Pineaple Knot Question

[BrokeStrand]

I have been working with these knots off and on for a couple of years now and there is a couple of things I can quite figure out.

1. When starting the first interweave, is there a rule for which side of the standing end you should start?

I read in a post on one of the forums about a guy who which side of rhe standing end to start on and why but he didn't elaborate.

2. When covering a sphere with lace, how do you get the top and bottom to completely close up?

I've seen some work where the ends were completely covered.

I would like to add my name to the list of people who appreciate this site and KHWW for helping promote a fadig craft.

JR

[skyout]

Hi Broke Stand,

I start the 1st interweave 2 bights over to the right of the first TH because that's the way Dan Alaska does it, but I think you could start anywhere. The thing you should try to remember is to keep the ends (standing and working) spread out around the knot to tuck them in w/o causing bunching up.

Dan's tutorials

http://pineapple.myf...d182672b2cb7687

I don't think anything over 4 bights will close completely but I don't remember where I heard that. I have not tied a 4 bight yet to really know.

I did find this link talking about it a little but it's for covering handles. See Jim C's post# 2.

http://igkt.net/sm/i....php?topic=23.0

Hope this helps.

Or you could just do like this and stick something in the bottom. LOL I got the idea for this from Hooey, not that I'm comparing my work to his.

Here's my second shark tooth trophy PK fob. You can find/pick these teeth up off the beach all day long in Venice Beach, FL, USA.

An 8 strand square sennit to a 5/8" wooden core drilled in two places (out both sides) for the 16 strands of red and black 1/16" nylon line. I drilled 2 holes to accept both ends of the sq. sennit (they are not tied together at the base) so the constrictor knots holding them would not be seen.

I hand carved the core for the base of the shark's tooth and I also had to reshape the base of the tooth with a hand file before gluing it in. The base of the PK will actually hold the tooth in place once tightened. I used a 12part X 12bright, 2 pass, Type 1 pineapple knot for the covering.

Link to pic at Reply# 10:

http://igkt.net/sm/i...php?topic=994.0

">http://igkt.net/sm/i...php?topic=994.0

Rick

skyout

[KnotHead]

I have been working with these knots off and on for a couple of years now and there is a couple of things I can quite figure out.

1. When starting the first interweave, is there a rule for which side of the standing end you should start?

I read in a post on one of the forums about a guy who which side of rhe standing end to start on and why but he didn't elaborate.

2. When covering a sphere with lace, how do you get the top and bottom to completely close up?

I've seen some work where the ends were completely covered.

I would like to add my name to the list of people who appreciate this site and KHWW for helping promote a fadig craft.

JR

First thank you for the kind comments about my site. But really, it is all the members who make it work.

1. Like skyout said, it does not matter where you start the PK from. But if you were say to be starting the PK interweave at the standing end, then you would always start the PK interweave to the right hand side of the standing end.
2. The more passes you make on a type 1 PK, the more the knot will fill in around a sphere. Much like a Heel knot does. By making more passes, this will in turn close up the ends much tighter because the PK is causing the middle of the knot to bulge out because of the building of the knot. The more build out you have in the center of the knot, the more the ends will close up. You will also have to compensate when you make the base TH for how many passes in the PK interweave you plan on doing. If you don't do that you will have a base TH that is too short for the object you tying around. Hence, the ends will be too short and ride down the object.
3. Make sure when you tighten and dress the knot that all the chevrons, or crossings are straight in a vertical fashion and that all the chevrons are close to each other and tight. This part is the toughest to achieve. I know from experience.

Well, I hope that helps answer your question and a few others. Thanks once again for the kind comments about my site.

Brian...

[skyout]

Well, I don't know what I was thinking before because I have tied PKs with 4 bights. They were some of the first I learned. So I pulled one of them out for a gander and sure enough, the ends are completely closed up. The pucker effect is obsolete in these as the 4 bights form a square. Here's a couple of pics, hope they help.

Here's the 8 part X 8 bight Type 1, 2 pass from the 5p x 4b TH in University of FL colors, GO GATORS!

Oh, and my grandson's favorite drink. LOL

Here's the bottom of the PK. Sorry it's a little blurry but I hope it's clear enough to see clearly the opening is completely closed up by the bights forming a square.

On PKs with more than 4 bights, I've done numerous things to "hide" the wooden core at the pucker. I've glued leather under the bights and I've tucked cord in the accent color as well as the base color just to hide the hole. Dan Alaska told me once that I shouldn't have a hole there, even w/larger bight PKs, but .... I haven't been able to accomplish this either. Another thing I've learned is PKs with larger # of bights don't lay down flat at the ends, they kind of pucker up. My 1st trophy PK with a sharks tooth I lost about 3/16" of the tooth in the "gap" between the core and the cord. The red and black one in the link from my prior post was adjusted for the gap.

Well, hope it helps some.

Rick

skyout

[BrokeStrand]

Skyout,

How does the bootom of you University of Florida knot look? Did it completely close up?

This one gets really close: (not mine, merely used as axample)

http://khww.net/photogallery.php?photo_id=1791

I can't find the image I want to use for a reference. I think it was a rock covered in rawhide with a ?px5b pineapple. The top closed up completely to form a star.

Brian,

You got it right. It is a heel knot with a 7x6 base. It got pretty tough when I reached the 5th interweave. I tried dressing it and of course found a mistake. I took most of it apart and tried again. It looks OK, but you can still see core at the top and bottom.

Would it help if this were a type 3 pineapple?

Thanks for your help,

JR

[skyout]

Skyout,

How does the bootom of you University of Florida knot look? Did it completely close up?

Thanks for your help,

JR

Yup, there may be a tiny hole there but it's not as big as a pencil lead. Sorry for the bad pic. Maybe this will be a little better. Here are two PKs with the 5px4b TH.

[skyout]

This PK is tied especially hard and tight (it's like a rock) w/5/32" cord on a 3/4" wood ball. It is a 12p X 12b, 2 pass, Type 1 with a 7p X 6b TH for the base.

The base has a 3/16" hole at the star that is 1/4" from the core to the outside edge of the blue line.

I have not been able to get the hole any smaller than this???