! All the best everybody! Josh
  10. LR & RH matched pair of holsters for J frame S&W's. Built from 7 oz. HO. Finished with Fiebings Hi-Liter after a light coat of NF oil then top coated with M&G cut 50/50. After that dried I put a little Kiwi neutral on and buffed it off. The pistol in a few of the pics is a Colt Cobra as it's close enough to fit and I didn't have a J frame handy. Have a great Friday everybody! Josh
  11. Hey Craig, I've built more than a few of these in a crossdraw for customers and they've been quite happy with them. I don't however have any personal experience to share. I would recommend adding a hammer thong if you removed the strap just for insurance that the pistol would stay put for the long haul. The thing about building one and seeing for yourself what you think about it is that if it isn't 100% perfect the first go around you can adjust what you don't like and get it on the next try. Good luck on your holster! Post some pics when you get it done. All the best, Josh
  12. Hello bcraig, Here is a picture of a finished holster and of the leather before it was dyed and assembled. The more the belt loop portion angles in towards what will be the top of the holster the steeper the cant. this was built for a wider cartridge belt but it's the same for a pants belt. As to your other questions, as always personal preference will dictate however here are some of my thoughts; figure your paper patter prior to ordering your precut and you'll know for sure if your OK. My guess is 10" square is probably OK for a 4-3/4" SAA clone. I'd use 10/11 but a good 8/9 is probably fine. I usually try to have the belt loop portion 2" to 2-1/2" wide at the top of the fold. I like a hammer thong for retention. Easy to add it in and easy to not use it if you don't want it. I use a full welt on this type of holster, nothing wrong with a partial welt, just preference. Hopefully this is helpful, good luck on your project! Josh
  13. A few suggestions; 1) I use a regular horseshoeing hammer as a saddlers hammer. It works fine for me. 2) I've seen where others have welded flat bar tabs to the self adjust pliers similar to channel locks to make a workable set of home made cantle pliers. 3) Not sure if you're building a "western" saddle or an "english" one, but the hardware and contact cement for a western one is likely available from a hardware store. You'll want cut tacks of various lengths, SS screws with finish washers, drywall screws or box nails, copper rivets with burs and a handful of other items which are relatively easy to come by in the US at a decent hardware or farm supply store. Not sure if that's the case down under. I have no idea what's required for an english saddle. Good luck! Josh