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LatigoAmigo

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Everything posted by LatigoAmigo

  1. I think they are talking about this...
  2. Some email programs allow you to reduce the size of the image when you send it, then you simply send the smaller image to yourself.
  3. @TomG Could this be what you are looking for? https://www.buckleguy.com/rv1115-double-cap-rivet-cap-11mm-post-15mm-natural-brass-solid-brass-ll-100-sets-per-bag/
  4. Simple, elegant, small... but will it sell? The questions that come to mind are: Since the bag is so small, what will it hold? Because the bag has such a soft closure, how do you keep it from inadvertently opening and exposing/spilling the contents? That strap looks pretty vulnerable too. How do you keep it from sliding down the arm? Or from coming open and falling off? Nice idea and great execution, but looks like a hard sell.
  5. I have pondered this question for a long time, and my solution is to line my bags with leather. Usually horse front, sometimes goat, sometimes lamb. It depends on what color choices I have, but more importantly, what kind of pocket I build into the lining. My favorite leather for lining is horse fronts that I get from Maverick Leather, as the material is thin yet sturdy. The only issue is that the colors are somewhat limited, so then I look to the goat (next best), then to lamb (which is sometimes too soft/supple). And, if it is relevant, I only make bags, and all of my liners are "drop-in".
  6. I've had this happen to me, and found that treating the leather with a liquid saddle soap can help. I used Farnam Leather New Saddle Soap Foam that I ordered from Amazon. Rub it in real good using your fingers, and wipe it off with a clean and dry micro-fiber cloth. Repeat until the cloth quits picking up the color.
  7. I only use chrome-tanned leathers, so the edges are more of a challenge than veg-tanned leathers. Mirror-like shines do not exist in my world.
  8. I've used my fingers but it can get a little messy, so I usually use foam tipped cleaning swabs (that I get from Amazon) to lay down the first layer (I usually apply three layers).
  9. Nice thread @Danne. I had been giving thought to using a magic marker to apply color to my edges, but felt the available colors too limiting. Plus, I wondered if the water based colors used in magic markers might not hold up over time. Then, while visiting an art store, I found these refillable markers which can be used with any alcohol based dyes. Have been very happy with the results.
  10. Using its hooks, I stretch out a bungee cord across my shop. Then I stitch the seams of the handle together over that core. When I unhook the bungee cord it relaxes and fills up the leather tube, resulting in a firm yet flexible handle with even pressure everywhere.
  11. Exclusively. I not only cut the leather but also the lacing holes. You will have to deal with some residue from the laser such as soot on the surface and burnt edges, but I've found several work-arounds, so it hasn't been a problem for me.
  12. A laser cutter will work...
  13. That is amazing, I would never have imagined. I don't think my wife would want me to dry wet leather in her oven, however, so I probably won't ever get to try this. Thank you for sharing.
  14. That sounds interesting... how do you think the heat is applied to the sole of this moccasin?
  15. You can use a clothes iron, just don't use the steam feature.
  16. You might try The Hide House. They carry a wide variety of soft temper leather, not only in multiple colors but also in multiple weights and textures. https://www.hidehouse.com/
  17. I favor the variable-speed cordless Dremel, model 8220, and use burnishing tips I found on Amazon. I use it in conjunction with Tokonole burnishing gum, and am very happy with the results.
  18. In my experience, it looks like Tandy Leather stores could be franchises. That might make it hard for them to have the consistency of company owned operations.
  19. That peace will be short lived when these links no longer work. On this site it is preferred that actual images are posted, and links are discouraged.
  20. You might check out Belt Grade California Latigo from The Hide House. It is has a firm finish and is very durable. https://www.hidehouse.com/Leather/Belt-Grade-California-Latigo-Cow-Full-Grain-Retan-Finish-CLYE45-P.asp
  21. I can't be much help here, but curious about your budget. A custom made leather jacket, with all the necessary fittings, finishes, lining, etc., could run into quite a bit of time. What is your price ceiling? You don't really have to answer, just curious.
  22. You might try The Hide House. I can't speak to the quality as I've never used metallic leather, but they do carry it. Some are referred to as "foil" and others as pigmented. The best thing to do is to call and talk to them before you purchase. https://www.hidehouse.com/pc_combined_results.asp?search_prod=(searchlike~p.sku~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.nm~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.ds~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.search_terms~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.child_rollup_search_terms~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.child_colors~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield1~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield2~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield3~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield4~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield5~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield6~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield7~metallic|Or|searchlike~ p.searchfield8~metallic|Or|searchlike~ child_skus~metallic)&search_keyword=metallic
  23. So true... very important. But I have yet to figure out how to eliminate the "char" on the edges of where the laser slices through the leather. I've used various means to clean it up, but have never been able to avoid it.
  24. From Weaver Leather Supply. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6075/glue-brush-can-complete-with/pr_43123/cp_/shop-now/leather-care/adhesives
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