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Ken Nelson

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About Ken Nelson

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    saddles,tack and chaps

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18,948 profile views
  1. I am dropping the price on this machine to $2500.00, local pickup. These are a really versatile machine that are easy to work on if you ever need to, which is seldom. I do have the manual, and VCR instruction video for it and will go with.
  2. I have a lightly used Luberto's Classic for sale. This machine was bought new in 2005 and never had the head mounted until about 8 months ago. It has only had 8 saddles sewn on it. It works great. It has a stirrup plate, holster plate and drop down edge guide. It has the adjustable foot for zippers etc. You can set the presser foot to be behind the needle for sewing up close to buckles. Includes the speed reducer, clutch motor, stand, thread stand and LED light. It uses 328 series needles and 794 needles. I will throw in 2 packages of needles of you size choice. It is a jump foot-needle feed with a square feed. The stitches are the same in 2 layers of chap leather as an inch and these machines will sew an honest inch max. It is located in Wakefield, Kansas. This machine cost $8000.00 new. $2,750.00 Will deliver up to 200 miles for a fee.
  3. I think Bruce Johnson, Troy West and Keith Siedel covered this a couple of years ago in great fashion. You might to a search on it.
  4. That is extremely impressive for the first saddle. You done a very good job. I have been at it a long time and cannot fault your work at all and you will get better. As far as the wade tree goes and I may not be correct here but I have been told for along time the guy that brought them into oregon was named Cliff Wade and Tom Dorance liked it and had Hamely build him one using the Cliff Wade saddle for a base for it and using some of Mr. Dorance's improvements on it. If memory serves me correct, I think the original Wade Saddle was made in Illinois or Ohio where he was from. Don't know if any of this is true or not.
  5. I once saw a limb run under a very loose rear cinch and end up in a horses guts. Terrible thing to watch and the horse died an agonizing death. It probably won't happen if you ride in trees and brush but I know for a fact it can if your rear cinch is too loose.
  6. Does anyone know the value of a really good American B crank Skiver? One that has been reconditioned and a good job of it? Thanks Ken
  7. It is great to see some of these young guns, get so good so quick. It just goes to show there is no limit how far you can go with some natural talent and a LOT OF HARD WORK.
  8. How much to ship to Kansas 67487? I am interested.
  9. It is hard to imagine that is just your 3rd one. You have worked very hard to get to where you are at. My hat is off to you. Not many do that caliber of work by the 3rd one!
  10. If you pick up the needle end of a table machine, you release the tension of the belt and can slip it right off using a standard speed reducer. The box speed reducers are nice though.
  11. Panhandle Leather in Amarillo, TX has much higher quality leather than Tandy at much lower prices and Jim Blain's shipping is the best Rates I have found. And they get orders out quickly!
  12. You are absolutely right! I would be lost without my duck bills and lasting pliers.
  13. I use most of the method taught in Harry Adam's book to cover horns-the bottom and filler. One thing I do on it, is after I skive the cut out, I let the bottom piece dry and glue it with contact cement and rewet it before I put it on the saddle. I glue the horn, and install the bottom piece before the glue sets up. If I have the filler and and "cap piece ready, by the time they are installed, the glue will be ready to make a tight bond on the bottom piece. Let your choke strap set it tight against the bottom of your horn. Don't forget to tack your filler in place so the whole cover does not spin when someone dallies something heavy to it. I make my cut in the filler and bottom about a scant 1/8" narrower than the piece that goes in it. I also don't skive that part of the cap and wings very much. If you do, it will stretch and be too narrow to fill the cutout. I don't know if I do it right but counting all the horns I have recovered and new ones I have done, it is up over (and I am estimating here) 300 horns. I hope this helps someone a little bit. I hope I don't sound like I am being critical, I would like to help someone learn. I don't know about a lot of types of saddles but I do know a lot about working saddles. I build a lot of them and most of them go to some pretty darn good cowboys on very large ranches that use them hard. I don't advise anyone on pleasure, trail, cutting saddles or barrel saddles. I am not qualified to comment on constructing them. However, There are a number of people that will give you a lot of advice on building a working ranch saddle that are unqualified to comment on building them.
  14. I use a pair of lasting pliers to pull as much slack out of the wings as I can when I put the wraps on the horn. I tack them, ( leaving the tacks out a little so I can pull them) then I take my "choke strap", very wet and a lot of white saddle soap on it and pull the wrap tight. It is surprising the slack that the choke strap will pull out. I work on choking a horn wrap several times to make sure I get it to my satisfaction. Your notch on the rear of the horn is a bit too wide for your horn pattern. Your bottom piece is not pulled up against the bottom the horn tight enough on the second horn. I had the good luck to work for a great saddle maker when I first got started and he told me pretty quick to be really picky about how a horn looks. Everytime a rider looks down, he sees that horn. It is one of those things that shows a window to your workmanship. It won't make the saddle less usable but it is something a discriminating buyer has a problem with if it is not done well. It will get easier, and all of us go through the learning stages.
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