Need Workflow Advise

[particle]

Thanks for the help everyone. I started the process tonight - here is what I have found thus far for those that are interested.

I took a scrap pieces that was tooled with an early attempt at the pattern, and dyed it (actually dyed it last night) the same color my holster will be - Fiebing's Pro Light Brown. Then, I ran a stitch around the edge just like would be done with the holster. Then I applied two heavy coats of Satin Sheen to the tooled side - making sure to saturate the thread with each coat - and let it dry thoroughly in front of a fan. After it was dry, I wiped on the Antique I picked up from Tandy (Eco Flo stuff), then wiped it off and buffed it. The antique did slightly darken the leather - but it also darkened the thread and turned it a grayish color - it was Natural color to begin with. After the antique dried, I soaked it in a bowl of water until it was saturated with water - the antique held on very well...

So, I moved on to the actual pieces - 2 coats of Satin Sheen, then I'll antique each of the pieces before assembly. I'll probably have to be more gentle with the boning process - but mainly to make sure I don't rub off the Satin Sheen. If this whole fiasco ends up crashing in a ball of fire, I'll just tell the customer I can do it, but I'll have to use black thread - unless he's okay with gray thread... - that way I can build the holster like normal, then apply the antique at the end before the final sealer.

I'll post pics regardless of the outcome.

[BigRiverLeather]

I'm anxious to see the pictures.

Do I understand it correctly that you are going in this order -

Dye

Satin Sheen

Antique

Satin Sheen

Are you applying the Satin Sheen before you antique? Doesn't that block the antique completely or more than you want?

I don't know, that is why I am asking.

-Thread Drift Ahead -

I sometimes get a kick out of customers that want you to do something different, they have a million dollar idea that is going to make us rich beyond our wildest dreams (like the project Eric is working on) and because of that, and the fact that you are doing this for the first time, the customer thinks he should get this extra upgrade for little or nothing when in fact it takes so much of your time and you wonder how many times, if any, you will do it again.

On the other hand, there are plenty of customers that are more than happy to pay you for your time.

-End of Thread Drift-

[troop]

I'm anxious to see the pictures.

Do I understand it correctly that you are going in this order -

Dye

Satin Sheen

Antique

Satin Sheen

Are you applying the Satin Sheen before you antique? Doesn't that block the antique completely or more than you want?

I don't know, that is why I am asking.

-Thread Drift Ahead -

I sometimes get a kick out of customers that want you to do something different, they have a million dollar idea that is going to make us rich beyond our wildest dreams (like the project Eric is working on) and because of that, and the fact that you are doing this for the first time, the customer thinks he should get this extra upgrade for little or nothing when in fact it takes so much of your time and you wonder how many times, if any, you will do it again.

On the other hand, there are plenty of customers that are more than happy to pay you for your time.

-End of Thread Drift-

Amen to that Big River

[particle]

You're correct BRL - but I thought you were supposed to put a resist on the tooling to make the antique only settle into the tooling, but allow it to easily wipe away from the rest of the project? I applied antique to a clean, undyed piece of leather, and it took almost all of the antique color - it got very dark. Thus the resist (Satin Sheen).

You're right - this whole work-flow experimentation really eats into the productivity. Last night I put two coats of Satin Sheen on the pieces (after dying them first), then later I applied the antique. When I wiped off the antique, it streaked heavily. I hoped it would dry and disappear (hoping the streaking was simply from the moisture in the leather beneath the satin sheen), but the streaks never went away. So, I get to start over tonight. Doh!! I really have no fear that this can be done - but I think in the future applying antique to the tooling will be an up-charge of at least $10 simply for the additional steps of applying resist and the headache of altering the work-flow.

So, my tweaked workflow for antiquing will look something like this....

Cut new pieces

Transfer stitch lines, grooves and belt slot locations

Tool the appropriate leather piece(s)

Cut decorative grooves around edges

Dye pieces

Oil pieces (usually do this after baking, but can't since I'm about to apply satin sheen...)

Apply satin sheen (2 coats)

Antique

Burnish edges of reinforcement piece

Glue the reinforcement/tunnel piece on & stitch them together

Sand edges flush

Wet flesh side & fold & let dry

Glue & stitch closed

Sand edges flush

Burnish edges with water

Wet holster

Stamp with maker's mark

Form to gun

Bake in oven

Burnish edges with water again if necessary

Dye edges

Gum the interior

Gum edges

Two more coats of satin sheen

Final coat of resolene

Listen to my wife tell me I need to raise my prices

Edited June 9, 2010 by particle

[JoshDuvall]

I'm curious to know how your reinforcement piece took water after the 2 coats of resist and how well it formed after that? And I don't think your wife is the only one who thinks you need to go up on your prices. Your work is too good for those prices lol.

[Denster]

I'm curious to know how your reinforcement piece took water after the 2 coats of resist and how well it formed after that? And I don't think your wife is the only one who thinks you need to go up on your prices. Your work is too good for those prices lol.

I agree with Josh. Your basic pricing is ten to twenty dollars light from what would be fair for the quality you are delivering.