LatigoAmigo

I have pondered this question for a long time, and my solution is to line my bags with leather. Usually horse front, sometimes goat, sometimes lamb. It depends on what color choices I have, but more importantly, what kind of pocket I build into the lining. My favorite leather for lining is horse fronts that I get from Maverick Leather, as the material is thin yet sturdy. The only issue is that the colors are somewhat limited, so then I look to the goat (next best), then to lamb (which is sometimes too soft/supple). And, if it is relevant, I only make bags, and all of my liners are "drop-in".

I've had this happen to me, and found that treating the leather with a liquid saddle soap can help. I used Farnam Leather New Saddle Soap Foam that I ordered from Amazon. Rub it in real good using your fingers, and wipe it off with a clean and dry micro-fiber cloth. Repeat until the cloth quits picking up the color.

I only use chrome-tanned leathers, so the edges are more of a challenge than veg-tanned leathers. Mirror-like shines do not exist in my world.

I've used my fingers but it can get a little messy, so I usually use foam tipped cleaning swabs (that I get from Amazon) to lay down the first layer (I usually apply three layers).

Nice thread @Danne. I had been giving thought to using a magic marker to apply color to my edges, but felt the available colors too limiting. Plus, I wondered if the water based colors used in magic markers might not hold up over time. Then, while visiting an art store, I found these refillable markers which can be used with any alcohol based dyes. Have been very happy with the results.

Oh yea.

Using its hooks, I stretch out a bungee cord across my shop. Then I stitch the seams of the handle together over that core. When I unhook the bungee cord it relaxes and fills up the leather tube, resulting in a firm yet flexible handle with even pressure everywhere.

Exclusively. I not only cut the leather but also the lacing holes. You will have to deal with some residue from the laser such as soot on the surface and burnt edges, but I've found several work-arounds, so it hasn't been a problem for me.

A laser cutter will work...

That is amazing, I would never have imagined. I don't think my wife would want me to dry wet leather in her oven, however, so I probably won't ever get to try this. Thank you for sharing.

That sounds interesting... how do you think the heat is applied to the sole of this moccasin?

You can use a clothes iron, just don't use the steam feature.

You might try The Hide House. They carry a wide variety of soft temper leather, not only in multiple colors but also in multiple weights and textures. https://www.hidehouse.com/

I favor the variable-speed cordless Dremel, model 8220, and use burnishing tips I found on Amazon. I use it in conjunction with Tokonole burnishing gum, and am very happy with the results.

In my experience, it looks like Tandy Leather stores could be franchises. That might make it hard for them to have the consistency of company owned operations.

That peace will be short lived when these links no longer work. On this site it is preferred that actual images are posted, and links are discouraged.

You might check out Belt Grade California Latigo from The Hide House. It is has a firm finish and is very durable. https://www.hidehouse.com/Leather/Belt-Grade-California-Latigo-Cow-Full-Grain-Retan-Finish-CLYE45-P.asp

I can't be much help here, but curious about your budget. A custom made leather jacket, with all the necessary fittings, finishes, lining, etc., could run into quite a bit of time. What is your price ceiling? You don't really have to answer, just curious.

You might try The Hide House. I can't speak to the quality as I've never used metallic leather, but they do carry it. Some are referred to as "foil" and others as pigmented. The best thing to do is to call and talk to them before you purchase. https://www.hidehouse.com/pc_combined_results.asp?search_prod=(searchlike~p.sku~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.nm~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.ds~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.search_terms~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.child_rollup_search_terms~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.child_colors~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield1~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield2~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield3~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield4~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield5~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield6~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield7~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield8~metallic|Or|searchlike~ child_skus~metallic)&search_keyword=metallic

So true... very important. But I have yet to figure out how to eliminate the "char" on the edges of where the laser slices through the leather. I've used various means to clean it up, but have never been able to avoid it.

From Weaver Leather Supply. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6075/glue-brush-can-complete-with/pr_43123/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/adhesives

Does it look like this?

I must admit that mine could be out of adjustment, one of my big challenges. It's a home-made laser, and has a few "issues." Is yours a CO2 or a diode laser... big difference. I've considered upgrading, but I got my machine at bargain basement pricing. And what type of leather are you cutting? I know I'm not supposed to, but I cut mostly chrome-tanned leather (I do use a fume extractor), some of which is considered "stuffed." It weeps oil and is a real challenge to laser-cut.

Did you seal the paint with anything? After applying stain or paint, any people here seal the leather with Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene Leather Finish. There are other options, so maybe someone will chime in with their favorites.

Had I received what you did, I would contact the seller right away to see what they could do to remedy the problem. They probably don't want to lose your business. My two favorite suppliers are The Hide House in Napa, CA, and Maverick Leather in Bend, OR.