Jump to content

Tim Schroeder

CFM
  • Content Count

    743
  • Joined

  • Last visited

4 Followers

About Tim Schroeder

  • Rank
    Leatherworker
  • Birthday November 10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Leatherworking and Fishing

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    No real specialty
  • Interested in learning about
    Making Saddles and Boots

Recent Profile Visitors

19,561 profile views
  1. Good Looking work Bob. How you like that new Cobra.
  2. I went back and threaded my machine like Cobra does, and the thread is rubbing on the tension release arm/lever after exiting the first tension eyelet. I wouldn't think that would be correct. It obviously doesn't make any difference to the Cobra people. The original Juki machines aren't threaded this way. Anybody figure out why our edit button disappeared? Anybody that lost their edit button running Windows 11?
  3. I think exiting thru the first eyelet and then going thru the second eyelet before wrapping around the second tensioner just adds unwanted tension. I looked up every 441 clone I could find and Cobra is the only one who threads their machine this way.
  4. Try to feather everything. Shaders, bevelers and decorative cuts. Everything starts deep and feathers to nothing. When you cut the pattern try not to let any lines touch each other. I try to cut a little less than half way thru the leather and then bevel firm not hard and not soft. You can fine detail the inside corners with the background tool and modeling spoon. Point the shaders towards the middle of the flower and the center of the leaf or whatever they are. You can walk the shaders like the bevelers. A little tap tap tap as you are moving the beveler or shader. Bevel all the lines that run into another line first then bevel the ones they run into. Try to make the background area as small as possible. It's a lot easier to make a small area look good with bargrounders or a regular background tool. I trace outside my lines and then by the time you cut and bevel the background area will be the size it is in the picture. I do use some special swivel knife blades. The blade I cut the pattern with is a Leatherwrangler that has been ground down to .040 and decorative cuts with one ground down to .025. Standard is .0625 You can still make it look good with a standard blade. Depending on the leather you are using the tool imprints should be darker like burnishing. Especially the beveler and shaders. Usually if it's not leaving a burnishing color the leather is still to wet.
  5. Here's a tracing pattern and a picture to look at. Tool it as many times as it takes to get where you want. Use the same pattern every time. Eventually you will make those tools do what you want. A picture of what it should look like after beveling.
  6. DO NOT TOUCH THIS!!! This is where@Uwe is adjusting the timing of the hook in his video posted on this forum right now. When CowboyBob posted this, it was way to late, I had already done it just like Uwe told me to in the video. It's the same video I was using to set up my machine. The pointer and 2 dots on the handwheel make it much easier and faster to make the adjustments. It's where the Juki manual tells you to adjust the timing. Is that the engineer's manual everybody talks about. Cobra manual and the manual that came with my machine says do it in the front. Yet nobody who actually knows will come on here and clear this up. aaronthearcher"s machine got out of whack and needed adjusting. Anybody know what the Cowboy manual says. Probably says do it in the front since Bob posted this.
  7. Anybody with a Cowboy 4500 care to post how the Cowboy manual tells you to adjust the hook timing.
  8. I thought this was pretty interesting. I admit I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. I make a lot of those ID 10T errors. This is kinda confusing.
  9. Sorry about that @gregintenn I have contacted @Northmount and asked him to delete that post. Hopefully he will since it does actually contain misinformation.
  10. Yes, your correct, sorry about that. I apologize. No edit button. Can't fix it now. It was @Goldshot Ron that made that statement. It was just one of ID 10T computer errors. Sorry.
  11. @gregintennI think the leather was still too wet when you tooled it. I use Bob Parks way of casing and tend to get pretty results from his worthless method. I have been thru this discussion before was put in my place by somebody who uses the other method. I was TOLD here on this forum there is more than one way to skin a cat. (case leather) I'm not a master tooler like the guy who put me in my place who had been tooling saddles for 1000 yrs. So I tried the other way for myself and do not get the same results. If I could slap a little water on the leather and then let it dry a little while and go to tooling, I would use that method. I run my leather thru a sink or bathtub full of water until I quit hearing that noise. (if the bubbles quit coming out you might have gone too far, but it wouldn't make any difference anyway, just have to waite longer before starting) then lay it on my tooling bench and spray with a water bottle until it just starts to puddle, let it sit for 20 minutes then lay a piece of glass on it overnight. Piece of plastic works just as well because the water around the edge tends to seal off the edges. I let my leather dry until I can lay my paper tracing pattern on the leather and then put a piece of glass on it for a couple of minutes to keep the paper from wrinkling. I don't do a lot of tooling like a lot of people on this forum, just the occasional piece, but in 10 yrs since I started using Bob Parks method I have never gone thru the paper. If that's happening the leather is still too wet. Mushy with no color means the leather was still too wet. So, yes there is more than one way to case leather. My advice is based on my own experiences and not what somebody TOLD me. Just remember what all our OPINIONS are like. MINE is no different. You have to experiment for yourself to see what works for you.
  12. This thread is to inform people of their options. @Hildebrand if you don't like what I have to say don't read it. You have the same block option as everybody else. Learn to use it.
  13. Thanks everybody. Yes @YinTx. If anybody ever wants a copy of a tooling pattern I drew just let me know. I have every original drawing and a copy or two. I'll mail you a copy. Drawings are the toughest part. The flowers and inside of the circles are easy. It's those big blank spots outside around the circles. I used the Sheridan Style Carving book from Tandy when I first started drawing and then found Hidepounder on this forum. I bought his pattern drawing book too. His work is as good as anybody in the world. I drew a wallet pattern and tooled one every day for 5 days looking at Hidepounders work trying to make it look like his. You eventually figure out how to make those tools do what your eyes see. There's still a couple of them in the scrap heap. Still can't tool like him but getting better every time. I spent at least 6 or 7 hrs on that drawing and tooled it in about 9 hrs.
×
×
  • Create New...