Josh Ashman

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About Josh Ashman

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  • Location
    Southwest Missouri
  • Interests
    Leatherwork & Horses

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  1. Narrower lace, or a bigger round hole, or oval holes as Brian suggested would all work fine. With each you get a different look, none "right" and none "wrong", just different. I'm certainly no lacing expert (obviously, if I were mine would look better!), but what I was looking for on this was lace that touched at the edges, or at least was close to it. I missed that, so to me it doesn't look right. With the hot weekend forecast (100 + for SW Missouri) I may cut this off and re-do it just as an excuse to stay inside under the AC I absolutely love model 92's! yours sounds great! All the best, Josh
  2. Thanks Chris! I sure love the lever guns myself! Thanks Brian! Elongated holes would have helped. Although, I think the main issue I had on this project was that the lace, which was cut at 1/2" had stretched out to where it was only 3/8" or even a little less out at the tailing end. Since I started wrapping at the pistol grip and finished up at the end of the stock it leaves more of a gap as you move back, with the last wrap being the worst. Adding to that, the last wrap is also leaned "out" from pulling the slack back under the previous wraps making it look even worse. The lace I used was cut from the hide that's under the rifle in the pictures. It's getting pretty low on the side. I think that a better lace, cut closer to the spine and more consistent tension on my wraps would have gone a long way towards cleaning the lacing up. Elongating the holes would clean up the "bunches" where the relatively wide lace goes through the much smaller hole, although those "bunches" are fine with me if they lay flat enough. Making the holes elongated would also have given the lace a little more room, which in turn would have made for less stretching. It's a good suggestion, thanks for making it! Have a great day folks!
  3. The title pretty well says it all. I was less than thrilled with how the lacing finished out on the ammo sleeve, but it's one of mine so I'm not going to bother re-doing it. HO 8 oz for the body of the sleeve with 4/5 oz bullet loops sewn on. The sling is 10/11 oz HO. Both were dyed with an old bottle of Tandy cocbolo water based eco dye that I have watered down several times. 2 coats of NF oil after that and then some Aussie wax and a day in the sun. Pretty fun little rifle! Anyway, thanks for looking and have a great day folks! Josh
  4. Josh Ashman

    I'm in stitches !~

    Very nice! I often use both NF oil and antique. When I do, I always put the NF on first, then follow up with the antique. Not saying that's the "right" or "only" way, just the way I do it. Great job on the sheath and knife!
  5. Josh Ashman

    Tapering a welt

    Looking good! +1 to Dwight's comment, "Success is always good, . . . no matter how you get there." Looking forward to seeing the finished knife and sheath! All the best, Josh
  6. Josh Ashman

    Tapering a welt

    I use a head knife. Cut your welt out of 12/14 oz heavy skirting (or multiple layers of lighter leather), dunk it under water for 10 to 20 seconds, let it sit or "case" for a little while, 10 minutes or so, lay it flat on a glass cutting board and make 1 long sloping cut from full thickness down to a feathered edge. It takes a little practice, but if you have a head knife I think it's the easiest way to skive anything. I don't have a lot of good pictures, but this one shows a holster with a full welt plus a skived 2nd welt at the top. You can see that 2nd layer of the welt runs from full thickness down to nothing. Anyway, that's how I'd do it. The tools you have on hand and your work space dictate what works best. Dwight's method with a belt sander is probably great as well. I have a head knife and don't have a belt sander. I also work in the loft in my house and any power tool sanding sends leather dust down to the living room, which according to my wife is NOT desirable. Good luck with your sheath! As others have said, your blade looks great! All the best, Josh
  7. Josh Ashman

    Knife sheath

    Good looking sheaths for sure TargetRock!
  8. Josh Ashman

    Cross Draw Knife Sheath

    Thanks Biker! Dikman, Thank you! The handle is bone, and the knife maker did do a very nice job! As for my stitching, that was me avoiding stopping and starting more than I wanted to. Start on the inside row, go around until you cross 3 or 4 stitches, go sideways to the outside row and go around it until you cross over it 3 or 4 stitches. Then you have 2 rows of stitching with 1 start and 1 stop point. No real reason besides me being lazy Have a great day folks! Josh
  9. Little cross draw sheath I made for myself! The knife was a gift from my wife and custom made by a friend. I believe he buys the Damascus blades "pre-made" but the handle is all him. The inlay is our brand. For the sheath I used 8 oz HO. It has a full welt around the knife which has been skived from full thickness to nothing at the outer edge. The finish is NF oil, followed by Aussie Wax and a day in the sun then topped off with a little glycerin saddle soap. I've only had it done for a few days but so far the design seems solid. All the best, Josh
  10. Josh Ashman

    Knife sheath

    Hello Dave! Good looking knives and sheaths! I know just what you mean about having enough welt to keep the guard from pushing the belt loop over, which in turn has a tendency to push the knife up a little in the sheath. I think what TexasJack was suggesting is that you could have skived the welt fillers down as you moved away from where the guard sits. They need to be full thickness at the top, but an inch or two down and 2 of your 3 - 8 oz welts could taper to nothing and just leave the 1 full welt which should match the thickness of the blade. Another thing you could have done would be to use a larger beveler, like a #4 or even a #5 to really round out the edge. Both things are a matter of personal preference. Tapered welts to reduce the overall thickness or edges that are more rounded wouldn't make your sheaths any better, and not having them certainly doesn't make them any worse. Speaking for myself, I like thick leather and heavy duty gear, which of course leads to thick edges. I built my first saddle with my only beveler being a #3. When I see that saddle now the edges all do look pretty chunky, which is fine, just different that having them more rounded. Anyway, good job to you and the knife maker! All the best, Josh
  11. I looked at the link and it's not stated clearly but the deal is 11.98 for 12 of them or $29 for 100 of them. Of course the 100 for $29 works out to $0.29 each, but that item is for lots of 100.
  12. Regarding the cracking, it seems like lesser grades of leather (read Tandy bargain bin) is often more susceptible to this than better grades (read Hermann Oak or Wickett and Craig). Some neatsfoot oil may help. In my experience, both the Fiebings pro oil dye and regular Fiebings alcohol based dye dry out leather and require NF oil after dyeing. The regular, alcohol based, dyes just require more oil. Regarding rivets on knife sheaths, it's your sheath and you made it the way you like. This is just the way it should be and I don't presume to tell you what you like or don't like. However, if you look at your old bowie sheath you'll notice the leather has a tear in it at the top corner of the sheath, right there by that rivet. Look around at old knife sheaths and if they have rivets they very often have tears at them. Just one man's $0.02, worth exactly what it cost you. Have a good day and nice job on your various projects. Josh
  13. Josh Ashman

    Hand of God Holster

    Awesome work Forester!
  14. Thanks Steve! I commented on your post in the "Show Off" thread. That's a great looking rig and kudos to you for seeing something you liked, modifying it to suit your needs and tastes and making a great looking rig! All the best, Josh