Stamping Cantle Bindings

[Steve]

If you are going to stamp a binding on the bench, do you fit it up and establish the borders, then let it pretty much completly dry before taking it off? How do you handle the stretch, tape, glue it to plexiglass or just deal with.

Thanks in advance

Steve

[kseidel]

If you are going to stamp a binding on the bench, do you fit it up and establish the borders, then let it pretty much completly dry before taking it off? How do you handle the stretch, tape, glue it to plexiglass or just deal with.

Thanks in advance

Steve

Hi Steve,

With the cantle roll finished and ready to bind, and the cantle binding skived as I want, I glue both cantle and binding and let dry. ( this helps resist some stretching and gives some grip when fitting.) Then wet thoroughly and fit and shape binding top and back edge only. It is not necessary to wrap the underside at this point. Mark the borders where you want, remove the binding and flatten. Let the binding dry. I prefer it dry completely or nearly. Tape the back with a heavy mil packing tape... it will stick well to the glued surface. When you stamp, it will not stretch. Then let dry again before removing the tape. If you remove the tape while wet, it will expand. Before you re-wet to final fit, put a very light coat of oil over the tooling. This will prevent damaging the fine detail in the tooling when wet and re-fitting. The oil will be forced out by the water when re-fitting, and not leave any color. Stitch and finish as you normally would.

Does this answer your question?

Keith

[Steve]

Hi Steve,

With the cantle roll finished and ready to bind, and the cantle binding skived as I want, I glue both cantle and binding and let dry. ( this helps resist some stretching and gives some grip when fitting.) Then wet thoroughly and fit and shape binding top and back edge only. It is not necessary to wrap the underside at this point. Mark the borders where you want, remove the binding and flatten. Let the binding dry. I prefer it dry completely or nearly. Tape the back with a heavy mil packing tape... it will stick well to the glued surface. When you stamp, it will not stretch. Then let dry again before removing the tape. If you remove the tape while wet, it will expand. Before you re-wet to final fit, put a very light coat of oil over the tooling. This will prevent damaging the fine detail in the tooling when wet and re-fitting. The oil will be forced out by the water when re-fitting, and not leave any color. Stitch and finish as you normally would.

Does this answer your question?

Keith

Yes sir, that sure answers my question.

Thanks a bunch, stamping bindings isn't my favorite job. On the bench should make it quite a bit better.

Thanks again

Steve

[kseidel]

I never liked them until learning how to stamp them on the bench. Now they are fairly easy. I have found that it has helped me get the cheyenne roll more precise as well. On the bench, you can make some adjustment in the final borders to make them more parallel that are not noticable on the cantle. I think you will like this method.

best of luck,

Keith