Lobo Posted March 25, 2010 Report Posted March 25, 2010 In cutting belt slots there is another thing that needs to be kept in mind, and that is the angle of the slot to the belt line. If the slot is to be precisely perpendicular to the line of the belt then a 1.5" slot length will be correct for a 1.5" belt. When the angle of the slot is changed (on an angle to the belt line) the length of the slot needs to be increased. Every possible angle will result in a different length. I like to use wooden mandrels to lay out belt lines and mark the points at which the slots are to be cut. I make the mandrels in 1/4" thickness, about 12" long, and for each belt width (1.25", 1.5", 1.75", etc). This permits all belt attachment points to be laid out and marked at once. Then while the holster is being formed I use the wooden mandrels to form each belt attachment point, forcing the mandrel all the way through all belt attachments (slots, loops, etc) to simulate what a belt will do when the holster is worn. As the holster dries the fully formed belt attachment points become permanent. Actually, the angled belt slots provide some advantage. Since the slot length actually exceeds belt width the belt can be pushed through more easily, and then when the belt is fully through all slots (loops, etc) it will be firmly anchored top and bottom. Quote Lobo Gun Leather serious equipment for serious business, since 1972 www.lobogunleather.com
Denster Posted March 25, 2010 Report Posted March 25, 2010 You'll like the dies. Just remember to tell them what you are going to be cutting through so they can grind them correctly. The Tandy one can be made to work wel,l as the steel is decent. You do have to clean up the inside and then lengthen that secondary bevel on the outside. They were not, as they come, designed to punch belt slots in heavy veg tan but slots in bag leather for closures or straps. Trying to wallow that big shoulder behind the edge through heavy leather is an excercise in futility. Quote
Members gregintenn Posted March 25, 2010 Members Report Posted March 25, 2010 I punch two 3/16" holes 1.5" apart, center to center. I then draw two straight lines from the outer edges of the top hole to the outer edge of the bottom hole. I then cut along the lines with a hobby knife. Probably not the most efficient way, but it works for me, and those punches are expensive! Quote
Denster Posted March 25, 2010 Report Posted March 25, 2010 I punch two 3/16" holes 1.5" apart, center to center. I then draw two straight lines from the outer edges of the top hole to the outer edge of the bottom hole. I then cut along the lines with a hobby knife. Probably not the most efficient way, but it works for me, and those punches are expensive! Depends if you are doing it as a hobby or business. It only takes the time saved on 3 or 4 holsters to pay for the punch. Quote
Members particle Posted March 25, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 25, 2010 Okay - I just got off the phone with Texas Custom Dies, and placed an order for a couple punches. Very nice lady, easy to talk to, and very helpful. They don't stock the punches, and custom make them per order so you can get them exactly the size you want. Now I just need to order a 4 lb. maul! Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members gregintenn Posted March 25, 2010 Members Report Posted March 25, 2010 Depends if you are doing it as a hobby or business. It only takes the time saved on 3 or 4 holsters to pay for the punch. Point well taken. I am a hobbiest. Quote
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