funnygirl62221 Report post Posted June 8, 2010 Hi all, I was inspired to try and make some mocs by the ones in the gallery right now. I have some 'how to' questions What kind of leather is good for mocs? What do I put on the bottom so they are not too slippery if I use cowhide? Do I have to use suede? Thanks! I am constantly scouring this site for information and appreciate all you craftmasters have to say! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leatherimages Report post Posted June 9, 2010 Hi you funny girl you, Thank you for being inspired by the mocs I did and posted for my Grandaughter. I used 6-7 oz. milled veg tooling leather from Wickett and Craig, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for a couple of reasons, which I can expound upon if interested. A 4-5 or 6-7 oz. chrome tanned leather would be much better. In fact there are some suppliers who sell leather specificly for Moccasins, such a Goliger Leather http://www.goligerle...r.com/chap.html . But really any chrome chap leather of sufficient weight will serve. I'd also recommend staying away from split leathers, too weak. For soles, you're local shoe repair shop should be willing to cut you off a chunk of 'sole gaurd' material. It's about 1/16" thick and comes in big 36" sq. sheets if you want the whole magilla. Super traction, it comes in neutral(or brack) and oak, such as I used on Gracie's. And as you can tell, it can be sewn, but you might need to keep your needle waxed with parrifin. Take a long stitch on your machine (maybe about7 or 8 spi., it can be hand sewn too of course. Plan it out, make a heavy paper pattern, sometimes canvas is a good pattern test, but be prepared to make a few before you begin to feel good about the pattern's functionality. For example, you may have seen the picture of the sole, which also shows how the heel tab is extending beyond the heelward edge of the sole piece. Not good. I'm sure when I see these next, later this year, it'll be confirmed to me that I should have made it that much longer. But that heel design is also part of the draw back of this pattern. A more stable counter, that won't collapse, is a good step, so to speek, toward a good pattern. Get all the books you can on the subject, (there's not alot). Have fun. Think it out. And remember, it's not brain surgery, (but a brain surgeon couldn't do it). As I said, for these I ordered the (I think they're called) Little Scout Mocs, and just changed the margin at the stitch holes for hand sewing, then I used an awl to punch my own. But with this design you must make sure you have an equal number on the plug as you do on the vamp, you'll see what I mean. I hope it's not too much information at first. Let me know if you'd like further explainations. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
funnygirl62221 Report post Posted June 9, 2010 Hi you funny girl you, Thank you for being inspired by the mocs I did and posted for my Grandaughter. I used 6-7 oz. milled veg tooling leather from Wickett and Craig, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for a couple of reasons, which I can expound upon if interested. A 4-5 or 6-7 oz. chrome tanned leather would be much better. In fact there are some suppliers who sell leather specificly for Moccasins, such a Goliger Leather http://www.goligerle...r.com/chap.html . But really any chrome chap leather of sufficient weight will serve. I'd also recommend staying away from split leathers, too weak. For soles, you're local shoe repair shop should be willing to cut you off a chunk of 'sole gaurd' material. It's about 1/16" thick and comes in big 36" sq. sheets if you want the whole magilla. Super traction, it comes in neutral(or brack) and oak, such as I used on Gracie's. And as you can tell, it can be sewn, but you might need to keep your needle waxed with parrifin. Take a long stitch on your machine (maybe about7 or 8 spi., it can be hand sewn too of course. Plan it out, make a heavy paper pattern, sometimes canvas is a good pattern test, but be prepared to make a few before you begin to feel good about the pattern's functionality. For example, you may have seen the picture of the sole, which also shows how the heel tab is extending beyond the heelward edge of the sole piece. Not good. I'm sure when I see these next, later this year, it'll be confirmed to me that I should have made it that much longer. But that heel design is also part of the draw back of this pattern. A more stable counter, that won't collapse, is a good step, so to speek, toward a good pattern. Get all the books you can on the subject, (there's not alot). Have fun. Think it out. And remember, it's not brain surgery, (but a brain surgeon couldn't do it). As I said, for these I ordered the (I think they're called) Little Scout Mocs, and just changed the margin at the stitch holes for hand sewing, then I used an awl to punch my own. But with this design you must make sure you have an equal number on the plug as you do on the vamp, you'll see what I mean. I hope it's not too much information at first. Let me know if you'd like further explainations. Thanks, Paul :D I am a sponge for information...hehe...I appreciate you taking the time to respond and will have more questions in the next few weeks. I have to make a couple dog collars this weekend but am really looking forward to starting on the mocs. I just happen to have a nice sized chunk of chrome tanned leather left over from a laptop case I made that should work. What kind of leather did u use around the top edge of the slippers? and what did you line them with? suede? Is veg tanned leather too stiff for mocs? Ellen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leatherimages Report post Posted June 9, 2010 (edited) Ellen, funny;-) The purple around the top edges is goat, I think it came from Garlin Neuman. They are lined with a chrome lining we use alot for boot vamps. I believe GN has that too. Yeah, I suppose you'd say the veg is too stiff. Certainly it's too stiff if it's not milled. Milled is when they tumble it in huge vats. It comes out as raggy as chap leather, but it firms up when cased and modeled. So to work it I had to keep it cased and damp. I had to keep working it onto the plug, gathering the pipes in close. I did put a 45 degree angle on the edge, that helped it close up some, but it was still a challenge. I had to think of something to get a firm enough pink with what I had for my little doodle. So I mixed up a stain and went for it. Edited June 9, 2010 by Leatherimages Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites