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Everything posted by LatigoAmigo

  1. Using its hooks, I stretch out a bungee cord across my shop. Then I stitch the seams of the handle together over that core. When I unhook the bungee cord it relaxes and fills up the leather tube, resulting in a firm yet flexible handle with even pressure everywhere.
  2. Exclusively. I not only cut the leather but also the lacing holes. You will have to deal with some residue from the laser such as soot on the surface and burnt edges, but I've found several work-arounds, so it hasn't been a problem for me.
  3. That is amazing, I would never have imagined. I don't think my wife would want me to dry wet leather in her oven, however, so I probably won't ever get to try this. Thank you for sharing.
  4. That sounds interesting... how do you think the heat is applied to the sole of this moccasin?
  5. You can use a clothes iron, just don't use the steam feature.
  6. You might try The Hide House. They carry a wide variety of soft temper leather, not only in multiple colors but also in multiple weights and textures. https://www.hidehouse.com/
  7. I favor the variable-speed cordless Dremel, model 8220, and use burnishing tips I found on Amazon. I use it in conjunction with Tokonole burnishing gum, and am very happy with the results.
  8. In my experience, it looks like Tandy Leather stores could be franchises. That might make it hard for them to have the consistency of company owned operations.
  9. That peace will be short lived when these links no longer work. On this site it is preferred that actual images are posted, and links are discouraged.
  10. You might check out Belt Grade California Latigo from The Hide House. It is has a firm finish and is very durable. https://www.hidehouse.com/Leather/Belt-Grade-California-Latigo-Cow-Full-Grain-Retan-Finish-CLYE45-P.asp
  11. I can't be much help here, but curious about your budget. A custom made leather jacket, with all the necessary fittings, finishes, lining, etc., could run into quite a bit of time. What is your price ceiling? You don't really have to answer, just curious.
  12. You might try The Hide House. I can't speak to the quality as I've never used metallic leather, but they do carry it. Some are referred to as "foil" and others as pigmented. The best thing to do is to call and talk to them before you purchase. https://www.hidehouse.com/pc_combined_results.asp?search_prod=(searchlike~p.sku~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.nm~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.ds~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.search_terms~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.child_rollup_search_terms~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.child_colors~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield1~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield2~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield3~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield4~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield5~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield6~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield7~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield8~metallic|Or|searchlike~ child_skus~metallic)&search_keyword=metallic
  13. So true... very important. But I have yet to figure out how to eliminate the "char" on the edges of where the laser slices through the leather. I've used various means to clean it up, but have never been able to avoid it.
  14. From Weaver Leather Supply. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6075/glue-brush-can-complete-with/pr_43123/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/adhesives
  15. I must admit that mine could be out of adjustment, one of my big challenges. It's a home-made laser, and has a few "issues." Is yours a CO2 or a diode laser... big difference. I've considered upgrading, but I got my machine at bargain basement pricing. And what type of leather are you cutting? I know I'm not supposed to, but I cut mostly chrome-tanned leather (I do use a fume extractor), some of which is considered "stuffed." It weeps oil and is a real challenge to laser-cut.
  16. Did you seal the paint with anything? After applying stain or paint, any people here seal the leather with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene Leather Finish. There are other options, so maybe someone will chime in with their favorites.
  17. Had I received what you did, I would contact the seller right away to see what they could do to remedy the problem. They probably don't want to lose your business. My two favorite suppliers are The Hide House in Napa, CA, and Maverick Leather in Bend, OR.
  18. This may be out of your reach due to your location, but Campbell-Randall in Texas carries clicker mats in various sizes. I don't have a clicker, but use one of theirs for punching. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/clickers-presses
  19. In the his 1950 book Leather Braiding by Bruce Grant, he refers to this as a "Stairstep Applique of One Thong."
  20. Post a picture so we can see what this looks like. Also, what type of paint did you use?
  21. For about $10 you can buy the book on Amazon that inspired me and opened the doors to doing leatherwork over the last 50 years. By Bruce Grant, it is simply called "Leather Braiding." A great place to start. https://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Braiding-Book-6022-00/dp/087033039X/ref=pd_lpo_14_t_2/145-1872454-7290226?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=087033039X&pd_rd_r=ccc71bae-2187-442e-a331-e0cdd39da7cb&pd_rd_w=qiYp5&pd_rd_wg=aWXHn&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=WD965AMQZBR1RAZPY2BH&psc=1&refRID=WD965AMQZBR1RAZPY2BH
  22. I know that people on this forum have expressed concern about cutting leathers that have been tanned with chromium salts. I cut and engrave chrome-tanned and latigo leathers with a laser cutter, so to address those concerns I've invested in a fume extraction system. So far, so good. It gets rid of the burnt leather smell too.
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