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About immiketoo

  • Rank
    Sultan of Chat

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  • Location
    Rhodes, Greece
  • Interests
    Learning, teaching and being.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Figure carving

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  1. The trade off is if you open the wallet all the way, you might have wrinkles on the outer piece. It’s a balancing act for sure. But since they’re closed most of the time, it ok
  2. I’ve been using a zapper that my doctor uses for skin tags. Heats up instantly and works like a charm. I can’t find this exact product online, but if you search medical skin tag remover you’ll find them.
  3. Bend the outside to a little more than 90 degrees and glue in the liner while it’s bent. Use a slicker or other smooth object to seat the glue and let dry. Your angle may vary depending on the leather you use so practice with scrap if you can.
  4. Appply, let dry, sand smooth. Repeat until you’re satisfied
  5. You may like Ink Edge by Fenice or Giardini edge paint. However, none of them are wipe in and forget. Edge paint take as much or more work than normal edges, but the results are very nice. One of these is edge paint, the other is traditional dye/wax/burnish
  6. Bruce, sharpening all your tools isn’t an optional skill in leatherwork in my experience! Took me a while to figure that out. I never considered ease of sharpening concerning edgers but now that you’ve said it, I gravitate toward those that are easier to use/maintain.
  7. Contrary to the above posts, I bevel while the leather is moist. Not cased, but moist. You’ll find you get a super smooth bevel provided your tool is sharp and you even get a burnishing effect because the fibers can compress under the pressure of the beveler. Too wet and it will smoosh out of shape. I use Barry King grooved bevelers FYI.
  8. That’s the ticket. I use less water than that, only adding a bit at a time. You can always add but you can’t take away.
  9. How I handle this is twofold. First, I pre-curve any leather I need to bend and I try and tool it on a curved mandrel if possible. (Many times it’s not easy) The second thing I do is only add moisture to the inside surface of the holster/sheath. That minimizes the smushing effect of the fold. Combine these two and most people won’t notice any distortions.
  10. Welcome. You can probably teach us all a thing or two. Do you happen to have a YouTube channel?
  11. Welcome to the insanity. It appears you have a maker’s eye for detail. Keep it up!
  12. As stated, prevention is best. If you do get a drip or excess, wipe it immediately. Also, I always do multiple light coats rather than try to get one heavy coat to work.
  13. If you’re looking for 2mm round punches, they are available on eBay. I have a set from .5 up to 12 mm https://www.ebay.com/itm/132674687856?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hZSG3GTuRlm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Nv0ezVr4Su-&var=432001119726&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  14. Use thicker lace with your standard chisels. Or make a custom punch. The spacing is the issue. I use 1/4 lace with a 1/8 punch. Sometimes I have to trim the lace down a little. Depends on your lace.
  15. I may be able to help. Here is a video about simple eyes. The best advice I can give other than what’s in the video is to use a modeling spoon to eliminate any hard edges. As for the nose, you’re pretty close. You only need a little more separation between cheeks and bridge of nose junction and to define the nostrils where they need the mouth. Usually it’s a small arc that goes part way under the nostril. Your original artwork probably shows it better. Below is an example of some of mine. Hope it helps.
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