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scrapyarddog

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  1. Same experience though not via eBay. My takeaway was I needed to hone my skills more before pushing out a product, but along the way I still sold products that I was comfortable with to cover cost. I also offered to make free products for ppl who bought my subpar products earlier. When they see the difference, they go WOW. It’s really hard to rework a bad reputation and win back disgruntled clients. It’s easier to maintain an operation with good and consistent QC. Not saying your straps are subpar, but I think you’ll see some resistance. Check out some higher end production contents, pay for some courses even, it’ll be good investment.
  2. PVC pipes of various sizes. I use them for round box stitching, to glue exterior and lining of bag flaps (to make sure the finish product naturally bends a certain way), to make handles.
  3. No, what I mean is round knives have limited applications for most hobbyist, and it honestly isn't the safest or easiest tool.
  4. I don’t think the Tandy version is 62. It bends and flexes differently from some D2 I have that are at 60-62, and doesn’t hold an edge as well. Not a scientifically tested assessment but it’s somewhat obvious. A hobbyist using a round knife…? Hmmm… honestly, I rarely use a round knife and I spent a few hours a day on leather.
  5. Hmmm… D2 is not shabby by any means but is probably not on the same tier as M390 or the like. However, I think you are right about the hardening or lack of on the Tandy is probably a good reason why it underperforms. My experience with other blades made of D2, while just ok, isn’t this underwhelming. I was thinking it might be 400 stainless but it wasn’t that abysmal.
  6. D2. It’s not 430 or M390. Chemistry does not match.
  7. It’s pretty easy to wrap. Just skive a round piece of Sully 1-1.25 oz, over cut a little, and wrap the rivet up like a dumpling. Don’t skive too thin or else it’ll tear easy. There are some easier ways to do it but I don’t make that many that efficiency has become a concern. It does not burnish well from my experience.
  8. Oh, WELL, she can have one but your wallet's gonna be in deep pain. Sully is pretty damn awesome. Easy to skive as well. An angel to work with. OH feces... Totally forgot. Only the maker knows... where the screw ups are. Ahahaha! I wrapped the rivet with leather and use its bulk to hold it at the belt. Will probably use a hidden snap button or hook in the future.
  9. Tandy using M390?? Hmmm... I’ll shoot it with a spectrum analyzer tmrw and see. I’d be surprised if they use SS 201.
  10. As I don’t make blades or know how to heat treat, I can’t comment on that. All I can say is I do see differences in Tandy’s head knife, high carbon paring knife from Talas, CPM 154, S30V, D2, 20CV (LW), M390, certain “HSS”, and blue paper steel used by Okada. And if someone wants to get a reasonably good knife without knife making skills, there are good options out there. For sure, the treatment done by individual makers and blade geometry adopted make a difference, but if I had to choose, 20CV and M390. For crazy sharpness (but also a tad brittle), blue paper steel.
  11. True, but I think it’s hard to deny that some steel provide better balance between hardness and toughness, and some steel just aren’t that great at maintaining an edge. Unless we are here saying that no matter the chemistry, all steel can perform the same.
  12. I'm sure some masters have no problem using it, but I'd rather spend it bit more money to get something with higher HRC and toughness. If you can get one made of M390 or 20CV, you'll see a difference in edge retention.
  13. Alran Sully 3 oz and Fil au Chinois black 632. Main difference is the the handle design. Friend bought for wife and now his daughter wants a pink.
  14. For wallets, I prefer 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm. For t-slots, I fold the leather over to line it or fold the top and line it with nylon where it's not visible to reduce bulk. If it's an all leather construction, I would skive all edges of the t-slot before I fold, and when I make double turn edge wallets, the "wings" of the t-slots are further skived to 0.2 mm by hand. When I make wallets, I like to overlap the t-slots for about 9 mm then turn them to prevent accidentally exposing the edges so they have to be skived really really thin. Ripping a little is fine since most areas that might rip will be hidden from view. 0.6 mm is perfectly fine and from my experience, Alran at 0.4 mm is just way too thin and would require some backing with fabric.
  15. Real simple, cut out a 4 cm diameter circle with 7-8 oz tooling leather, place it on top of the base strap, skive a goat hide to 2 oz, glue, cover, mold. You could use a heated iron to improve definition. The turned edges are skived to 1 oz or less but I wouldn’t recommend that for the raised part bc it could rip. I didn’t case the goat.
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