LatigoAmigo

I have an idea... maybe you should buy a banner ad on this website to promote your product. That way many more people will see it.

Maybe you should give the pro version a try. According to their website, "Fiebing’s Pro Dye is our premium leather dye that is more color fast, offers more vivid colors and is less likely to fade over time in sunlight. You choose which dye is right for your project."

I looked at an older version of Adobe Illustrator (CS4 from 2008), and see that you can view the width and height of the pattern in the "transform" window. From there you could simply type in those dimensions somewhere on the pattern, like across the bottom of the page. Does that make sense?

Found this info on the web (bestleather.org) and thought you might find it interesting: "Latigo leather is both durable and pliable, making it suitable for rigorous activities and applications with rough usage. It is resistant to moisture and sweat, due to the high amounts of oil it is infused with during manufacture. As a result of this oil infusion, and the process of partial chrome tanning and partial vegetable tanning, latigo is more rigid than full chrome-tanned leather but less rigid than vegetable tanned leather. Due to the heavier weight and tanning process, latigo is more costly than most other cow leathers. It is not stretchy and goes from rigid to supple and soft in a short time."

I tried several different filtration systems before I found this fume extractor. Now there is no smoke or odor at all. Not cheap, but the healthiest option I could find.

I think you need to mold it before sewing it together. Like you, I use a laser to cut leather, but have never considered making a molded holster because, from what I understand, you are supposed to sew the seams together after you have form fitted the leather around the gun. When you sew the holster together before molding the leather, you won't be able to achieve the snug fit you're looking for. So, wet it, mold it and let it dry; then assemble, trim, bevel, sand and coat the edges. Hope that helps.

I had no idea what it was you were looking for, but the video that @bland posted really helped me understand.

@Spyros Why do people say "handmade"? Because it is a handy marketing term that implies quality construction with attention to detail.

This book, "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding" by Bruce Grant, shows how to braid many types of reins. Could be helpful to your search. Encyclopedia_of_Rawhide_and_Leather_Braiding.pdf

A picture would help.

Hey @Connee, did you see this thread? You might find it informational.

My take is that the leather is especially soft where the thread is pushing against it. Could this piece of the hide have been cut from the belly section?

I'm not sure, but it could have to do with the file format used with your first post here, which shows four .jfif files. For this site, the preferred file format is .jpg. When I want to display an image I simply drag it over from my desktop and that attaches it to my post.

@Connee You might get a better response from the Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair subsection of this forum (which you will find in the Saddles and Tack section). When you look around that section you will find members who display quite a bit of knowledge about the history of saddles. You can reach out to them from there. Good luck.

Don't let my wife see it or she will want one too. Very nice indeed.

Look at the top of the page and visit any of the leather suppliers advertising here. Maverick Leather is one of my favorites, but there are more. If you call any of them, tell them that you are just getting into the craft, and would like some inexpensive hides or any remnants they might have available. Sometimes you can buy bags of scraps from which you can start any number of projects. Good luck.

Links don't always get a good response, so I'm posting your photos. That looks like very soft leather, almost like lambskin. Good for liners (think BDSM cuffs), but not much else.

You might check out The Hide House, as they carry quite a range of latigo. With a request like this, best to give them a call. You might also try Maverick Leather, as they carry a lot of seconds. https://www.hidehouse.com/ https://maverickleathercompany.com/

It will help if you can post a picture of the snap in question.

"nuff said.

We all have different approaches, and offer a myriad of advice. What I would add is that over the years I've upgraded from Exacto knives to a "break-point" utility knife. The blade is always sharp and is heavier that the Exacto blade. That helps, especially on heavier leathers. Then I use a straightedge made from a piece of 1/8" aluminum stock from Home Depot, cut down to 48". Then, when I can't make any mistakes, I will use C-clamps to press the straightedge against the leather hide on my bench. With both hands free, I can do a better job of keeping the blade from wandering.

I found this in the reviews for this product (on Amazon): "My son dropped two Crayola markers in a new leather bag and it soaked all the way through to the front of the leather. I started to use this cleaner and noticed it fading the leather more than the ink, so I stopped. So, if you mean removing dye for leather (to lighten it), I think it will do a decent job, if you mean another kind of stain ON the leather, it might change the surrounding color more than you'd like."

The price shown in your search is the case price (note the weight... 53 pounds). For the size I mentioned the cost is just under $100 for 104 sheets. I was introduced to this product at a local art supply store where I was able to buy single sheets.

I use Marsh Oiled Stencil Board which can be found at art supply stores. It comes in sheets as large as 24"x36", and is very durable.

I'm not a Facebook user, and this Facebook page is not set up to be viewed by the public. Is there a way to open it up for all to see?