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McCarthy

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  1. Going off the top of my head, some of the tools you might want are a nice set of acrylic templates, x-acto knife, pricking irons (3.38 mm maximum), stitching pony, edge paint, 3M wet/dry sandpaper in various grits, a bookbinders paring knife, dividers, and hole punches. For glue, Aquilim 315 or Saregum. For thread, you can't go wrong with Fil au Chinoise. You will have to experiment with the thickness. John James 004 harness needles. Luxury upgrades would be a fileteuse and a multiple hole punch. There are plenty of YouTube vids that show the process, mostly non-English but that doesn't matter. A picture is worth a thousand words, as they say.
  2. #2 will give you a nice rounded effect on two layers of leather, or a slightly squared edge if there is a welt. That is what I would use. You may want to use a #1 on areas where there is a single layer though.
  3. I have a nice big crystal cutting mat that I use for most things but for punching holes (or anything that would wear out the mat) I use a block of lead. If I didn't have the lead, I would take four short lengths of 4x4 and screw them together into a nice solid cube and use that.
  4. I don't see how they can stop you from selling leather fashion accessories that attach to a belt. Not your fault if a customer decides to cram his evil, patriarchal, possibly racist firearm in there.
  5. Hey! That's a good idea. I have a roll of clear plastic stuff that I got from Weaver (I think) but it's too thin and curvy. The cutting boards are thick enough to get a good scribe.
  6. You should look into carrying Meisi thread. Particularly their Superfine linen and Xiange polyester. I love Xiange but the nearest source is in Canada and they have a very limited selection. Their website is http://www.meisi108.com/
  7. I haven't tried it, and I am opposed to it on principle because it's marketed to gullible, emotional people by lying about saving cows. Nobody "needs" leather, it's a luxury and it's okay for it to be an expensive finite resource.
  8. Here are 4mm and 5mm chisels with 1.0mm tiger thread on the outer lines and 0.8mm on the inner lines. This was on W&C 8/10 bridle leather, and the teeth will only go through one thickness comfortably. So on two stitched layers, you will either be completing the hole with an awl, or punching each layer individually. Some of the more expensive makers offer reverse sets, so you can punch both sides. I started with these chisels and quickly moved on to pricking irons, so you never know where you will end up.
  9. How many stitches per inch? I can't tell without seeing the whole holster but I would guess it's 6 SPI. These chisels in 4mm are what I would recommend for that kind of work. Maybe even 5mm, if you are going to be doing thick welts.
  10. If you can show us an example of the sort of stitching you want to do, we can give advice on how to achieve it.
  11. 0.8 mm Ritza tiger thread and John James 002 needles would be better suited for those irons. 1/0 needles are too big, they would go with 4mm irons and Ritza 1.0 or 1.2.
  12. I'm sure it can be done, but I'd like to know if anybody actually does it or has tried it and is it worth doing. I've seen plenty of people cutting and engraving leather but I haven't seen any instances of someone that uses a laser to mark the cutting lines instead of using a template. It seems like it would be more accurate than cutting out a piece of paper and tracing it onto the leather with a scratch awl, but on the other hand it might be more time consuming and frankly the soot is my biggest concern.
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