Adler 205-370

[carythesaddler]

having some stitch issues with adler 205 370. seems like a sensitive machine to us. stitch isn't picking up bottom thread after about 3-4 initial stitches. timing seems good. is this a tension issue? since i'm always out on the road selling, times in the shop are tough as this takes up so much of our time.

any help is appreciated.

Cary

Custom Saddlery

www.mysaddle.com

[Wizcrafts]

having some stitch issues with adler 205 370. seems like a sensitive machine to us. stitch isn't picking up bottom thread after about 3-4 initial stitches. timing seems good. is this a tension issue? since i'm always out on the road selling, times in the shop are tough as this takes up so much of our time.

any help is appreciated.

Cary

Custom Saddlery

www.mysaddle.com

In my experience, occasional skipped stitches are typically caused by too little pressure on the pressor foot. This allows the material to lift as the needle begins its ascent. If the material lifts with the needle then the thread cannot form a loop under the work and the shuttle has nothing to pick up and bring around the bobbin.

Constant skipped stitches are caused by the timing going out after a thread jam, or from broken needles jamming the shuttle assembly.

Skipped stitches on Adlers may be caused by using the wrong needle and thread size. Adler 204 and 205 machines are setup for one particular needle size. If you try to go up to a larger needle it may jam and break off at the pickup point. If you go down more than one or two sizes the pickup point will be too far away to catch the loop. If this turns out to be the problem, contact any Adler parts dealer and order a different shim spacer for the bobbin case. The shims move the pickup point closer to or farther away from the needle, depending on their number. A number 200 shim is designed to work properly with a number 200 (US #25) needle.

[carythesaddler]

thanks for the information. looks like the needle is catching slightly on the shuttle. we're taking it apart and will try new shims and a new needle.

[busted]

thanks for the information. looks like the needle is catching slightly on the shuttle. we're taking it apart and will try new shims and a new needle.

Did you get the 205-370 fixed yet? Something is worn if the needle is striking the shuttle or the needle is bent.

The 794 needles will work in this machine 180's, 200's, 230's or 250's for that matter should not affect anything if it does

bother then the timing needs to be reset.

How long have you owned the machine? Is this the first time this has happened? How many stitches pm are you running?

[buckow]

I have a 105-8 that also does this. It misses the 3rd or 4th stitch and the needle is grazing the shuttle. I tried a smaller needle and it still grazes the shuttle. Sounds like I have the wrong shim? At the same time my presser foot does not jump forward like on my 45k89 so I am wondering if that could also be the problem. It seems like the spring is much softer than the 45k. I will have a look at the shims.

By the way, great forum and thanks for all the good info!

[grail]

I have the Adler 205-370 and am having problems with the top thread fraying. I have 277 top thread, brand new 25 needle (does not have a burr) and 200 shim. Bobbin has 207 thread. Checked the timing and the shuttle hook is just barely behind the needle. I worry about loosening the 2 round tightening bolts underneath - the screws are so very tight and once when I did try and tighten them I could not get them tight again without shifting the hook every time - had to call a repairman to tighten them and keep/get the hook to stay where it needed to be. Is there a sequence of which bolt underneath to undo first? Or how to position/fix the (axel?) underneath in a way so the hook won't shift off this careful placement so easily? It's hard to keep looking up from underneath the machine to the side bobbin case area. I assume the hook not being forward enough - to the front end of the needle is the cause of fraying top thread. There IS some PLAY in the shuttle hook movement, i.e. when everything is tightened you can jigger it back and forth a tiny bit, about half the width of the needle as you view the needle from the long groove side. Should I aim for the hook to be at the center of the needle, the long groove side - when the hook is sitting still ... though you could jigger it forward a bit? Thanks in advance. AB

[awharness]

You may want to check in the shuttle, where the thread runs through, sometimes that tab that creates the tension can open up a bit and just a little bend inwards can correct the issue. I find this will happen every so often, althought juki and Adler shuttles seem to hold up a little better than the Chinese ones in my opinion.