Jump to content

LatigoAmigo

Contributing Member
  • Content Count

    878
  • Joined

  • Last visited

4 Followers

About LatigoAmigo

  • Rank
    Leatherworker

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
  • Interests
    Graphic Design, Computer Software

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Laser cutting, Horween leathers

Recent Profile Visitors

8,408 profile views
  1. Neoprene is working for me. It is readily available from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BKP6KFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It comes in 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 inch thickness.
  2. I would check the source of that. I have been using a 100 watt laser for a few years now, and here is my opinion on the matter: Acrylic templates? Yes. Acrylic leather stamps? No.
  3. Neither have I. Found this at britannica.com. "Mineral tanning, which uses mineral salts, produces a soft, pliable leather and is the preferred method for producing most light leathers. Use of this method can shorten the tanning period to days or even hours. Chromium salt is the most widely used mineral agent, but salts from aluminum and zirconium are also used. In mineral tanning the hides are soaked in saline baths of increasing strength or in acidic baths in which chemical reactions deposit salts in the skin fibers." Because of the use of chromium salt, some might consider a leather given this treatment to be considered chrome tanned, but that being said, combination tanning where the leather is both veg tanned and chrome tanned is fairly common when there is a need to resist moisture, such as with latigo leather.
  4. First off, my comments are intended to provide you with helpful feedback, so no offence intended. Since watchstraps are so tiny, everything you do must be "perfect." Only use the highest quality leather. Anything less is not your friend. Some of the edges look very rough. You want a more finished look. The edge finish should not bleed onto the surface of the leather. The holes for the buckle's tongue should be clean and uniform. Some of the stitching is out of alignment with the edge. Some of the thread is too heavy. Exotic leathers can fight with the design. Hope that helps.
  5. That's a legitimate concern. The craftsmanship is okay, but the look is not very sophisticated.
  6. Saddle making is a highly skilled art. You typically don't start your leatherworking journey there, as there are many materials and tools you will need to be familiar with, and skills you must learn. If you are serious about building these two saddles, you might look into apprenticing with a saddle maker.
  7. I couldn't help but smile when you posted this. I bought most of my tools over 50 years ago and they are still working fine. I have never used an exacto knife on leather. They are not heavy enough. I use a "break-point" utility knife. -- no savings Instead of a ruler, pick up a piece of aluminum stock 1/2" x 48" from Home Depot. -- savings $5 A scratch awl is nice but you can file down a nail and get most of the same results. -- savings $4 A quarter instead of washers. -- savings $9.75 I have a stitching pony, but it has such limited use that I have never used it. So I'd say save your money. -- savings $120 I have a slicker, but as above, it has limited use. To smooth an edge us a piece of old Levis jeans or a scrap of canvas. -- savings $10 You should be able to pick up a nylon headed hammer on Amazon for around $15. -- savings $60 Total savings = $203.75
  8. I wouldn't say crazy, but maybe overly optimistic. But that, in and of itself, is not a bad thing.
  9. You will find that because of the varying types of leather and tanning processes, considering thickness to allow for bends or folds depends on the nature of the leather being used. You will learn through experience that generally a thicker more supple leather will bend and fold much like a thinner stiffer leather, so they could call for the same allowances. Another example is when using veg tanned leather. A dampened leather will bend and fold much easier than when it's dry, so that has to be taken into consideration. A lot can be learned through books, but experience provides us with the best lessons.
  10. There are ways to reduce the size of photos somewhere on this site. One simple way, if it might work for you, is to send them to yourself on your cell phone, where you are given the option to send them in a smaller size. Of course there are various apps to do the same. It would be a shame for your hard work not to be posted here for all to see.
  11. @Mustangdave The preferred way to post images on this site is not to use links but to post the images themselves. Links can get "unlinked" over time.
  12. I don't think this kind of appeal belongs in "Show Off." You might ask to have it re-posted in "Leatherwork Conversation."
  13. Well, that's a happy thought.
  14. Digital technology was not available when I started doing leather over 50 years ago, but when drawing software came out about 30 years ago, I really embraced it. With drawing programs and assorted computer driven machinery I can do more and better work than I ever imagined. But you don't have to own this stuff, you can access it by joining what is called a "maker space", and use their equipment. Of course, you have to be fortunate enough to have one nearby. Some community colleges also own this equipment, plus they offer training in this technology. It looks like the future to me.
  15. I guess what I meant to say was that one could cut the die out of acrylic or plexiglass in about 30 seconds on a 100 watt laser, then use the die over and over. But I can certainly see the advantages of the 3D printed die. A great option if you have access to one.
×
×
  • Create New...