Let's See Your Ccw Type Revolver Holsters

[JeffGC]

This is the third version of an evolving design. V1 had traditional belt slots. V2 looks almost like the holster pictured. V3 (current version) provided slightly more hand clearance when gripping the revolver. I'm comfortable will this design, which is final. The pattern and stitch line is the same for both AirWeight and AirLite revolvers. Boning is different due to the shrouded ejector on the latter. Pictured is a S&W 340PD. This is a great concealment holster, riding tight against one's side.

Made from 8/9 oz. Wickett & Craig, dip-dyed in Fiebing's USMC Black. Finished with Fiebing's Bag Kote. Sewn on a Tippmann Boss.

Jeff

[katsass]

Hey guys,

I have dabbled a bit with OWB revolver holsters but cant quite seem to get them like I want. I'm working towards something similar to Galco's "Fletch" style holster. To me, the revolvers are more difficult (and less fun) than making a holster for a semi-auto. Just my opinion

I'm going with an open top for a Ruger GP100, slight forward cant, high and tight. This is one I made for a friend (did it for free, so I decided to play around with some snake and see what happened). I think it turned out pretty good for my first try at inlaying, but the actuall fuction leaves much to be desired. My biggest concern is re-holstering.

Anyhow I would be interested to see some of yor revolver work. Thanks!

ETA - I apologize for the GIGANTIC pics! I'll try and fix that when I get home.

Sixer, I understand where you're going with your design, but, I have found (and this may just be me) that a lot of times less is more. More comfort and usability. I tend to stay with a more 'traditional' style for wheel guns, and to a large degree, auto pistols also. My holsters are done with two layers of leather, bonded together flesh side to flesh side, and equalling about 9/10- oz leather. I dry my stuff (after molding) in the desert sun, rather hot, you know. (it's 7:30 am right now and 82 degrees....will get to almost 100 today) The same effect can be achieved by force drying in a more moderate or humid climate. This produces a very rigid product after molding....negating the need for an additional piece at the top to help hold the mouth of your holster open. Here is a couple of pics of a little J-frame holster that I designed and wear. It's comfy; holds the gun in close to my chubby's; stays where it needs to be, and is easily concealed by a loose shirt tail. The secret to these type of holsters is the belt loop, IMO. It must be wide, as heavy as the rest of the holster and made to fit the belt, snugly, that you cary it on. Of course these are just my opinions and may be worth about as much as you paid for what you get. Mike

[BigRiverLeather]

I don't make revolver holsters anymore, but I still have pictures of the first two I ever made.

I was surfing the interwebs and saw these two holsters reviewed somewhere, I think it was from some magazine. It talked about an "up and coming" holster maker :D so it must have been a few years back. It was my final inspiration to make one for my GP100. A year and a half of making holsters and this is my first avenger style. I call it the BNP, Bruce Nelson Professional.

For me it conceals under an untucked square bottom camp shirt.