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Tim Schroeder

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About Tim Schroeder

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  • Birthday November 10

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  • Interests
    Leatherworking and Fishing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    No real specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Making Saddles and Boots

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  1. Yes still available. Head only, no motor, no table, no speed reducer.
  2. This machine is still for sale
  3. I’ll email you this evening
  4. Thats where Cobra puts there's. Yes I put mine there as well. It's mounted on the #24 bolt. I had to use some needle nose to open up the hole a little to get the #24 bolt thru it.
  5. Here you can the path of the thread with last thread guide in the 3 different positions. I have found videos on YouTube where they would skip the last thread guide completely.
  6. Going thru the bottom eyelet before wrapping around disc 1 1/2 times creates upper thread tension you can't get rid of. I looked up every manufacturer I could find, and Cobra is the only one who goes thru the eyelet before going around the disc. It is OK on bigger thread and needles but will never let you loosen the top tension enough to sew on the lighter end capabilities of this machine. You don't need another piece of leather. Don't go thru the bottom eyelet before going around the disc 1 1/2 times and tighten the bottom tension. I would still move the last thread guide to the inside of the faceplate.
  7. Simple fix. The diagram is in the thread RockyAussie is quoting. When you loosen set screw #31 it allows you to push part #30 over either way if you needed to. Once you move the needle bar over you will be able to straighten up the center walking foot.
  8. Good Looking work Bob. How you like that new Cobra.
  9. I went back and threaded my machine like Cobra does, and the thread is rubbing on the tension release arm/lever after exiting the first tension eyelet. I wouldn't think that would be correct. It obviously doesn't make any difference to the Cobra people. The original Juki machines aren't threaded this way. Anybody figure out why our edit button disappeared? Anybody that lost their edit button running Windows 11?
  10. I think exiting thru the first eyelet and then going thru the second eyelet before wrapping around the second tensioner just adds unwanted tension. I looked up every 441 clone I could find and Cobra is the only one who threads their machine this way.
  11. Try to feather everything. Shaders, bevelers and decorative cuts. Everything starts deep and feathers to nothing. When you cut the pattern try not to let any lines touch each other. I try to cut a little less than half way thru the leather and then bevel firm not hard and not soft. You can fine detail the inside corners with the background tool and modeling spoon. Point the shaders towards the middle of the flower and the center of the leaf or whatever they are. You can walk the shaders like the bevelers. A little tap tap tap as you are moving the beveler or shader. Bevel all the lines that run into another line first then bevel the ones they run into. Try to make the background area as small as possible. It's a lot easier to make a small area look good with bargrounders or a regular background tool. I trace outside my lines and then by the time you cut and bevel the background area will be the size it is in the picture. I do use some special swivel knife blades. The blade I cut the pattern with is a Leatherwrangler that has been ground down to .040 and decorative cuts with one ground down to .025. Standard is .0625 You can still make it look good with a standard blade. Depending on the leather you are using the tool imprints should be darker like burnishing. Especially the beveler and shaders. Usually if it's not leaving a burnishing color the leather is still to wet.
  12. Here's a tracing pattern and a picture to look at. Tool it as many times as it takes to get where you want. Use the same pattern every time. Eventually you will make those tools do what you want. A picture of what it should look like after beveling.
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