Relining Skirts

[horsewreck]

Jeff,

I think the dextrin and the wheat paste are very similar. I think the wallpaper paste may have mold inhibitors in it. I've only heard the older makers refer to it as wheat paste anyway. Bob Marrs in Amarillo is the one that recommended it to me, so I know that it has been proven.

Thanks,

Aermotor

Aermotor, I guess I will have to get some wallpaper paste and do a side by side test with the dextrin. I like to mix dextrin the day before I need it, because it always has lumps in it when I make a fresh batch, but let it sit overnight and it's pretty and smooth ready to go. Sometimes I will hold some for several days in an air tight jar, but it will start to mold after a few days. Knowing Bob Marrs has used it, says to me that it has merit. Thanks for the feedback..... Jeff

[gtwister09]

Bruce,

For some odd reason this one made it past me.

In reviewing some of the responses in the older saddlemaker's interviewing/project, I have run across several that are using dextrin and a couple that had changed to wallpaper paste. Most of the comments that I got concerning the dextrin were either that was the way they were taught or it was already on hand. Most of them used it for the undercut swells even if they didn't use it for the woolskins. Several of these guys really didn't pay attention to how well the dextrin held up because they were more concerned with getting them loose to replace them. A couple of them thought that the dextrin held it for a while and then broke loose which made it easy to replace woolskins. In fact the majority of them said most of theirs were "mostly" loose when they came in to be relined. To them it made the relining job easier by not having to work to remove the woolskins.

However the wallpaper paste ones said that they were sticking pretty well after many years and some steam would loosen them right up. They were pretty happy with the results and yes they liked the fact that it wouldn't mold (both commented on that fact).

Regards,

Ben

[bdt46]

I started making saddles in the mid 1960's, and it was still fairly common to use dextrin or cellulose paste to keep the woolskins in place on skirts. But as earlier posts have stated , there was the problem of the wool coming loose later. Sometime after being wet the woolskins could stretch and become loose on the skirts. So now I use rubber cement on both new and repair linings. I still use dextrin paste on swell covers, horn covers and back cantle covers. To stop molding of the paste, I add a spoonful of rubbing alchohol, and use an airtight container. Seems to keep for a prolonged period of time without any mold forming.

[gtwister09]

bdt46,

I have used Listerine as well for a mold inhibitor in dextrine as well.

Regards,

Ben

[hidepounder]

Bruce,

Thanks for the great topic! I'm glad you started this because it's something I've been wondering about. I was in a shop a few months ago and watched a saddlemaker reline a pair of skirts with new woolskin using Masters cement. I wondered at the time about how you'd ever get it off again. I wasn't about to ask of course and I think I'll keep this saddlemakers identity to myself, but I have often wondered if that was a bad deal. My personal experience with Barge and Masters is that it doesn't break down, but maybe that's not true. Anyway, I noticed that no one claimed to use a contact cement on re-lines which basically answered my question about the job I watched a couple of months ago. Thoughts?

Bobby

[Billy H]

Hey Guys,

What a great place to sit with a cup of Joe!

I am a rookie with only 4 saddles under my belt, so when I comment I want that up front.

It seems to me and also it was the way I was taught, when building a saddle-- build it to last not to build for easy repair. ( Hope that does not come across wrong )

I might look at things differently if I start reparing more often though.

40 years ago my Dad bought me a Ted Aldal saddle, what a great saddle, built to last! Now it needs new wool. I will not mind taking a little extra time with getting the old stuff off.

I figure I will use contact cement like on a new one.

Again a rookie-- Why is wall Paper paste good for swell covers and horn covers? Thanks Billy

[horsewreck]

Bruce,

Thanks for the great topic! I'm glad you started this because it's something I've been wondering about. I was in a shop a few months ago and watched a saddlemaker reline a pair of skirts with new woolskin using Masters cement. I wondered at the time about how you'd ever get it off again. I wasn't about to ask of course and I think I'll keep this saddlemakers identity to myself, but I have often wondered if that was a bad deal. My personal experience with Barge and Masters is that it doesn't break down, but maybe that's not true. Anyway, I noticed that no one claimed to use a contact cement on re-lines which basically answered my question about the job I watched a couple of months ago. Thoughts?

Bobby

Bobby, I have run in to more than a few saddles that have been relined using contact cement to hold the wool on. It does hold tight but can be peeled off to reline with some effort. In his 1982 book "Making and Repairing Western Saddles" Dave Jones directs the reader to use contact cement to put down the wool. I even recall one saddlemaker who said in his catalog, he used Epoxy to put his woolskins on. His reasoning was that neetsfoot oil would cause even contact cement to fail and let go. It seems to me that it would take a lot of oil to do that. Go figure!... Jeff

[Ken Nelson]

Bruce,

Thanks for the great topic! I'm glad you started this because it's something I've been wondering about. I was in a shop a few months ago and watched a saddlemaker reline a pair of skirts with new woolskin using Masters cement. I wondered at the time about how you'd ever get it off again. I wasn't about to ask of course and I think I'll keep this saddlemakers identity to myself, but I have often wondered if that was a bad deal. My personal experience with Barge and Masters is that it doesn't break down, but maybe that's not true. Anyway, I noticed that no one claimed to use a contact cement on re-lines which basically answered my question about the job I watched a couple of months ago. Thoughts?

Bobby

In my opinion, You are right on the mark with your observation. I use rubber cement on sheepskins both new and relines. I took a woolskin out that had been put in with contact a couple of years ago, what a JOB! Ken

[Hennessy]

Bruce,

Thanks for the great topic! I'm glad you started this because it's something I've been wondering about. I was in a shop a few months ago and watched a saddlemaker reline a pair of skirts with new woolskin using Masters cement. I wondered at the time about how you'd ever get it off again. I wasn't about to ask of course and I think I'll keep this saddlemakers identity to myself, but I have often wondered if that was a bad deal. My personal experience with Barge and Masters is that it doesn't break down, but maybe that's not true. Anyway, I noticed that no one claimed to use a contact cement on re-lines which basically answered my question about the job I watched a couple of months ago. Thoughts?

Bobby

for wot its worth! i had a boot n shoe repair business for 5 years back in early 80'z kinda helped me along untill my rodeo gear got goin.one neat trick out of th trade is how to unstick barge and masters or any rubber cement.,i've used it hundreds of times i'm sure,you must use rubber cement thinner nothing else in thinners,get a dauber or fake sheepskin wet it good with thinner i put it down on top side [backside if you can] skirting,whatever on old wool skirt liner start in a corner n lift enough to get a peel goin.give the thinner a few minutes to penetrate it'll surprise you on how easy it makes things go pete

[Saddlebag]

When i was in book/document repair/restoration we used a glue called Planatol. This is a white glue that resembles white carpenter's glue except Planatol is water soluble. It holds very well, and isn't real fast to set up. It can be thinned with water. Anything we did had to be undoable so Planatol was our choice. It's at any book repair supply house.