Need Workflow Advise

[particle]

A customer requested that I antique the tooling on a holster I'm building him (similar to the following photo). The one I'm building for the customer will be light brown with natural thread color. I typically dye the pieces first, then assemble. I'm trying to figure out the best way to apply the antique, while hopefully preserving the thread's natural/white appearance. I'll need to apply satin sheen to the dyed pieces, then antique, then satin sheen again. Obviously this will make it hard to absorb water... Should I just build the holster like normal, then antique the whole thing (thread and all) before the final sealers and finish coats?

I suppose I could build the thing, antique it, then rip the stitching out and hand stitch it, but I don't really consider this an option....

[Luke Hatley]

A customer requested that I antique the tooling on a holster I'm building him (similar to the following photo). The one I'm building for the customer will be light brown with natural thread color. I typically dye the pieces first, then assemble. I'm trying to figure out the best way to apply the antique, while hopefully preserving the thread's natural/white appearance. I'll need to apply satin sheen to the dyed pieces, then antique, then satin sheen again. Obviously this will make it hard to absorb water... Should I just build the holster like normal, then antique the whole thing (thread and all) before the final sealers and finish coats?

I suppose I could build the thing, antique it, then rip the stitching out and hand stitch it, but I don't really consider this an option....

I would get it ready for sewing...... Antique it then sew.now the thread will be clean.

[particle]

The problem I foresee is this... after I attach the reinforcement/tunnel piece of leather, I wet the holster to allow it to fold easily - then let it dry. Then I glue and stitch it closed. Then I wet it again and form it. The guy at Tandy said wetting the holster would wash off the antique... I would be wetting it twice. And I need to seal the leather before I apply the antique, which will affect the ability to fold/form the holster.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

What about waxing the thread so it is more stain resistant, then brushing the antique finish on after shaping/boning the holster?

[particle]

Stitching with the Boss - and was told you can't wax the thread because it'll gum up the system.

[pete]

A customer requested that I antique the tooling on a holster I'm building him (similar to the following photo). The one I'm building for the customer will be light brown with natural thread color. I typically dye the pieces first, then assemble. I'm trying to figure out the best way to apply the antique, while hopefully preserving the thread's natural/white appearance. I'll need to apply satin sheen to the dyed pieces, then antique, then satin sheen again. Obviously this will make it hard to absorb water... Should I just build the holster like normal, then antique the whole thing (thread and all) before the final sealers and finish coats?

I suppose I could build the thing, antique it, then rip the stitching out and hand stitch it, but I don't really consider this an option....

Do it like Luke said, but wet the flesh side as much as you want- it won't affect the tooling or the antique.

pete

[Denster]

Eric

Just a suggestion. You might try finishing your collar and sewing it on. Then to make your bend just wet the flesh side as it is the compression side and gives the most resistance to the bend. Glue and sew it then to mold use a sray bottle of water for the interior and a sponge for the exterior just going to the edge of the collar which you are not going to mold anyway. May take a little longer to get the right amount of moisture into the leather for molding but not that much. Just a thought.

[Bronson]

You could always tell the customer "no", or charge him such a ridiculously high up-charge for the extra work that he decides not to have it done

Bronson

[troop]

first Particle let me say that i love your work. you have a great eye for making a holster look really nice. when i first started making holsters a year ago i did an antique prior to casing. and it did wash most of it off. once it was dry i antiqued it again and it came out kinda cheesy looking. i was however able to use a very small rag and only get the stain where i wanted it without getting it on the threads. i really wasn't very happy with how it came out, but i try to keep in mind i was using cheap single shoulder Tandy leather, and i think it was about the second or third holster i did. i know you are using H.O. and are doing really good work. your outcome may be different, and it could come out looking really nice. you might try applying the stain with a very small paint brush after it is all dried and molded letting the small amounts darken the areas you apply it to as it dries. however you do it, if you're not satisfied i would tell the customer that it just isn't going to work out like he wants it. i would hate to see you make a lesser product in trying to satisfy a customer. i too have had to tell people that sometimes things just can't be done well enough for my standards when they request something out of the ordinary. but i will always try it. good luck, and keep up the good work.

Tony

[JoshDuvall]

You seem to be in a bit of a pickle my friend...

Wish I could help but the only thing i could think of would be to make your holster as usual and after your first coat of acrylic or satin sheen or whatever you use before you antique would be to tape off the stitching with some blue painters tape or something and then go ahead and antique the tooled area then remove the tape. I don't know if it would work or not but its the only thing I could think off. Let us know how everything turns out and post pictures when you're done. Love your work by the way.

[particle]

Thanks for the help everyone. I started the process tonight - here is what I have found thus far for those that are interested.

I took a scrap pieces that was tooled with an early attempt at the pattern, and dyed it (actually dyed it last night) the same color my holster will be - Fiebing's Pro Light Brown. Then, I ran a stitch around the edge just like would be done with the holster. Then I applied two heavy coats of Satin Sheen to the tooled side - making sure to saturate the thread with each coat - and let it dry thoroughly in front of a fan. After it was dry, I wiped on the Antique I picked up from Tandy (Eco Flo stuff), then wiped it off and buffed it. The antique did slightly darken the leather - but it also darkened the thread and turned it a grayish color - it was Natural color to begin with. After the antique dried, I soaked it in a bowl of water until it was saturated with water - the antique held on very well...

So, I moved on to the actual pieces - 2 coats of Satin Sheen, then I'll antique each of the pieces before assembly. I'll probably have to be more gentle with the boning process - but mainly to make sure I don't rub off the Satin Sheen. If this whole fiasco ends up crashing in a ball of fire, I'll just tell the customer I can do it, but I'll have to use black thread - unless he's okay with gray thread... - that way I can build the holster like normal, then apply the antique at the end before the final sealer.

I'll post pics regardless of the outcome.

[BigRiverLeather]

I'm anxious to see the pictures.

Do I understand it correctly that you are going in this order -

Dye

Satin Sheen

Antique

Satin Sheen

Are you applying the Satin Sheen before you antique? Doesn't that block the antique completely or more than you want?

I don't know, that is why I am asking.

-Thread Drift Ahead -

I sometimes get a kick out of customers that want you to do something different, they have a million dollar idea that is going to make us rich beyond our wildest dreams (like the project Eric is working on) and because of that, and the fact that you are doing this for the first time, the customer thinks he should get this extra upgrade for little or nothing when in fact it takes so much of your time and you wonder how many times, if any, you will do it again.

On the other hand, there are plenty of customers that are more than happy to pay you for your time.

-End of Thread Drift-

[troop]

I'm anxious to see the pictures.

Do I understand it correctly that you are going in this order -

Dye

Satin Sheen

Antique

Satin Sheen

Are you applying the Satin Sheen before you antique? Doesn't that block the antique completely or more than you want?

I don't know, that is why I am asking.

-Thread Drift Ahead -

I sometimes get a kick out of customers that want you to do something different, they have a million dollar idea that is going to make us rich beyond our wildest dreams (like the project Eric is working on) and because of that, and the fact that you are doing this for the first time, the customer thinks he should get this extra upgrade for little or nothing when in fact it takes so much of your time and you wonder how many times, if any, you will do it again.

On the other hand, there are plenty of customers that are more than happy to pay you for your time.

-End of Thread Drift-

Amen to that Big River

[particle]

You're correct BRL - but I thought you were supposed to put a resist on the tooling to make the antique only settle into the tooling, but allow it to easily wipe away from the rest of the project? I applied antique to a clean, undyed piece of leather, and it took almost all of the antique color - it got very dark. Thus the resist (Satin Sheen).

You're right - this whole work-flow experimentation really eats into the productivity. Last night I put two coats of Satin Sheen on the pieces (after dying them first), then later I applied the antique. When I wiped off the antique, it streaked heavily. I hoped it would dry and disappear (hoping the streaking was simply from the moisture in the leather beneath the satin sheen), but the streaks never went away. So, I get to start over tonight. Doh!! I really have no fear that this can be done - but I think in the future applying antique to the tooling will be an up-charge of at least $10 simply for the additional steps of applying resist and the headache of altering the work-flow.

So, my tweaked workflow for antiquing will look something like this....

Cut new pieces

Transfer stitch lines, grooves and belt slot locations

Tool the appropriate leather piece(s)

Cut decorative grooves around edges

Dye pieces

Oil pieces (usually do this after baking, but can't since I'm about to apply satin sheen...)

Apply satin sheen (2 coats)

Antique

Burnish edges of reinforcement piece

Glue the reinforcement/tunnel piece on & stitch them together

Sand edges flush

Wet flesh side & fold & let dry

Glue & stitch closed

Sand edges flush

Burnish edges with water

Wet holster

Stamp with maker's mark

Form to gun

Bake in oven

Burnish edges with water again if necessary

Dye edges

Gum the interior

Gum edges

Two more coats of satin sheen

Final coat of resolene

Listen to my wife tell me I need to raise my prices

Edited June 9, 2010 by particle

[JoshDuvall]

I'm curious to know how your reinforcement piece took water after the 2 coats of resist and how well it formed after that? And I don't think your wife is the only one who thinks you need to go up on your prices. Your work is too good for those prices lol.

[Denster]

I'm curious to know how your reinforcement piece took water after the 2 coats of resist and how well it formed after that? And I don't think your wife is the only one who thinks you need to go up on your prices. Your work is too good for those prices lol.

I agree with Josh. Your basic pricing is ten to twenty dollars light from what would be fair for the quality you are delivering.