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About Spyros

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  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests
    Woodworking / Photography

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Tools probably

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  1. Mine did dammit, I'm just using a no-name bottle that came with the machine. Any brand recommendations?
  2. Well oiling so frequently is great for the machine but not so great for the leather, if you overdo it even a little bit it will absolutely spew oil on your work (and your shoes, don't ask me how I know)
  3. Welcome to the wonderful world of leatherworking where you don't have to deal with breathable dust and piles of shavings, your tools and machines don't wake up the neighbours, you never have to clamp anything or wait an hour for glue to dry, you don't need a dedicated shed, you never lose a finger, and you can absolutely do professional work on the kitchen table with just a toolbox worth of tools! You've done some excellent work with timber, well done. Time to enjoy a more user-friendly craft
  4. There is an actual category of customers who get disappointed by low prices. There's levels and levels of perversion out there.
  5. If you are doing any sort of significant stitching lengths then IMO these result are pretty much as good as it gets.
  6. yeah they are... the thread has a lot more distance to travel to reach the end of the hole, with the diamonds it bottoms out faster so it doesn't really matter how much you pull it.
  7. Yes pretty much every single thing that people tell you to put on your leather behaves differently depending on the leather itself, which side of the leather you put it on, how much you put on and what you mix it with. Videos/research/instructions/advice are all nice, but there's only one way to really know anything about any leatherworking liquid: try it on an offcut and see what it does. Repeat every time you receive a different type of leather, and never assume anything. A lot of leather has gone to waste because of assumptions about liquids LOL Most common spanner in the works is that a leather might already have a layer of something-something on it (or in it) from the tannery, and the tannery never mentioned it in the description, and then good luck expecting resolene or tan kote to behave like you imagined. I use a lot of tan kote and resolene, I love them both for different reasons. But when I receive a new to me type of leather I always treat it as a mystery leather and run a series of experiments for finishing, burnishing, skiving and dyeing before I start working with it.
  8. How it feels is irrelevant, just make sure it says HDPE not LDPE or something else I've been pounding $200 KS blades on it for a couple of years now, and sometimes *really* pounding them all the way in, and they're just as sharp and straight as the day 1. Same with my cheaper ones.
  9. Ηigh Density Polyurethane, just soft-ish plastic basically. Not too soft not too hard, Its perfect. The cutting board was made of the same. Low density Polyurethane is basically foam, like those insert cutouts they put inside tool drawers and presentation boxes. High density polyurethane is basically the same thing but more dense.
  10. $2 plastic bread cutting board That worked great for a couple of years, eventually I wanted bigger and I bought a giant piece of HDPE from ebay and screwed it on my bench. That was like $60 or something
  11. He's Irish, they say different stuff I've lived in Ireland (the other one in the south) for a year as an exchange student, and it's hard not to love the place. I remember a lot of lingo but not gewgaws tho
  12. If I make a notebook for myself or my wife I will handstitch it, line it, paint the edges, sand them to perfection and make them shine. I just struggle to believe anyone would actually pay me fairly for that labour.
  13. I didn't understand it either until I started making bags. When you make bags you buy sides, a side will make you 2 bags if you're lucky, and then you end up with a whole bunch of offcuts that are too big to throw away and too small to make a bag with. And now I have a pile of offcuts the size of a small island. I reckon those hastily made small items, that's what it is, someone getting rid of this offcuts. I have to do it too at some point, just design something cute and simple and make 100 of it as fast as possible. Will I line them? No. Why? Because I make bags, I don't want to waste time on something that is not my specialty. I just want to get rid of offcuts as fast as possible and if I make a buck in the process then so much the better.
  14. I'm much more likely these days to change the design than convince myself to deal with ordering zippers.
  15. Yeah I don't really use thick saddlery leather so my chisels have no problems going through my bags or anything else I make. But generally keep in mind, stitching chisels are much like awls and like most other tools, in that you kinda get what you paid for. My KS Blades which are 10 tooth and not 5, which makes it even harder, have no problems going through 2 X 8 oz and probably more. And they pull out fairly easily because it's high quality and well sharpened steel. However the price of quality chisels like KS and Sinabroks is also very different. I think mate if you're mostly doing thick leather, like sheaths and stuff, you'll be better served long term just ditching the chisels entirely and mastering the awl like on the video above. And maybe keep your tandy chisels for when you do "chap leather" like Don Gonzales calls it, ie softer/thinner stuff. That's really what they were designed for, although like I said some of the better ones you can push them to their limits.
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