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Zonker1972

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About Zonker1972

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    CO

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  1. fredk thanks for the idea. i'll try it out.
  2. I built a catch-all for a friend over the last few weeks and when i applied fiebing's tan kote the piece got quite stiff. my order of operations: i tooled, the dyed with fiebing's pro dye 3x with about 2-3 hours in between coats, wait 24 hours, buff to remove excess dye, then oiled with some olive oil al la Don Gonzalez, let dry overnight and then finally coated with tan kote 2x with about 4 hours of dry time in between coats. this isn't a real big deal but my friend would like to be able to roll up the catch all and take it different places. i'm afraid that the tan kote will crack or craze. has anyone else run into this? i thought tan kote was supposed to dry to a more supple finish than resolene. is it possible i laid the tan kote on too thick? i'd like to understand why this happened as i am considering coating the motorcycle seat that i tooled with tan kote, the leather balm with atom wax did not create a good seal. thanks in advance for the help.
  3. pasterbob that's a good idea. i went to my local tandy and asked about this issue. the salesman said that the outcome was due to using leather balm with atom wax. i'm not rally sure how this could be but perhaps if i re-dye the green section and then seal with some tan kote it may fix the problem.
  4. sbrownn thanks for the input. it's a real shame. this took me quite a bit of time. i would hate to think that i'd have to re-dye the seat every year to keep the green sections.
  5. hope someone has an idea why this is happening. The 2nd pic show the seat after stain and covering with leather balm with atom wax while the 1st pic shows that the green Fiebing's pro dye is wearing off the seat. i had some luggage strapped to the seat for my trip to and from Sturgis this year. but this seat has only been used for this season. i would like to know if anyone has an idea as to why it looks like the green dye is all rubbing off. any help is greatly appreciated.
  6. very nice work. i'm thinking out making a tank bib for my bike. just wondering, did you add any magnets to help hold the bib to the tank or is this secured by straps under the tank from the front to the back? zonker
  7. Rocky mountain leather is fairly inexpensive and has a pretty good selection
  8. I've searched through the forum and done some google searching but i'm just getting a consistent answer on top coating motorcycle seats that will be used in the weather. I used oil based dyes, allowed them to dry for 72 hours and then oiled with olive oil, al la Don Gonzalas. But now I am stuck on the best finish to use to protect my leather as well as allow me to condition my leather. I have discounted resolene even though it would be a barrier to the elements because I do not feel that an acrylic top coat will flex with use and it would be a permanent barrier allowing no leather conditioning over time.. Don Gonzales has suggested on his youtube vids that tan kote allows the leather to absorb oils but is "water resistant". I initially liked this idea and was going to finish with tan kote. however, the more work I put into these seats, the more scared I am that some weather will destroy all my work. I have also seen some post on using leather balm with atom wax and/or pecard motorcycle leather dressing. The ideas I took away from these posts is that the wax creates a barrier to keep out water but not a permanent barrier, a barrier that requires some maintenance. I am starting to lean towards the leather balm with atom wax or the pecard. Can I get some opinions from others who have made tooled motorcycle seats? thank you, Zonker
  9. the glue is not going to make a durable bond. you can use wood glue and then stitch the two pieces together. that will give you the working time and hold the pieces while you mechanically adhere them with the thread.
  10. if you are wet molding after you sew, i don't see why it matters if the glue is degraded. the glue is only there to hold the leather until you sew a permanent bond. if the water degrades the glue, the leather is still sewn together.
  11. i hit a cow.... totaled the bike. 9 surgeries later you'd never even know. after the accident i couldn't find my watch. 2 years later i found it in the side pocket of my tail bag. i guess i took it off before the accident. live and learn. nice wallet by the way. i like that you used only carving stamps.
  12. i agree with Retswerb. solid book.
  13. that maybe the 1st time i have ever heard of a Barry King knife referred to as "budget friendly". i am by no means a greater carver but i have several sk, from basic craftool, craftool pro and a pro delux from Springfield. i don't really notice a difference between the really cheap sk and the bit more expensive sk. perhaps you'll find a large difference when you move up to BK or the Wranglers sk. please let us know your findings.
  14. you can and should treat the leather with a sodium bicarb solution to neutralize the acid in the 'groon. for a sodium bicarb solution, dissolve some baking soda, not baking powder, in water. i heated mine up on the stove. let it cool and store in a bottle just like the 'groon. dip the leather in the sodium bicarb solution for about 5 minutes. this sodium bicarb treatment will neutralize the acid, vinegar is a weak acetic acid, and get rid of some of the vinegar smell. this treatment may address the corroding/tarnishing of some metals that maxdaddy spoke noted
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