Overstitch Wheel?pricking Wheel?marking Spacer?

[chouinardragon]

Hi,

I bought an old CS Osborne marking spacer but I don't know what it is used for. There're also pricking wheel and overstitch wheel that I don't know how to use.

Here's what I thought in my mind.

overstitch wheel and marking spacer - used to mark stitching space then uses a same size pricking chisel to punch stitching slits

pricking wheel - used to prick stitching slits without pricking chisel

Am I right?

Chris

[Hilly]

Hi,

I bought an old CS Osborne marking spacer but I don't know what it is used for. There're also pricking wheel and overstitch wheel that I don't know how to use.

Here's what I thought in my mind.

overstitch wheel and marking spacer - used to mark stitching space then uses a same size pricking chisel to punch stitching slits

pricking wheel - used to prick stitching slits without pricking chisel

Am I right?

Chris

I'm not an expert at anything, but here's my take:

A pricking chisel is normally not used to pierce the leather, but simply to mark the location and angle of where the awl is to pierce the leather. I have never heard of a pricking wheel, but imagine it would be used in the same fashion.

Overstitch wheel is used to mark location of stitches. They are also sometimes used after stitching to help the new stitches lay nicer and appear more even.

[Woods]

I have had the opportunity to learn from several very talented leather workers, and one thing always remained constant: Those tools are for marking the leather for stitch placement. Then each hole is individually pricked with your awl. I used to use a diamond punch (6 stitches per inch) and pound on it to pierce the leather, and while this worked, it left rather large holes that did'nt look "right" Pricking each hole individually is a tedious pain, but your work will look SO much better and neater,it is worth the effort. For example, I was making a civil war era item, and selling them for 25.00, using my old slam method. Did'nt always do well. Now, with the longer, but neater approach (and once you do it a few times, it does'nt take THAT much longer) The same item sells for 45-50 and I can't make them fast enough. Sorry to ramble!! And Hilly is correct, if you use the wheel, prick and sew your item, then run the wheel back over, it will "compress" the stitches and make it look almost machine sewn. This is just my 2cents, but has worked well for me.

Woods

[chouinardragon]

Hi,

Thank you guys. Here are the pictures as attached.

I still doubt that they are all using in the same way...Three of the wheels are all look so differently...

Hi,

Thank you guys. Here are the pictures as attached.

I still doubt that they are all using in the same way...Three of the wheels are all look so differently...

But I'll follow what you instructed me.

Chris

[MADMAX22]

They come in different threads per inch spacing and each brand seems to have there own little design on how to do it.

The overstitch guys from what I understand were more of a combo space marking then ran back over the threads once sewn to kind of lay them down and keep them in line sort to speak.

The others which are just for space marking have more of a point and actually pierce the leather a little bit, this gives you a staring point for the awl blade so as to make sure you hit the exact same interval every time.

Atleast thats my limited understanding which is pretty much what was covered.

[Woods]

Chris, from what I can see in the photos, it looks like the 1st one is 5 or 6 spi wheel, the second looks alot like my 7 spi wheel, and the last one is probably a 10-12 spi wheel. Somewhere on the tool, there should be a number, (many times it is on the wheel itself, but not always) and that # designates the spi. Madmax is right, if you press the wheel hard enough into the leather, it will leave a small indentation for your awl blade, but unless you are using VERY thin leather, it won't go all the way through. Being as how the first 2 are Osbornes, and the last was unmarked (from what I can tell) that would explain the difference in appearance. Those are nice wheels though, have fun using them. One more thing, a wheel just marks the spacing for you, while a pricking chisel marks spaces AND the angle at which you would pierce the leather with your awl. If you use the first 2 wheels, you will get something that will look like this:

l l l l l l l l the last wheel should look like this: . . . . . . . . . . . Now from there, it would be up to you to angle your awl properly as you prick the leather. On the other hand, a pricking chisel leaves marks that resemble this:

/ / / / / / / / / the angle is actually marked for you. I know folks who use both wheels and pricking chisels, and each seems to have their favorite. Hope this helps.

Edited April 1, 2010 by Woods

[yotebuster1200]

so were can a guy (or gal) find pricking chisels?

[Woods]

Yote, try Siegle for your first attempt, but I will tell you now, pricking chisels (more appropriately called "pricking irons") are VERY expensive. EBAY may also have some as well.The best, I am told, come from Joseph Dixon. I use stitching wheels for the most part, and I have a 6 spi pricking iron. You can get stitching wheels from mostly all vendors, and I would just reccomend a vendor that supports this site, as prices are on average for wheels. You may have some difficulty finding some finer stitching wheels, but they are obtainable if you persevere. Antique and flea markets are a good source, if you know what you're looking for. Good luck,

Eric Woods

[chouinardragon]

Hi guys,

Thanks a lot.

I was wondering if I use a 6 spi pricking iron to mark on the leather first, then when I start to stitch, I have to use the awl to pierce the leather.

How can I make the stitching hole go straight and even?

There're seldom people using overstitches and pricking irons in Taiwan and I don't know why.

People here are using pricking chisels to pierce the leather directly. Maybe most of us are taught by the leather textbooks translated from Japanese.

I wish I should try somthing different using a pricking irons or overstitch.

Chris

[MADMAX22]

Being proficient with the awl just takes time and proper practice. At first you will get the front to look really good but the back side is what usually takes the most time to learn how to get properly lined up. Once you get the feel for it though you will speed right along and have very nice looking stitching.

[chouinardragon]

Hello,

I think there's no short cut. It takes time to get there. Practice makes perfection.

Thanks man.

Chris

[tonyc1]

Hello,

I think there's no short cut. It takes time to get there. Practice makes perfection.

Thanks man.

Chris

Almost correct. Perfect practice makes perfect!

Tony.

[Dany]

To make a pricking iron is quite simple - you need only a piece of sheet iron (ca 1 mm thick), hacksaw and triangular needle file. And some measuring instrument, of course. I like to make my tools myself, moreover it was relatively difficult to buy any leather working tools here in the Czech Republic several years ago so that I was really forced to DIY. An idea:

Sorry, I'm not able to insert image, I'll try again.

Edited April 16, 2010 by Dany

[Dany]

pricking iron:

Sorry, again nothing.

Edited April 16, 2010 by Dany

[chouinardragon]

Hi Dany,

Thank you.

I admire that you can make tools yourself.

It's kind of easy to get leather tools in Taiwan.

But I do love "everything" that made in the USA, such as jeans,shoes,boots,backpacks...of course, leather tools.

Attach photo:

Click the "Click To Attach Files" icon, search for the photo you want to attach.

I don't know how to insert photo either.

Chris