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About mdawson

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    Sydney, Australia

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  • Leatherwork Specialty

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  1. Boat chandlers have PVC sheet off the roll for bimini 'windows', our local, Whitworths (no connection) have 1.4m wide rolls, 0.75mm thick for $A24/m.
  2. Not quite sure what you're asking for, the tension adjustment is the square knob shown in the 3rd picture, the cam lever is only used to release and retension when moving the leather, here's a view through the 'arms' so you can see the alignment. Added a view of it folded, I designed it on the fly, if I build another I'd make the base longer than the jaws to protect them.
  3. Here's how I 'got around' the question of what size jaws, I simply made rotating / removable jaws. By backing off the screw they can be angled or rotated 90 to use the longer side or turned 180 to use a different jaw configuration. The basic jaw is 90mm wide, it's what I had in my shop. At the moment I haven't 'configured' the bottom jaw as I haven't yet had a need for a different configuration jaw but the last photo shows a jaw from the prototype which has a notch cut in it to fit around a previously fitted snap etc or to set down very soft material within the notch for support while it is being stitched. In the unlikely event I need something else I can always make up a new pair of jaws.
  4. Sounds like a M16 thread, 2mm pitch. Mark
  5. An aircraft rivet squeezer is the first thing that popped into my head too, but aircraft rivets are aluminium and are possibly(?) softer than the copper rivets used in leatherwork. If you intend to follow this up, perhaps contact the local chapter of the 'Experimental Aircraft Assoc' and see if someone has a squeezer and could test set a copper rivet for you. Another alternative, if you have a compressor, would be a pneumatic rivet gun, basically just a hand held pneumatic hammer. Likewise an EAA member may test a copper rivet with a gun for you. You can get hand squeezers and rivet guns from Aircraft Tool Supply or Aircraftspruce. I've purchased from both companies, both are help full and easy to deal with. Mark
  6. Hi, Barnes Molding have 99% isoprop, King st, Newtown, about 200m from Sydney Uni, but it's about 10x the price of metho ($44ltr vs $4), Bunnings also list 500ml for $27 on their website (not available to buy online) but they don't say what strength, I know Barnes is 99% as I bought some a couple of years ago. Mark
  7. That looks to me that it might be a lacing pattern rather than a stitching pattern, perhaps try searching for lacing rather than stitching. Mark
  8. Australia covers A LOT of ground, where abouts ? Birdsall Leather in Sydney is my goto for supplies and advice, when things get back to somewhat normal they also have workshops where you can go in and work on your project with knowledgeable people around to answer questions. Also try searching online for leather work guilds, the one in Sydney is the Leatherworkers Guild of NSW, again when things get more 'normal' they run workshops in Epping.
  9. I bought a sharpening system based on this principle about 40 years ago for sharpening sheath and pen knives, they work well being very consistent in angle and by using a marker on the blade, such as the fingernail slot on a pen knife as a reference to mount it each time that angle was maintained so went straight to the fine stones, no need to reset the angle. I think the finest stone in my set is 1000 so if used that for leather knives they would still need a bit more work to put a polish on them. I still use it occasionally if I need to reset the edge on a pen knife but maintain them with a ceramic sharpener. If I didn't already have it, would I buy it today ? possibly not. Mark
  10. This discussion may help. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88220-dyeing-technic-tahama/ Mark
  11. Aircraft yoke, this one is from actually from a flight simulator modeled on on a Cessna yoke. The section I assume the OP wishes to cover are basically straight with a taper.
  12. Hi arcrue That looks somewhat like some videos I've seen on a process called marbling, try searching here or youtube for marbling or marbled leather. Mark
  13. Hi Fcapela bikermutt is referring too Nigel Armitage. Mark
  14. Personally I like the look as it is, each to their own :-)
  15. Hi all, Thanks for taking the time to respond, apologies for tardy acknowledgement, I assumed the forum software would notify me of responses to my query which it didn't, I probably need to look at my preferences :-) Dwight, interesting idea, hadn't thought of that, will give it some serious thought although I might have the suede extending between the layers (appropriately skived). Matt, I know the facts on the strength of epoxy but murphys law (& my paranoia) tells me epoxy on non porus surfaces would let go and I'd lose the badge. Bob, still thinking this is my preferred option, I like the mechanical 'lock'. Mark
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