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rdb

New Pancake Design For Me.

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Trying to work out a decent pancake design, that's mine, and works. I haven't tried on it on my body yet, so can't tell you yet how it feels and rides. In the back of my head I had crossdraw in mind. Might not be enough cant, dunno yet.

Pardon the sloppy work, but was going for form on this one. Still don't have a press to do the molding/boning. Obviously, I need one...

Used my Glock 22c. 8oz veg/277 thread/dipped in dye/harness dressing/sno-proof

Critique away, I've already done my share of it, too...lol, but any pro holster makers out there, I'll take any and all suggestions for design improvement.

PS: The belt is 10/11 bridle with 4oz veg liner.

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First. Really nice belt. On the holster a couple of things jump out. You might want to redesign the sweat shield so as not to interfere with the draw and get some clearance between the lower part of the grip and the holster so you can get a firing grip on the gun. To my eye the termination at the bottom rear of the holster seems a bit abrupt. Other than that not bad at all.

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Thanks Denster!

I'll take your suggestions into the next design up, for sure.

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I'd want the sweat shield to be only the size of the slide, and the cant would be backward for me, as I like a forwad cant. Other than that, I really like the holster. As the previous poster said, that is a fine belt as well!

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Trying to work out a decent pancake design, that's mine, and works. I haven't tried on it on my body yet, so can't tell you yet how it feels and rides. In the back of my head I had crossdraw in mind. Might not be enough cant, dunno yet.

Pardon the sloppy work, but was going for form on this one. Still don't have a press to do the molding/boning. Obviously, I need one...

Used my Glock 22c. 8oz veg/277 thread/dipped in dye/harness dressing/sno-proof

Critique away, I've already done my share of it, too...lol, but any pro holster makers out there, I'll take any and all suggestions for design improvement.

PS: The belt is 10/11 bridle with 4oz veg liner.

rdb, I'm a southpaw also. What I'm thinking is, the holster may not have enough cant for a decent cross draw, you'd have to place your hand in an awkward position to draw and the draw would be more upwards than a smooth cross...draw. I also think that if you were to increase the cant to rectify that situation, weapon retention would be compromised. BUT, give 'er a go and see how she works. Mike

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Thanks everyone. I've started to redesign already based on your suggestions, appreciate them.

Mike, You may be right on the cant, but it looks like I can get a bit more out of it, so I will try. I think when I'm done, I'll post right in this Topic, and keep it all together. If nothing else we may see an evolution of a design ( or complete flop...lol)

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Let me start by saying that your attempt to be unique paid off. I have been doing leatherwork of all types for over 35 years now. Holster making is of it's own, a creature that is hard to tame... I, like you started modestly years ago, and started making my own duty gear for Law enforcement, due to the fact that there was something I did not like about store bought goods. Through the years I have developed and improved all the accessories and holsters, and have field tested all of them. Pancake holsters are a half breed of compromised duty rigs that are more convenient to wear. Your holster has a strong developement, and the proper cant that has been tested by the Air Marshalls and FBI. It appears that the cant you developed is close to these, so that the weapon can be accessed while sitting or driving. I however would do away with the clothing shield that is excess. It will eventually break down and get in the way, making it difficult to reholster the weapon after use. The basic holster itself is sound in design, but missing a retention device to keep the weapon in place in case of spills, or in most cases an attempt to gain control. This is easily rectified by using a T nut in 8-32 threads, a hex head screw of about 1 1/8", a small piece of auto vaccum hose 1/4' ID and a saddle washer. Placed just below the trigger guard, these items work more effective than a thumb strap. Trust me when I say that a few cows died in vain during my research and developement stage, but now I have repeat customers all over the world, that utilize my products. Stick with it and look at the designs used by the commercial makers, that can be implemented in your personal designs. The day we stop learning is the day they fill the hole in behind us... You have a strong grasp, keep moving forward.

Daniel.

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Thanx Lawdog. As with the other advice, I'll take your suggestions seriously and incorporate into the next design.

I did do a little redesign on the first one, and to keep LW the way I like to think of it, I'll show the new design here.

This one has a shortened sweat tab, and curved to not obstruct the grip, more room for fingers to grasp the firearm. Putting the holster on, it seemed to be just the right cant for sitting/driving, but the larger flap side (rear of crossdraw position) seems high over the belt line.

If anyone wants to jump in with suggestions, please do. We can all claim this pattern if it does get finalized. We'll call it the "LW Crossdraw". If it never gets off the ground, we wont call it anything ...lol

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Looks much better IMO. I think for the back belt loop section you could bring the lines in more at the top and bottom around the loop. Basically contour it more to the belt loop. This should get rid of alot of that extra leather. I dont think it will effect the durability or integrity of the holster much if any.

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If you're worried about the sweat shield getting floppy at some point, you can always add another layer of leather to the flap and run it down far enough to make a tertiary loop.

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Let me start by saying that your attempt to be unique paid off. I have been doing leatherwork of all types for over 35 years now. Holster making is of it's own, a creature that is hard to tame... I, like you started modestly years ago, and started making my own duty gear for Law enforcement, due to the fact that there was something I did not like about store bought goods. Through the years I have developed and improved all the accessories and holsters, and have field tested all of them. Pancake holsters are a half breed of compromised duty rigs that are more convenient to wear. Your holster has a strong developement, and the proper cant that has been tested by the Air Marshalls and FBI. It appears that the cant you developed is close to these, so that the weapon can be accessed while sitting or driving. I however would do away with the clothing shield that is excess. It will eventually break down and get in the way, making it difficult to reholster the weapon after use. The basic holster itself is sound in design, but missing a retention device to keep the weapon in place in case of spills, or in most cases an attempt to gain control. This is easily rectified by using a T nut in 8-32 threads, a hex head screw of about 1 1/8", a small piece of auto vaccum hose 1/4' ID and a saddle washer. Placed just below the trigger guard, these items work more effective than a thumb strap. Trust me when I say that a few cows died in vain during my research and developement stage, but now I have repeat customers all over the world, that utilize my products. Stick with it and look at the designs used by the commercial makers, that can be implemented in your personal designs. The day we stop learning is the day they fill the hole in behind us... You have a strong grasp, keep moving forward.

Daniel.

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Hi,

I read this with great intrest! I don't quite get the retention idea, but it sounds very sound. Can you send me a photo so I can see what you mean by placing the screw below the trigger guard? I am sure I will see right off that I know what you are talking about. I don't know for sure what a saddle wassher and a T nut is. I'm sorry I just started to make holsters and have been using the thumb break retention system; however your design sounds much more effecient.

Thanks,

ernie

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