Plates For Clicker Press

[Shorts]

What's the minimum thickness top and bottom plates need to be (on a 12T) for a clicker press. I prefer the plate stay good and flat over time.

[CampbellRandall]

What's the minimum thickness top and bottom plates need to be (on a 12T) for a clicker press. I prefer the plate stay good and flat over time.

I would not go any less that 1/2". Most clicker have a heavy beam and base to back up the pads, so thicker is always better.

[bruce johnson]

I use a 20 ton shop press for a clicker and have 1" steel plates under the pad and over the dies. Probably overkill.

[Shorts]

Thanks guys. I'm comparing prices on several thicknesses of plate from several suppliers up here. I don't understand how a fraction of an inch can make the price vary so much. But I don't know anything about steel work.

I need to stumble on some good scrap (read: cheap and free). Looks like 1/2" is the smallest I should go.

Bruce, those 1" plates are probably about 40lbs each right? Is the top welded directly to your crossbeam under the cylinder? You probably have some hefty return springs on it right?

[bruce johnson]

Monica,

My plates aren't welded on. The large bottom plate sits on the crossbeams. I have a piece of LDPE cutting board as a pad. I take a piece of steel big enough to cover the die entirely and center it under the ram of the press.

When I got my steel, it was going to be pricey to have it cut to my sizes. The office guy sent me to a yard guy who went through the cut-off scrap pile and came up with pieces close to what I wanted. A dozen doughnuts got that deal done. I went back later for some more scrap and it cost me $10. That was still a bargain.

[Shorts]

Monica,

My plates aren't welded on. The large bottom plate sits on the crossbeams. I have a piece of LDPE cutting board as a pad. I take a piece of steel big enough to cover the die entirely and center it under the ram of the press.

When I got my steel, it was going to be pricey to have it cut to my sizes. The office guy sent me to a yard guy who went through the cut-off scrap pile and came up with pieces close to what I wanted. A dozen doughnuts got that deal done. I went back later for some more scrap and it cost me $10. That was still a bargain.

Oh man, that's a pretty good deal! The way you're using your top plate is also what I'm doing right now with my small piece of plate that came with the the press. Now since I need a bigger plate to cover my bigger dies I thought I would fab a new top crossbeam w/integrated top plate in lieu of cutting off/using the original cross beam w/ram rod. I thought by doing this I'll get a more even application of force on the die. Plus I won't have to remove/replace the plate every time I punch a piece which gets tedious with one hand.

Well, I have a plan I guess. Now I have to execute

[bruce johnson]

Monica,

Texas Custom Dies sells a shop press with the top set up what I think you are describing. Someone emailed me a picture a while back. There might be a picture of it on their site. It looks like the framework bolts onto or through the top beam and then beefier return springs. That would sure make things easier for you.

[Shorts]

I finally got some 1" plate today. I think I'm going to figure out and build anew upper cross member so I don't have to lift/remove that plate each time I need to punch out a piece. The guys on the welding forum suggested a tool die press plate design that utilizes side posts and spring to support the top plate. I think that is overkill and frankly it limits the working space I'd have.

What I originally thought I'd do is build this: