LatigoAmigo

It embarrasses those of us who pay for our tools and supplies with our own money (that we usually got by having a job). We spend this money on leather hides, dyes, findings, etc. for a hobby that we love, and you are asking us to stop spending that hard-earned money on our selves and instead give some of it to you, someone we don't know and likely never will. Remind me again... why would I want to send you any of my money?

Oops. Can't see the pics. This is a .heic format file; on this forum .jpg format works best. I Photoshopped the image and reduced the size.

A kid I knew in scouts used olive oil on his baseball glove. Turned the glove a funny color and smelled like last night's salad. Some on this site swear by it, but it has and expiration date and can go rancid.

Bet you couldn't have gotten that good of a result with olive oil.

You might try something like contact paper.

That would depend on the color of the latigo saddle stings.

You are not alone. Beveled roo lace was great to work with, but has been in short supply for a long time, as Tandy carried it for many years. Maverick Leather carries kangaroo hides, but it is hard to recreate the bevel that the spools of lace have.

Thanks for the update.

@DirtyDusty Try this link. It ships from up/over. https://www.knottylinda.com/

I didn't realize there were five links.

I think the title is the first red flag. "I designed these shoes is a new one interested" was meant to read "I designed these shoes is anyone interested" or at least that is how I interpreted it. Yes, something is definitely wrong here.

Photos might help.

@Jojomojo I went to the link and because I chose not to allow cookies, I am not able to see your good work. On this site the commonly held view is that it's better to post the image than a link to the image.

It is homemade that I bought from the builder on Craigslist. The etching is very coarse so I don't do much with it.

I tried cutting a piece of derlin once, but I didn't find it laser friendly.

For someone just curious about leatherwork or on a very tight budget, that set of tools would certainly be worth the $20 price tag.

Neoprene is working for me. It is readily available from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BKP6KFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It comes in 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 inch thickness.

I would check the source of that. I have been using a 100 watt laser for a few years now, and here is my opinion on the matter: Acrylic templates? Yes. Acrylic leather stamps? No.

Neither have I. Found this at britannica.com. "Mineral tanning, which uses mineral salts, produces a soft, pliable leather and is the preferred method for producing most light leathers. Use of this method can shorten the tanning period to days or even hours. Chromium salt is the most widely used mineral agent, but salts from aluminum and zirconium are also used. In mineral tanning the hides are soaked in saline baths of increasing strength or in acidic baths in which chemical reactions deposit salts in the skin fibers." Because of the use of chromium salt, some might consider a leather given this treatment to be considered chrome tanned, but that being said, combination tanning where the leather is both veg tanned and chrome tanned is fairly common when there is a need to resist moisture, such as with latigo leather.

First off, my comments are intended to provide you with helpful feedback, so no offence intended. Since watchstraps are so tiny, everything you do must be "perfect." Only use the highest quality leather. Anything less is not your friend. Some of the edges look very rough. You want a more finished look. The edge finish should not bleed onto the surface of the leather. The holes for the buckle's tongue should be clean and uniform. Some of the stitching is out of alignment with the edge. Some of the thread is too heavy. Exotic leathers can fight with the design. Hope that helps.

That's a legitimate concern. The craftsmanship is okay, but the look is not very sophisticated.

Saddle making is a highly skilled art. You typically don't start your leatherworking journey there, as there are many materials and tools you will need to be familiar with, and skills you must learn. If you are serious about building these two saddles, you might look into apprenticing with a saddle maker.

I couldn't help but smile when you posted this. I bought most of my tools over 50 years ago and they are still working fine. I have never used an exacto knife on leather. They are not heavy enough. I use a "break-point" utility knife. -- no savings Instead of a ruler, pick up a piece of aluminum stock 1/2" x 48" from Home Depot. -- savings $5 A scratch awl is nice but you can file down a nail and get most of the same results. -- savings $4 A quarter instead of washers. -- savings $9.75 I have a stitching pony, but it has such limited use that I have never used it. So I'd say save your money. -- savings $120 I have a slicker, but as above, it has limited use. To smooth an edge us a piece of old Levis jeans or a scrap of canvas. -- savings $10 You should be able to pick up a nylon headed hammer on Amazon for around $15. -- savings $60 Total savings = $203.75