Stohlman Vs F.o. Baird Patterns - Western Holster

[FiftySix]

For a quicker draw, I will make it a shade bigger next time (like an 1/8"), but for fit and retention, it worked well.

I went with the Stohlman pattern. Once cut I folded the sides together and then used rubber bands to hold the shape so I could test fit the 45. It's tight - very tight. For grins I tried my Ruger 22 as well. On the smaller gun there was plenty of room (maybe too much). Next time I think I'll go with your suggestion and give the sides an extra 1/8" for the 45 off the Stohlman pattern - I think that would be just right. I may need to add a filler to the trigger area on this one to create a bit more room.

[rdb]

yep, that's pretty much what i found...glad i helped

[FiftySix]

. . . and his "secret" is to always cut em a little big, . . . you can always cut em down he says, . . .

I'm thinking this is the ticket... Thanks!

[TexasJack]

Listen, get Chuck Burrows' holster making DVD. It's worth every penny. His technique allows you to make the holster to fit the gun. (His sheath making video is even better!)

[WillGhormley]

For what it's worth...

I make all my patterns to fit the specific pistol. I use a series of minimum measurements to make sure the gun fits in a holster constructed of 9-10 oz. leather. You can make it larger without any problem, but it starts gettin' tight if you go much smaller than these standard measurements. Now, I like a holster that fits a gun tight enough it's still in the holster when you need it. I don't mind yankin' that baby out, I just hate checkin' my back-trail looking for iron.

For instance, for a Colt 1873, (or clone thereof), I lay the pistol down on the folded paper just as mentioned before and trace it. Then, I add 5/8" around the trigger guard, 1" around the frame and ejector housing, and even down the barrel, (though you can start to fudge a little on the barrel, don't get under 3/4"). If the holster is goin to get a toe-plug, I allow 1/4" at the end. If it is goin' to be a sewn, round toe, I allow 3/4" at the lowest portion of the curve. If I'm addin' a lining, I generally ad 1/4" to every measurement, except for a toe-plug. The lining doesn't add enough thickness to change that measurement. With those basic measurements as my, "not tighter than this" guide, I give the holster the contours I want to see after that. Works every time for me.

Will

[FiftySix]

For what it's worth...

Coming from what I consider to be an expert, it's worth a lot! Thank you! Those guidelines will come in mighty handy on the next cut out. BTW - I've got your Cartridge Belts pattern set waiting for me to finish the holsters. I'm liking the Ranger style for this project...

[WillGhormley]

Yeah, the Ranger Belt has a lot to offer in style. It's probably my favorite all-'round belt.

Oh, on the holster measurements, those are for traditional holsters without any welts or whatnot.

Will