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About mdawson

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    Sydney, Australia

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  1. Sounds like a M16 thread, 2mm pitch. Mark
  2. An aircraft rivet squeezer is the first thing that popped into my head too, but aircraft rivets are aluminium and are possibly(?) softer than the copper rivets used in leatherwork. If you intend to follow this up, perhaps contact the local chapter of the 'Experimental Aircraft Assoc' and see if someone has a squeezer and could test set a copper rivet for you. Another alternative, if you have a compressor, would be a pneumatic rivet gun, basically just a hand held pneumatic hammer. Likewise an EAA member may test a copper rivet with a gun for you. You can get hand squeezers and rivet guns from Aircraft Tool Supply or Aircraftspruce. I've purchased from both companies, both are help full and easy to deal with. Mark
  3. Hi, Barnes Molding have 99% isoprop, King st, Newtown, about 200m from Sydney Uni, but it's about 10x the price of metho ($44ltr vs $4), Bunnings also list 500ml for $27 on their website (not available to buy online) but they don't say what strength, I know Barnes is 99% as I bought some a couple of years ago. Mark
  4. That looks to me that it might be a lacing pattern rather than a stitching pattern, perhaps try searching for lacing rather than stitching. Mark
  5. Australia covers A LOT of ground, where abouts ? Birdsall Leather in Sydney is my goto for supplies and advice, when things get back to somewhat normal they also have workshops where you can go in and work on your project with knowledgeable people around to answer questions. Also try searching online for leather work guilds, the one in Sydney is the Leatherworkers Guild of NSW, again when things get more 'normal' they run workshops in Epping.
  6. I bought a sharpening system based on this principle about 40 years ago for sharpening sheath and pen knives, they work well being very consistent in angle and by using a marker on the blade, such as the fingernail slot on a pen knife as a reference to mount it each time that angle was maintained so went straight to the fine stones, no need to reset the angle. I think the finest stone in my set is 1000 so if used that for leather knives they would still need a bit more work to put a polish on them. I still use it occasionally if I need to reset the edge on a pen knife but maintain them with a ceramic sharpener. If I didn't already have it, would I buy it today ? possibly not. Mark
  7. This discussion may help. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/88220-dyeing-technic-tahama/ Mark
  8. Aircraft yoke, this one is from actually from a flight simulator modeled on on a Cessna yoke. The section I assume the OP wishes to cover are basically straight with a taper.
  9. Hi arcrue That looks somewhat like some videos I've seen on a process called marbling, try searching here or youtube for marbling or marbled leather. Mark
  10. Hi Fcapela bikermutt is referring too Nigel Armitage. Mark
  11. Personally I like the look as it is, each to their own :-)
  12. Hi all, Thanks for taking the time to respond, apologies for tardy acknowledgement, I assumed the forum software would notify me of responses to my query which it didn't, I probably need to look at my preferences :-) Dwight, interesting idea, hadn't thought of that, will give it some serious thought although I might have the suede extending between the layers (appropriately skived). Matt, I know the facts on the strength of epoxy but murphys law (& my paranoia) tells me epoxy on non porus surfaces would let go and I'd lose the badge. Bob, still thinking this is my preferred option, I like the mechanical 'lock'. Mark
  13. Hi All I'm planning on a tri fold compendium style case for my iPad something like below but for some time have been mulling over how to decorate it with most of my ideas beyond my newby abilities. I've recently come up with one concept reflecting my Scottish heritage with two layers of leather glued together with a cut out in the top layer the shape of a clan crest badge and the badge itself set into that recess. This being on the outer flap. My problem is how do I fix the crest badge, there are several styles of crest badge with different fastenings to use as source, cufflinks, tie pin, tie slide, badge, all of these are roughly 2cm across. Cufflinks Tie Pin Tie Slide Badge I have no problem removing/modifying the existing fastenings on the back of the various styles but being low melting point pewter I don't have the knowledge/ability/equipment to solder anything to them and as the badge has open areas I cannot tolerate any glue squeeze out which would be immediately obvious. The other issue I have is to keep the entire assembly minimal thickness as any excess will make that flap stick up. So far my ideas are :- 1. Cufflink, remove the swivel pin and put the 2 remaining legs through the bottom layer of leather and fold them out although bending them may be difficult if they're steel depending on how hard the steel is as they can't be heated without affecting the pewter. 2. Tie pin, simply put the pin through the backing leather, although I feel that the badge would wobble around with only the single point support. 3. Tie slide, cut the back of the slide off but keep the front 'arms' and trap the arms between the layers of leather, with a skive to minimise the 'lump'. Probably glued and stiched to the back layer to keep it stable. So far I'm liking option 3 but any ideas would be most welcome.
  14. Hi, I noted this thread a while back, but not tried it so cannot comment on whether it would be appropriate for your situation, I'll be interested to hear how you make out.
  15. Hi Your profile does not mention where you are, if you’re downunder you can get knurling tools from Machiney House (Hare & Forbes), Amazon has them or just about any machine tool supplies will have a range to suit anything from a small hobby lathe up. As you mention making tools from stainless steel I imagine you’ve already discovered how SS work hardens, I’ve only ever used a knurling tool on mild steel, I would be very interested to hear your experience knurling stainless when you get going. Mark
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