LatigoAmigo

We all have different approaches, and offer a myriad of advice. What I would add is that over the years I've upgraded from Exacto knives to a "break-point" utility knife. The blade is always sharp and is heavier that the Exacto blade. That helps, especially on heavier leathers. Then I use a straightedge made from a piece of 1/8" aluminum stock from Home Depot, cut down to 48". Then, when I can't make any mistakes, I will use C-clamps to press the straightedge against the leather hide on my bench. With both hands free, I can do a better job of keeping the blade from wandering.

I found this in the reviews for this product (on Amazon): "My son dropped two Crayola markers in a new leather bag and it soaked all the way through to the front of the leather. I started to use this cleaner and noticed it fading the leather more than the ink, so I stopped. So, if you mean removing dye for leather (to lighten it), I think it will do a decent job, if you mean another kind of stain ON the leather, it might change the surrounding color more than you'd like."

The price shown in your search is the case price (note the weight... 53 pounds). For the size I mentioned the cost is just under $100 for 104 sheets. I was introduced to this product at a local art supply store where I was able to buy single sheets.

I use Marsh Oiled Stencil Board which can be found at art supply stores. It comes in sheets as large as 24"x36", and is very durable.

I'm not a Facebook user, and this Facebook page is not set up to be viewed by the public. Is there a way to open it up for all to see?

@ChayaRo I can only wish you good luck.

I'd like to chime in here... I picked up a piece of aluminum bar stock 1/8" x 4" x 96" (Home Depot) and cut it down to 72". It's an inexpensive option, and what I especially like is the sheer weight and mass help keep it in place.

I think that you have a permanent stain. If you try to remove or even just lighten it you might damage the surrounding leather. My suggestion would be, instead, to darken the leather. Clean the leather with Lexol Leather Cleaner, then apply a layer of Dark Brown Fiebings Antique Paste with a microfiber cloth. Apply a thin coat, and rubbing it in with a circular motion using a microfiber cloth. Let the finish dry overnight, then buff with a shoe brush. Repeat the process if you want a darker color.

You will find that different types of leather call for different storage methods. I have mostly firm chrome tanned leather which I roll up and store in a dark, dry space. I have a few veg-tan hides that I keep rolled up in butcher paper so that the surface does not age irregularly. I hang some of my softer leathers (goat, pig, deer, garment) on some hooks, again in a dark, dry space. Some people store their hides rolled-up in PCV tubes, and others store them flat. I have to add that I roll the hides with the grain on the inside so that color does not get exposed. Then I can more comfortably stack them on top of each other.

Not much drama going on there. No contrast, not a clean design. Plus, what the heck is it?

Do you want a company that sells black leather or a company that will dye your leather black?

What is your project? That will help determine what the best way is to deal with this.

Where the leather surface is worn away the paste will fill in, and where the leather is not worn away the paste will not fill in so much. The result is not going to produce an even color, but will help to protect the leather and give the bag a longer life.

Sweet!

I believe that the best you can do is to "hide" your posts on that thread.

Not knowing anything about the bag, my first thought about your well-worn bag is to suggest the following... Clean the leather with Lexol Leather Cleaner and let it dry overnight. I'm not sure that I would use dye, but instead I would apply Fiebings Antique Paste. It will coat the leather and "fill in" some of the worn top layer. Nothing will replace that worn leather, but the paste will give it some color and finish. Let it dry thoroughly then apply Lexol Leather Conditioner. Let the bag sit for a few days, buff it with a microfiber cloth, and finish with a light coat of Neatsfoot Oil. If you post a photo of this bag you will probably get more responses.

Bruce Grant covers cutting rawhide in the Argentine in his book "Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding." Cutting_Rawhide_in_the_Argentine_by_Bruce_Grant.pdf

The picture didn't upload.

No, as in leather work. I learned to appreciate the metric system when I was in my early 20's and dabbling in leather. Because metric measurement is easier to increment there was less chance of error. I got away from leather and eventually got into computer graphics, so now I generate all of my leather patterns using Adobe Illustrator for use in a C02 laser cutter that is formatted in millimeters.

I've felt that way since grade school, and the need became more apparent when I got into pattern making. But now, in my reclining years and with a lifetime behind me, I can see how problematic that can be for others, like builders when replacing a door or window in our 50 year old house.

I prefer Oz. myself, and can't always convert on the fly. Here is another version of the leather conversion chart.

That looks pretty flimsy to me. Have you thought of farming the laser engraving out, like to a local makerspace?

You might want to check this link out. http://www.bluegunstore.com/clearplasticsnapprotector-line24size-2.aspx

Thanks for sharing. As links can get disconnected over time, I've posted the PDF here so it will always be available on this site. The_Application_of_Oils_and_Greases_to_Leather.pdf

When you buy leather online, it is always a bit of a gamble. I would contact Tandy to see how to return this "very low quality" side.