JeffGC Report post Posted March 30, 2010 I just finished a pancake holster for a LEO friend. It's made with 8 oz. Wickett & Craig plated leather and dip dyed in Fiebing's USMC Black. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted March 30, 2010 Nice clean work Jeff. Atractive design too. Can't see anything to fault. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olliesrevenge Report post Posted March 30, 2010 It's a beautiful holster. I like the USMC black as well, I feel like it's much "blacker" than the color of the Pro black. Your molding and detail boning lines are very tastefully done IMO, not too much detail - but just the right amount. If you are interested in sharing I'd love to hear the details of how you work the boning process. How long in the water, length of casing time, what modeling tool you use, whatever... Thanks for sharing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted March 30, 2010 Nice clean work Jeff. Atractive design too. Can't see anything to fault. Recently, my designs have improved. Using French Curves makes a big difference. Thanks for the nice comments. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted March 30, 2010 It's a beautiful holster. I like the USMC black as well, I feel like it's much "blacker" than the color of the Pro black. Your molding and detail boning lines are very tastefully done IMO, not too much detail - but just the right amount. If you are interested in sharing I'd love to hear the details of how you work the boning process. How long in the water, length of casing time, what modeling tool you use, whatever... Thanks for sharing Thanks for the comments. My process is not overly sophisticated or complicated. I dunk it in warm water for about five seconds. As soon as the surface water is absorbed, I insert the blue gun and start working with my hands. My boning tools are very basic. I use the back end of an awl handle and a very small, spoon-shaped leather tool. I add the crease with a blunt scribe. I also use a wood clay modeling tool. I leave the blue gun in the holster until dry. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
303brit Report post Posted March 30, 2010 Great job, I really like your design Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattsh Report post Posted March 31, 2010 Very,very nice. Clean lines and good stitching. I like it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob A Report post Posted March 31, 2010 Very nice. Do you use anything over your dye? I'm wanting something with less shine to it and like the way yours looks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted March 31, 2010 Very nice. Do you use anything over your dye? I'm wanting something with less shine to it and like the way yours looks. I apply Bag Kote with a dampened sponge. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rccolt45 Report post Posted March 31, 2010 Hey Jeff, what do you mean when you say you started using a french curve. Is that a tool or a style of curve? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted March 31, 2010 Hey Jeff, what do you mean when you say you started using a french curve. Is that a tool or a style of curve? I was waiting for this question! A French Curve is a drafting tool. For a full description, go to: French Curve Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted April 9, 2010 Yesterday, I received some feedback from my LEO friend to whom I gave the holster. I was a bit disappointed by his comments and would like some input on their validity. My hope was that other individuals in his agency would see the holster, be suitably impressed and then order one. When I gave him the holster, I told him I'd want $100 for similar ones. "For $100, you need to use thicker leather." The holster was made of 8 oz. plated Wickett & Craig leather. The mouth does not have a reinforcement. I mentioned this to him, explaining that a reinforcing band would present a thicker cross section at the mouth. "The belt loop portions need to be wider." Is my $100 price out of line? I suspect I'm high. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted April 9, 2010 (edited) IMHO I would think that price is a little high however what you should probably do is figure out the price of the materials. Then find out how long it actually takes to make it (hands on time) and figure out how much you wanna get paid. This process is better then just throwing out a "I would like to get this for it price". EDIT: OK its been a while since I bought a holster so I looked around a bit and seemed like the average for pancake style holsters nicely boned was around 60-80 with as low as 25 and high as 90. Looking at market prices is also another thing to consider. Edited April 9, 2010 by MADMAX22 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted April 9, 2010 Yesterday, I received some feedback from my LEO friend to whom I gave the holster. I was a bit disappointed by his comments and would like some input on their validity. My hope was that other individuals in his agency would see the holster, be suitably impressed and then order one. When I gave him the holster, I told him I'd want $100 for similar ones. "For $100, you need to use thicker leather." The holster was made of 8 oz. plated Wickett & Craig leather. The mouth does not have a reinforcement. I mentioned this to him, explaining that a reinforcing band would present a thicker cross section at the mouth. "The belt loop portions need to be wider." Is my $100 price out of line? I suspect I'm high. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Jeff You did an excellent job, but I think $100 is too high considering the following: That holster is literally flat as a pancake. When he straps it on, it will collapse the mouth and probably render one-handed holstering impossible. It should be molded on a curve, as it will sit on your hip. Nobody has perfectly flat hips. While it's wet and you're molding the details, bend the wings in a bit toward the back side of it. I think a general hard-use pancake for a full-size gun requires 8-9oz leather. This is another variable that will help keep the mouth open and make the holster feel more robust. Think about getting in and out of a cruiser countless times, running, hitting the gym, etc. It needs to stand up, and while the 8oz certainly won't fall apart, the 8-9 should be harder when dry and will feel sturdier. It seems like a trivial difference, but it will make a significant one. The slots look like they're positioned very well, so I assume he wants the slots cut wider to allow a 1/4" thick carry belt. or he may think the belt loop 'wings' need to be spaced further from the body of the holster, but I think molding the rig on a curve will alleviate that. My final critique would be to bring the stitch line in at the front of the trigger guard. Your current line is boxy and the trigger guard on the Glocks have a swoopy front. Follow the lines of the gun and you'll maximize it's retention and lifespan. Refine your pattern, make it again, and post the results. Just a little tweaking on a beautiful holster will make it a functionally beautiful holster. I look forward to seeing what you decide to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted April 9, 2010 For a simple pancake design $50 to $65 would be a better range. Dickf is right 8/9OZ makes for a sturdier holster particularly with no mouth reinforcement and the tunnel loop design and a full size weapon. Molding the holster to a curve is also good. A handy tool to make for yourself are two 16inch belt blanks one 1&1/2" and the other 1&3/4" both 1/4" thick really helps with forming the belt slots and molding to a curve. I think belt slots should be a minimum of 5/16" and I think 3/8" is optimal. That accomodates those that feel a dual purpose gun and weight lifting belt is called for. Still a really nice holster. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillinOK Report post Posted April 9, 2010 Yesterday, I received some feedback from my LEO friend to whom I gave the holster. I was a bit disappointed by his comments and would like some input on their validity. My hope was that other individuals in his agency would see the holster, be suitably impressed and then order one. When I gave him the holster, I told him I'd want $100 for similar ones. "For $100, you need to use thicker leather." The holster was made of 8 oz. plated Wickett & Craig leather. The mouth does not have a reinforcement. I mentioned this to him, explaining that a reinforcing band would present a thicker cross section at the mouth. "The belt loop portions need to be wider." Is my $100 price out of line? I suspect I'm high. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Jeff Hi Jeff, I have been a LEO for over 30 years, carrying all sorts of guns. I have made many pancake holsters for LEO's. I'm with the others on the price, a little high. Depending on how your LEO friend is going to wear the holster, depends, somewhat on how to build it. I have made some that were quite heavy and others quite light. Depends on what they want and if that will work. I usually get around $50 - $65. From looking at the belt loops, they need to be somewhat larger....as in lenth and width. Some officers wear an underbelt as a regular belt off duty. These can be thick or heavy. Also, as Dick pointed out, these and the holster needs to conform to the hip area, especially the belt loops. When wet molding the holster, I form the belt loops. I get them to where I want them by inserting a heavy piece of leather. After I've done the molding and while the leather is still damp, I will check to see how it wears. Then the heavy leather is re-inserted until the leather is dry. I try to reach a point to where your belt fits almost as if there wasn't a holster there. I have used 7-8 ounce leather, but not on a pancake (unless it is lined), or reinforced. When I make a holster, I try it out. I'm looking for comfort, but fast on drawing. And yes I've made them to where they were scrapped. After drying, putting them on and the gun was too hard to get in or out. For me, that's scary and dangerous. Talk to some of the officers and see what they are looking for, both in price and functionality. Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted April 10, 2010 The leather is quite thin. I measured it with a caliper and was a bit surprised that it was .118". Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted April 10, 2010 The leather is quite thin. I measured it with a caliper and was a bit surprised that it was .118". Jeff You'll loose a little thickness when you have the leather jacked (plated) in this case .007. One of the reasons I like Hermann Oak so well is it has a nice firm hand to it right from the go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted April 10, 2010 For what it's worth, I was on the phone with Herman Oak today asking a couple questions about their leather. One thing the guy on the phone said is that he has several holster makers that make Law Enforcement holsters, and they all buy 9 - 9.5 oz. leather (9-10 oz). Not sure I want to buy anything that thick, but thought it was worth mentioning since your LEO friend mentioned the thickness issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted April 10, 2010 For what it's worth, I was on the phone with Herman Oak today asking a couple questions about their leather. One thing the guy on the phone said is that he has several holster makers that make Law Enforcement holsters, and they all buy 9 - 9.5 oz. leather (9-10 oz). Not sure I want to buy anything that thick, but thought it was worth mentioning since your LEO friend mentioned the thickness issue. Good point Eric. The holsters I wore on duty in plain clothes were heavier in construction and always had some form of retention device as opposed to what I wore off duty and out with the family. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JeffGC Report post Posted September 23, 2010 Following the advice offered by forum members, I've constructed an improved version of the Glock 22 pancake holster. Regards, Jeff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NoahL Report post Posted September 24, 2010 Following the advice offered by forum members, I've constructed an improved version of the Glock 22 pancake holster. Regards, Jeff Wow, that's nice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Reaper Report post Posted September 24, 2010 I just finished a pancake holster for a LEO friend. It's made with 8 oz. Wickett & Craig plated leather and dip dyed in Fiebing's USMC Black. Very nice for sure Jeff! I really like the lines and the belt loops are a nice touch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted September 27, 2010 Very nice work.....do you ever have a problem with the USMC black with Bag Coat rub off on clothing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Reaper Report post Posted September 27, 2010 Very nice. Do you use anything over your dye? I'm wanting something with less shine to it and like the way yours looks. Justins Boot Cream will do this for you Bob. It will give you that flat finish like you see on MX and Biker Boots of old... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites