LatigoAmigo

First off, my comments are intended to provide you with helpful feedback, so no offence intended. Since watchstraps are so tiny, everything you do must be "perfect." Only use the highest quality leather. Anything less is not your friend. Some of the edges look very rough. You want a more finished look. The edge finish should not bleed onto the surface of the leather. The holes for the buckle's tongue should be clean and uniform. Some of the stitching is out of alignment with the edge. Some of the thread is too heavy. Exotic leathers can fight with the design. Hope that helps.

That's a legitimate concern. The craftsmanship is okay, but the look is not very sophisticated.

Saddle making is a highly skilled art. You typically don't start your leatherworking journey there, as there are many materials and tools you will need to be familiar with, and skills you must learn. If you are serious about building these two saddles, you might look into apprenticing with a saddle maker.

I couldn't help but smile when you posted this. I bought most of my tools over 50 years ago and they are still working fine. I have never used an exacto knife on leather. They are not heavy enough. I use a "break-point" utility knife. -- no savings Instead of a ruler, pick up a piece of aluminum stock 1/2" x 48" from Home Depot. -- savings $5 A scratch awl is nice but you can file down a nail and get most of the same results. -- savings $4 A quarter instead of washers. -- savings $9.75 I have a stitching pony, but it has such limited use that I have never used it. So I'd say save your money. -- savings $120 I have a slicker, but as above, it has limited use. To smooth an edge us a piece of old Levis jeans or a scrap of canvas. -- savings $10 You should be able to pick up a nylon headed hammer on Amazon for around $15. -- savings $60 Total savings = $203.75

I wouldn't say crazy, but maybe overly optimistic. But that, in and of itself, is not a bad thing.

You will find that because of the varying types of leather and tanning processes, considering thickness to allow for bends or folds depends on the nature of the leather being used. You will learn through experience that generally a thicker more supple leather will bend and fold much like a thinner stiffer leather, so they could call for the same allowances. Another example is when using veg tanned leather. A dampened leather will bend and fold much easier than when it's dry, so that has to be taken into consideration. A lot can be learned through books, but experience provides us with the best lessons.

There are ways to reduce the size of photos somewhere on this site. One simple way, if it might work for you, is to send them to yourself on your cell phone, where you are given the option to send them in a smaller size. Of course there are various apps to do the same. It would be a shame for your hard work not to be posted here for all to see.

@Mustangdave The preferred way to post images on this site is not to use links but to post the images themselves. Links can get "unlinked" over time.

I don't think this kind of appeal belongs in "Show Off." You might ask to have it re-posted in "Leatherwork Conversation."

Well, that's a happy thought.

Digital technology was not available when I started doing leather over 50 years ago, but when drawing software came out about 30 years ago, I really embraced it. With drawing programs and assorted computer driven machinery I can do more and better work than I ever imagined. But you don't have to own this stuff, you can access it by joining what is called a "maker space", and use their equipment. Of course, you have to be fortunate enough to have one nearby. Some community colleges also own this equipment, plus they offer training in this technology. It looks like the future to me.

I guess what I meant to say was that one could cut the die out of acrylic or plexiglass in about 30 seconds on a 100 watt laser, then use the die over and over. But I can certainly see the advantages of the 3D printed die. A great option if you have access to one.

... and cut on a laser in about 30 seconds.

You might reach out to these two very successful saddle makers that I knew "back in the day." https://skyhorse.com/ Lisa's email and Loren's cell phone are listed at the bottom of their home page.

Neither is better, it is simply a design choice. You have to decide which look are you going for.

You might consider latigo leather. Found this at www.leatherjacketshop.com: "Latigo leather is treated with conditioners and infused with oils which makes it almost completely waterproof and extremely durable. It is only this why latigo leather is the most common type of leather when it comes to making saddle seats, straps and horse tack." Then from www.bestleather.org: “Latigo leather is most commonly made from cowhide. It is first chrome tanned, which involves soaking the hide in a solution of acidic salts and then drying it before further processing. Next it is vegetable tanned by soaking it in a series of vats with progressively higher concentrations of tanning solutions. After completing the tanning process, the hides are tumbled in large drums to absorb various oils and waxes. This makes them more pliable and supple, while retaining their strength.” I have used latigo for many years because of its durability, and then I came across "California Latigo" from The Hide House (https://www.hidehouse.com/Leather/Belt-Grade-California-Latigo-Cow-Full-Grain-Retan-Finish-CLYE45-P.asp) and like it because holds up in every kind of weather. There are two things you will need to know if you don't already: latigo's temper ranges from supple to very firm, and it can take tooling but not well. Here's a pair of bags I made a few years ago using California Latigo.

Chrome tan and pigskin can both be rather soft leathers, so without the mesh the strap will likely stretch out of shape.

Amazon, of course.

It looks like they took the advice offered by our members and quit logging in. It is easy to delete one's posts, so they could have done that too.

You might consider starting with a gentle saddle soap foam like this. It is a kinder version of the paste.

@Boicie To further confuse the urge to categorize latigo leather, here is a description of Horween's latigo from Maverick Leather's website: "Horween’s Latigo line is a full grain, veg retan leather. Characterized by a beautiful tight grain and made in a full range of color, finishes, weights and tempers. Many people think of Latigo as the original saddlery style leather. While Horween will produce it in matte or gloss finishes, heavy or soft tempers, it can also be produced in a full aniline, semi aniline, or pigment finishes, as well as naked, hand glazed or waxed."

These days I tend to shy away from latigo with a soft temper, so I don't use any sealer, only conditioners, like Fiebings Aussie Leather Conditioner or Neatsfoot oil, so Oakwood Conditioner would be a good choice. Because of the oils and fats that have been infused into latigo, Resoline may not provide the same finish that it does when applied to a veg tanned leather. I've tried it twice and it seemed to just disappear.

That is so sad. I have never had anything like that happen, and have been using latigo for over 50 years.

What are you using it for that it bleeds? I'm only using it for making bags and have never had the color rub off.

That is latigo leather... don't be afraid of it, you might just fall in love with it.