Stitching Close To The Gun

[ps0303]

I haven't done very many holsters but I have read lots here. One problem that seems to plague me is trying to get my stitching as close as possible to the trigger guard. Correct me if I am wrong with how I determine where to stitch. I have read that you measure the width of the frame and divide by 2 then take that number and measure that distance from the frame while it's laying on your pattern and that is where the stitching goes. On the slide side if the gun that seems to work ok. When I stitch around the trigger guard it seems to be way off. I would like to get the stitching closer. Is there a better way to determine my stitching location and to get it closer to the trigger guard? Btw this is a pancake style holster.

Thanks for your input.

[dickf]

The issue with the trigger guard is that it's never the same width as the frame of the gun - it's always more narrow. I assume the results you're getting are that the stitch line is too far away.

I don't think there's a secret formula to determine where it should be, but you'll probably want to simply bring it in a bit and see how it works out. This is one of those things you may just have to eyeball until you get it right.

[particle]

I'm not discounting anything you said (regarding the formula for determining the stitch line). However, here is my approach.

Lay the gun on your piece of paper, trace the outline of the gun onto the paper, then figure out your perimeter cut line. Offset the line around the bottom of the slide and trigger guard about 1/2" to 3/4" inches, depending on if it's a relatively thin/thick gun. Go ahead and stitch it up and form the holster.

Once you've built the pattern once, you can very quickly determine if you need to pull the stitch line in/over/up/down exactly by X amount. Simply get out the ruler and measure the needed offsets, revise your pattern, and you should be good to go with the next holster!

Take a nasty section of your hide (scuff marks, scars, insect bites, nasty looking backside, etc.) and build your first holster.

Here is an example of one I recently did for a 3" 1911. I didn't have time to build a mock-up version first, and all of my "scratch-n-dent" sections of the hide are already gone. The holster is in the customer's possession now, but now I can look back at my photos of it an know exactly how to tweak the stitch line - bring it in about 1/8", and bring the trigger guard stitch down about 1/8" - the curve was good, just a little bit in the wrong location.

[gregintenn]

I don't see the need for absolute perfection on a conceal carry holster anyway. Who's gonne see it?

[Denster]

Here is how I do it and it is generally on the money right out of the chute. I take a piece of posterboard and lay out a square L with my square. About four inches in from the upright I lay the gun with the muzzle on the horizontal line and draw a profile line from the triggerguard where it will be at the top of the holster down following the outline of the gun when I go around the bottom of the triggerguard into the horizontal plane or around the frame cylinder portion of a revolver I go wide of the profile of the gun by 1/2 the thickness of that part plus one thickness of leather till I get back to the vertile plane which is right on the profile of the gun to the muzzle. At the muzzle I go out a couple of inches to the right on the horizontal and leave a tab. I then cut this out with a utility knife and have the stitchline with a four inch handle on the back and a two inch tab extending to the front.

On pancake holsters I insert the gun into the glued up holster that has allready been stitched on the front wing and pull the leather down around the gun and clamp it as close as I can with a spring clip behind the triggerguard and make a dot with my stylus on the leather then do the same at the muzzle. Take the gun out lay the holster flat and lay my stitch pattern against the dots top and bottom and scribe the stitchline with my stylus. I also at this point mark the horizontal tab where it meets the forward stitchllne. I also measure from the forward stitchline to triggerguard mark at the top of the holster and write this on the pattern. Then on future holsters all I have to do is measure from the forward stitchline at the top and make a mark. Put the top of my stitchline pattern on that mark and the mark on the horizontal tab at the muzzle on the forward stitchline and scribe it out.

On envelope style holsters the mark on the horizontal tab at the muzzle lines on the outside edge of the holster. I haven't found a good way to measure over to the top at the triggerguard so I still insert the gun and clamp to get my mark there. Otherwise the process is the same.

Since the same pattern can be used for several different similar guns I make stitchline patterns for each and mark them accordingly.

Hope this helps.

[Denster]

I don't see the need for absolute perfection on a conceal carry holster anyway. Who's gonne see it?

Because a close stitchline is paramount to the long term retention ability of the holster. Some might find that important.

[JeffGC]

I don't see the need for absolute perfection on a conceal carry holster anyway. Who's gonne see it?

I think it's a matter of one's goals. If your goal is a product that's commercially acceptable, as long as the customer will pay for it, it's okay. If you goal is to make a product that is as close to perfect as possible, the little things count. Making a 95% product isn't that difficult. A 98%-plus is a challenge.

It's the finer points of holster construction (edge finishing, stitch lines, boning, etc.) that set certain craftsmen apart from others.

Jeff

Edited March 8, 2010 by JeffGC

[Kate]

Because a close stitchline is paramount to the long term retention ability of the holster. Some might find that important.

DING DING DING DING! We have a winnah!

The fit makes the holster, IMHO. Once the belt is buckled down on mine, you could hold me up by my feet and shake me and the gun would stay in the holster. Secure retention is all of it for a carry rig, even concealment comes in (a close) second.

Well, comfort is pretty high up there too, especially for us older ladies who tend to be a bit softer than we were in our youth. Nothing like a dehorned hammer in the ribs to drive that particular point home, so to speak

[okie44]

Well, I know that if you ask 10 different folk, you may get 12 different answers.Ha! I know it is what ever works for the individual. I have been making a few holsters, mostly for my own use, for a while now, and what seems to work best for me is this.

I usually use 6-7oz leather, and I have gotten in the habit of downloading a profile photo of the gun off the internet, then make a full size print. I cut this out and use it to trace around on the leather. You can use the actual gun, but this way is more accurate, and easier to handle. Then, On an envelope style, I layout the profile, then allow the thickness of the slide, then add the other side of the profile. On the trigger guard side, I allow about the thickness of the leather. I glue the sides together, then stitch it up. This will produce a holster that is too small to slip the gun into. I soak the leather in water, or isopropyl alcohol (I prefer the alcohol), then stretch the holster to fit the gun. This results in a good fit, while removing all excess stretch from the leather, so it is less apt to stretch and loosen its fit with wear. This will pull the stitch line up very close to the trigger guard. On a pancake holster, just lay out both sides, and allow 1/2 the slide thickness along the spine, and allow The leather thickness on the trigger guard side.

When doing this, the beginning fit will be very tight, and at times I have wondered when starting to stretch, if this time, I have gone too far. However, at least so far, I have yet to have one that would not work properly and fit well, after forming. Hope this helps John