LatigoAmigo

Nice pouch. I had the good luck one time to view some of the original Reddy Kilowatt sketches, which was a delight for me as I was trained as an electrician, and worked for PG&E who used that logo in some of their branding.

Is it worth the trouble? Personally, I'd trash it.

Since older people tend to have more money than younger people, and older people are typically heavier than younger people, that would suggest that you should trend toward the larger sizes.

Good work on the craftsmanship. But what is with the rivets on the back? They stand out quite a bit, and really gave me pause. I'm not sure if they add much to the overall design. If they were necessary, maybe they could have been smaller and black. Otherwise very nice.

Here is a page from Ohio Travel Bag's 2016 catalog showing longer posts for Ligne 20 snaps toward the bottom. This is a standard item, so you will probably find any updated info on their website. Good luck. Pages from P-216Catalog.pdf

The washing machine might be too severe. Why not clean it with something like Lexol Leather Cleaner? If that doesn't do it, maybe try Fiebing's Liquid Glycerine Saddle Soap.

@swortsoul When I saw what RockyAussie did with his laser, I immediately thought of your initial question, and saw that he had your answer for making stamps with a laser cutter.

Given that your leather is so soft, my only suggestion is that when using this devise make sure your blades are very sharp.

Several very successful leatherworkers in my area attended the April in Paris leatherworking school in San Francisco that specializes in European style handbags, wallets, etc. typically with a feminine slant. I see that classes are now being offered online. https://www.amblardleatheratelier.com/

I think it would make a beautiful tote bag. I use similar leather, and line it with bonded leather from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. It is only one ounce thick. I dip dye it for color and glue it to the bag's outside pieces. Without adding much to the overall weight, It stiffens the bag and really showcases supple leather.

If it's a "natural sheen," you might try dulling it down by applying a heavy coat of saddle soap with a micro-fiber cloth. I prefer the glycerin (liquid) saddle soap for this.

And what's that? Inquiring minds want to know...

@Hedge I purchased this clasp, and with the help of a little Gorilla Glue, managed to put a bracelet together. What I found was this particular clasp is difficult to open and close with one hand, so that took it out of contention for me.

What do the metal clasps look like? Can you share a picture?

This may be a little "off topic" but you want to make sure you have adequate ventilation.

I take a slightly different approach. I apply a coat of Easy Braiding Soap to the surface of the leather that I want to engrave. I smear this creamy concoction over the surface, and during the engraving process it picks up most of the soot. Then I take a piece of cardstock and scrape it off before cleaning with either Leather New Foam saddle soap or Lexol Leather Cleaner. Mine is not a perfect solution, and would not be recommended for all types of leather, but it sure works for me and most of my chrome-tanned leathers. Easy Braiding Soap Recipe.pdf

I typically use three coats to make sure I'm getting a durable edge.

My first impression is that I wouldn't be looking forward to sitting on those oversized rivets, but then I saw that you made it for your front pocket. I might have used smaller, double capped rivets that would sit flatter.

You might try Buckleguy at https://www.buckleguy.com/double-cap-rivets/.

You might try Cambell Randall in Texas. They might be able to overnight it to you. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/primers-clear-coats?page=2

Good luck going forward.

When I built my shop I too wanted to have that option, but had limited space, so I built a wrap-around bench that uses drop-in leaves when more space is needed.

If you measure a whole hide, or even a side, you'll find that there is quite a bit of variation not only in the thickness of the leather but also in its firmness. In this country the thickness of the leather is referred to as "weight" and is measured in "ounces." The firmness, or temper of the leather, varies within the hide, is firmer in the shoulder area and along the back, and is softer around the belly. Here is a conversion chart that I refer to often:

If it were me I would place the suspenders on our clothes dryer's sweater drying rack and set the temperature on low, encouraging the oil to further penetrate the leather, then run the dryer in 15 minute intervals and check on the progress regularly. You don't want to dry out the leather, only encourage the oil to fully penetrate it.

I certainly understand the benefit of those types of sites, but I didn't think this was one of them.