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scrapyarddog

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  1. For wallets, I prefer 0.6 mm to 0.8 mm. For t-slots, I fold the leather over to line it or fold the top and line it with nylon where it's not visible to reduce bulk. If it's an all leather construction, I would skive all edges of the t-slot before I fold, and when I make double turn edge wallets, the "wings" of the t-slots are further skived to 0.2 mm by hand. When I make wallets, I like to overlap the t-slots for about 9 mm then turn them to prevent accidentally exposing the edges so they have to be skived really really thin. Ripping a little is fine since most areas that might rip will be hidden from view. 0.6 mm is perfectly fine and from my experience, Alran at 0.4 mm is just way too thin and would require some backing with fabric.
  2. Real simple, cut out a 4 cm diameter circle with 7-8 oz tooling leather, place it on top of the base strap, skive a goat hide to 2 oz, glue, cover, mold. You could use a heated iron to improve definition. The turned edges are skived to 1 oz or less but I wouldn’t recommend that for the raised part bc it could rip. I didn’t case the goat.
  3. Thanks, I thought it turned out better than expected. Originally, I was going to use a brass oval shaped turn lock, but the particular lock has about 4 mm between the top and back plate and I didn't feel like adding that much weight to the flap. Then, I remembered Philip Jury's watch case that had a raised oval design, but it was easier for me to cut a circle with my tools. It's basically a double turned edge since I added a thinner piece at the bottom to cover the turned edges. That's a great question. Thee hold downs are 2 pieces. Check the photo attached. If you burnish the edges or use edge paint instead of turning them, it's definitely possible to make that in 1 piece. But in order to turn this, after you turn parts to the loop and part to the main body of the hold down, you would have the awkward opening at the corner. I could cover it up with some paint but the idea was to expose no edges. Now, if I used a curve instead of a right angle, I would be able to turn it with a less extreme stretch rate, but when the tab flips upward, the turned edge will be expose. To avoid that, I'd probably use 2 pieces of skived leather, one to cover the larger part, and one to cover the loop in an upside down manner. There would be a faint joint line or overlapping but it probably wouldn't be very noticeable. Problem was... the friend wanted it FAST. I usually require a 3 month advance notice, and my friend, who supposedly has a MA in engineering, gave me 2 weeks. With other products to make at the same time, he frigging broke me.
  4. I didn't expect it to turn out this good to be honest. It just worked. I think the thread is Fil au Chinois 632 Rouge #128. For the button, I cut a round piece of 3 oz tooling leather with a round punch, glued it to the rapid rivet, then skived a piece of goat hide to 1 oz at the center and 0.5 oz at the outside, placed the rivet at the center and wrapped the outside back onto the side and underside of the rivet. You really don't need to add the 3 oz tooling leather, but I needed the bulk. See photo for a similar button. Thank you! Well, I hope his wife likes it (and orders more... I know what she can spend on bags).
  5. Hey thanks, the flap uses navy goat suede, the lining of the body is burgundy nappa + burgundy kidskin trim, the lining of the pocket is pink goat.
  6. I wonder if my friend is going to put money in it and give it to his wife as a big red envelope. Close guess. It's a red Alran's Sully. I forgot to ask RML to split this hide for the wallets I make so it's been on the shelf for a few months. Wasn't sure when I'd use it, but as fate would have it.
  7. The body is based on a Moynat pattern but shrunken to 87.75%. Changed handle to mostly turned edge and the closure from lock to strap. If I could redo it, I'd change the handle so no edges are exposed. The little knob at the tip of the strap close is a brass double cap rivet wrapped in leather. The belt keeper loop was a bit roomier than I anticipated so had to add some balk at the end of the strap to improve closure. I didn't want to break the color scheme so I wrapped the rivet. Friend asked for a rush order, and I had to use what I had in inventory to produce it, and just didn't have time to develop a brand new pattern.
  8. It's been 2 years almost 3, and you reminded me of an embarrassing comment I made back then. It turned out less than stellar. Now, I think 2 oz is the thickest one should go, and depending on the technique you use, you might want to consider skiving further.
  9. Tannery Haas Novonappa Chocolate, Alran Sully Dark Brown, Fil au Chinois 632 Terre, lock from MMC Colombo. Another fun sidetrack that further delayed the production of other items, but I couldn't resist it.
  10. A very solid piece, every detail. I can make the same thing but not sure my work looks this crisp and proper.
  11. Yes, the dimensions... So far when I turn the edges of opposite sides, the width of the items post turn would increase by roughly 1 mm. That I had to factor into the design. Also, the outer shell is about 2-3mm longer when the wallet is folded. I wish there were a formula to follow when drafting these things, but each type of hide has its own characteristics and the thickness of the leather makes a difference as well.
  12. Lol thank you, I did Lysol the shop. Yup, I really do hate using edge paint or exposing edges. Took a long time for me to figure out how sharp the skiver should be and how to handle the blades.
  13. Uh un-uh-ing-uh-believable Amazing. Makes me want to restore that antique chair my cats insist is their second litter box.
  14. Turned every exposed edge. Started with 1~2 oz Sully and skived the margins to 0.5~0.75 oz. I added 2 pieces of poly lining to the body of the billfold to give it more strength and stretch resistance. 1.5~2 oz Sully would've been perfect but unfortunately, I had the hide split too thin. Made skiving easier but at the cost of strength. You wouldn't really be able to tear by hand 2 pieces of 1.5 oz Sully glued together but I didn't want to risk it so added reinforcement. For finer leatherwork, I'm not a big fan of edge paint to be honest, and while it's better, also not a fan of a single turn edge especially the ones where the excess of the body is turned to cover the card pocket units. This piece took about 10 hours to complete. Color was requested by client. After seeing the finished product, he now wants to add an order for orange +fire red. F36D8C42-4691-4274-8798-6ED4C9F6397E_1_201_a.jp2
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