Tim Schroeder

Is the T in their backwards sheilajeanne? Isn't it the wrong kind of T fitting? Unbelievable

It was for a door panel in a Old International Travel All. I had to tool another one, so that one is just a conversation piece. I have no use for it. I just let sit around to remind me to be careful.

It’s just trash now. Oh well live and learn. I’m a lot more careful now.

It Happens. Here's a good one. I put the dye in a very small round plastic container. Very hard to turn over. Barely a cap full of dye. Then I put a piece of plastic (trash bag) with a hand size hole cut in for the area I'm working on that covers the rest of the project. Still managed to pull this off. One of those ID 10 T errrerrs.

Bad ass is red neck for gorgeous, beautiful, wowser, and anything everybody else said. Maybe some of the best tooling I've ever seen.

That tooling is bad ass!!!! Makes me want to make something to see if I can improve mine to that level.

Thanks. Front and back are 5/6 oz Hermann Oak.

This one is for that ole boy my daughter is married to. It kinda matches his boots. I'll make him a roper wallet for Christmas and he'll be set.

Looks great Chuck. Making stuff for family is the best. I really want to make pen/pencil sets. My wife is in the corporate world so a lot of people would see them.

It’s something I cobbled up myself.

Finally found a good use for this servo motor. It is variable speed and reversible.

I was trying to make something thread couldn't get hung on. The small nut has the the big long nut locked on to the bolt so when you turn the handle it turns the bolt. There is a T nut in that block of wood so turning the bolt moves the T nut which moves the hinged side. You can tighten the long nut up against the stationary side until it moves freely but has no slack then tighten the jamb nut and it locks the long one onto the bolt. Half a turn and you can adjust the item you are sewing. You can always slide the handle off the nuts and reposition the handle depending on the thickness of what you are sewing so it's pointed slightly towards you. Half a turn away from you loosens it enough to reposition.

I've been working on tools the last week. I am getting ready to make my son in law a buck stitch belt so I needed a stitching pony. This one bolts to my last stand so it's really solid. The base to the stand is a fly wheel with the gear ring removed. The handle can be positioned straight up depending on the thickness of the material you are sewing. It's direct drive too so getting the correct pressure is easy. One turn moves the jaw 3/16". I just added the toe rest to the stand this week. The wood peg rasp is easy to use now that I lowered it a bit. The boot top stretcher in back ground sits on top of the stand as well. Just curios if anybody has any opinions on the best way to line or pad the jaws.

Finally worked on my last stand. A week before Christmas when I put my daughters boots together I couldn't even put last with a 7/16" bushing on my stand. I had a piece of wood closet rod so I drilled a 7/16" drill bit into it and left it in the rod and dropped it in the main tube and used that to build that last pair of boots. Now I have 3 different size pins that screw in. Their made out of a 5/8" stainless all thread. The base is a fly wheel I knocked the gear ring off of so the eye bolts screw in and are removable. If I'm building boots I'm working in my wife's formal dining room so I'm barefoot or in socks and kicking those eyebolts would hurt. Now I can leave rubber soles strap down over night while the glue dries. The shiny pipe for the toe support and the interchangeable piece are from an old Delta table saw fence somebody stole the fence too. I have a longer set of rails I'm gonna build a stand that will bolt on to the fly wheel to hold the heel while you tie a cable to the small hole in the last and the toe support bar to use like a lever and pull those hard to remove last. I saw the idea on a Lisa Sorrell video. I can drop the wood peg breaker/rasp into the stand and it's pretty steady. I'm making the regular last puller that will drop in the main tube. An 1 1/8" solid round bar with a 45 degree bend at the top. I saw this one in the fourth picture on You Tube. The boot top stretcher in the background sits on the stand as well. There is one waxed thread catcher when sewing on the welt but if I have problems with it I will just put a bolt in it and have to use a wrench to adjust it.