Keeping Edges Vertical?

[Deanimator]

I do most of my leather cutting with a razor knife, in addition to often having to make multiple passes, I find that while trying to closely follow the outline of the holster and components, I end up angling the knife, creating a beveled or irregular edge, tapering toward the tip of the blade.

Does anyone tips on how to avoid this problem?

Thanks.

[NoahL]

I do most of my leather cutting with a razor knife, in addition to often having to make multiple passes, I find that while trying to closely follow the outline of the holster and components, I end up angling the knife, creating a beveled or irregular edge, tapering toward the tip of the blade.

Does anyone tips on how to avoid this problem?

Thanks.

I had the same problem until I switched to a round knife, and now there is just a little taper and I sand that out anyway.

[Spinner]

I had the same problem until I switched to a round knife, and now there is just a little taper and I sand that out anyway.

Looking at round and head knives, they look freaking huge for cutting leather pieces accurately...am I missing something?

I've never used one so now I am curious...

[steveh]

Looking at round and head knives, they look freaking huge for cutting leather pieces accurately...am I missing something?

I've never used one so now I am curious...

To a beginner the round knives can be intiminating. These knives come in various sizes and have different applications, that vary from skiving to pattern cutting, to filigree., a smaller knife serves well for cutting leather straight or curved. The knife needs to be very sharp and maintained that way.always practice safe work practices cutting away from your self and keep fingers clear of your cutting path. These knives take practice to master but is woth the learning curve as they are designed to cut leather.

steve

[gregintenn]

Try a hobby knife. The small, ultra sharp blade cuts easily, and is much easier to maneuver than a razor utility knife.

[Deanimator]

Try a hobby knife. The small, ultra sharp blade cuts easily, and is much easier to maneuver than a razor utility knife.

Are you talking about an X-Acto knife?

[gregintenn]

Are you talking about an X-Acto knife?

That's it! That one even has my favorite blade shape for cutting leather.

Edited August 7, 2010 by gregintenn

[gregintenn]

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1297963&cp=2568450.2629220.1259386

I actually have this kit. The one with the grooved plastic handle seems easier to hold on to than the slimmer metal handles.

[Deanimator]

That's it! That one even has my favorite blade shape for cutting leather.

That's what I use to cut out fine details (like small slots) in patterns and on components. I don't think it ever occurred to me to try to cut entire pieces from a hide using it. I take it you would need to make multiple passes.

[gregintenn]

That's what I use to cut out fine details (like small slots) in patterns and on components. I don't think it ever occurred to me to try to cut entire pieces from a hide using it. I take it you would need to make multiple passes.

No. I hold the leather at the edge of my work bench with my drawn pattern hanging off the edge. I hold the loose edge with one hand while I hold the exacto knife in the other, straight up and down, and with a gentle up and down motion, I cut along the lines of the pattern. It doesn't have to be perfect. After I glue the holster, I trim the edges with the same knife, and then sand them. It may be unconventional, but it works for me. I can't wrap my mind around how to use one of those round knives without wasting a lot of leather.

For belt slots, I cut the ends with a 3/16" hole punch. Then I draw lines from hole to hole, front and back, where the slot goes, and cut along the lines with the exacto knife. It is actually the only knife I use. I have even cut belt blanks out of double shoulders with it.

[Deanimator]

No. I hold the leather at the edge of my work bench with my drawn pattern hanging off the edge. I hold the loose edge with one hand while I hold the exacto knife in the other, straight up and down, and with a gentle up and down motion, I cut along the lines of the pattern. It doesn't have to be perfect. After I glue the holster, I trim the edges with the same knife, and then sand them. It may be unconventional, but it works for me. I can't wrap my mind around how to use one of those round knives without wasting a lot of leather.

For belt slots, I cut the ends with a 3/16" hole punch. Then I draw lines from hole to hole, front and back, where the slot goes, and cut along the lines with the exacto knife. It is actually the only knife I use. I have even cut belt blanks out of double shoulders with it.

My clip attachment paddle is gluing up tonight and I've traced the holster body onto my leather. I'll sew the paddle tomorrow and cut out the holster body. I'll put in a new blade and give the X-Acto knife a try.

Thanks.

[TomSwede]

Stropping the blade with the same tecnique as for swivelkives will add more edge to youur exactoblade making it even easier to cut.

Tom

[NoahL]

I actually used an X-Acto knife before I got the round knife--the round knife is much easier. I still use X-Acto knives for delicate cutting (inside belt slots, trimming sheath mouths, cutting out integral belt loops, etc) but the main pattern pieces are cut out with the round knife now

[Deanimator]

http://www.acehardwa...2629220.1259386

I actually have this kit. The one with the grooved plastic handle seems easier to hold on to than the slimmer metal handles.

I had one of those in high school in the '70s for doing woodcuts and airbrush stencils!

[cstephens]

Back to head knifes, how good are Damascus blades? And does anyone suggest the hole in the blade for a finger rest? Seems like it could waste a lot of blade Down The road...

[dirtclod]

I've never seen or used a Damascus bladed knife so i can say anything about that. Never have used a knife with a finger hole either. My finger is down by the side of the blade when i cut.

[cstephens]

I've never seen or used a Damascus bladed knife so i can say anything about that. Never have used a knife with a finger hole either. My finger is down by the side of the blade when i cut.

here is what i mean, i dont have any experience and was looking at buying this knife for $75 plus shipping and didnt know if it was a good investment.

[dirtclod]

If the seller is close enough drive over and try it out. It looks like it is probley made by a knife maker because most companies don't use a full tang blade and handle. If it real Damascus i don't know. The real Damascus takes alot of work to make. Ask the seller if you can return it if you don't like in a reasonable time if you have to order it. $75.00 is pretty cheap for a hand made knife i think.

[Mike Craw]

Hey cstephens!

I've never used a damascus blade round knife, but the damascus belt knives I own are all pretty good steel. Seems like making one out of damascus is more an exercise in blade making than an improvement over regular carbon steel. As for the finger hole, if you strop often enough to work your way back to where that hole is, you must cut a hell of a lot of leather!!

Mike

[cstephens]

After reading this, i don't see how i can go wrong with it. I'll see if he'll give me a few days to try it and send it back if it dosen't work out. Worst case i feel like i could get back out of it for that price. Tandys damascus knives are 150.00 and not as nice.

[RandyScott]

Does anyone tips on how to avoid this problem?

The suggestions to use a round knife is because the width of the blade, 4" - 6", makes it very easy to see when the blade is canted from the vertical. My mentor, with about 60 years of experience, has several head/round knives however he uses an 'angled utility knife'. He has three or four scattered around the cutting table. Here is a link to the Tandy product he uses: http://www.tandyleat...ture=Product_26 . Ergonomically it fits the hand well, therefore more 'controlled' power can be used to make a single cut through 8 - 12 ounce leather. And, keep that blade polished and strop often to keep that razor edge on the blade. His work is predominately on large stuff, knife sheaths and holster/gun belt rigs. I personally found that if I position my work light to shine directly down the line of cut toward me, then I could also use the shadow of the blade as it fell on the pattern to assist me in keeping the blade vertical. Just as in sawing wood with a handsaw, body position is very important in keeping the blade vertical and learning that comes with practice.

Some of the posts segued toward the Damascus blades, lot of money for a knife. I picked up two very nice and older CS Osborne head knives with 4" - 4.25" blades for less than $30 each plus shipping via EBay. Might want to try a less expensive tool to determine if you want the more expensive version. It took me a while before I was comfortable with my fingers anywhere close to those razor sharp head knives. I made very sure my fingers were behind the cutting edge. I still use them occassionally, however, I now use my angle utility knife for most cutting as I find it easier to control the cut and I can put more power into the cut.

[Lobo]

Now that everyone is all excited about round knives I'll add a comment or two.

In my shop we use heavy-duty scissors, specifically the Kobalt 9-1/2" Multi-Purpose model sold at Lowe's for about $25.00. With only a little practice these will provide very detailed and clean cutting of up to around 10-oz. veg-tanned. 6/7 or 7/8 is pretty easy to cut for anyone with moderate hand strength.

My first pair of these is about 2 years old. During that time I have touched up the edge twice with a diamond sharpening steel. The second pair has been in use for about 4 months with no sharpening needed. In perspective, we are turning out about 1500 items per year, so this is very low maintenance indeed.

I can cut about 8 holster patterns per hour with these. My apprentice is doing a dozen or more per hour. She does this work while sitting in a comfortable chair, listening to the radio, enjoying a cold drink, rather than standing over a work bench and trying to keep track of all her fingers with knives.

After assembly and stitching the edges are dressed with a sander, then beveled, and burnished as part of the finishing process. The results are excellent.

Now, rough cutting is a different matter. After marking out several patterns on a side of leather I use an electric sheet metal shear to cut around each one, setting it aside for detail cutting with the scissors. With this method I can have a dozen patterns roughed out of the hide and ready to cut in about 30 minutes. So overall cutting time for a holster pattern is about 7 to 8 minutes, which I doubt can be beaten by much with any knife work.

Keeping things simple works for me.

Best regards.

[Deanimator]

Now that everyone is all excited about round knives I'll add a comment or two.

In my shop we use heavy-duty scissors, specifically the Kobalt 9-1/2" Multi-Purpose model sold at Lowe's for about $25.00. With only a little practice these will provide very detailed and clean cutting of up to around 10-oz. veg-tanned. 6/7 or 7/8 is pretty easy to cut for anyone with moderate hand strength.

I think you're definitely onto something here. As I believe I mentioned, I tried using my grandmother's 50+ year old seamstress's shears, but they need a good sharpening. I got my tuckable M1911 IWB done this weekend, and for the most part managed to get pretty straight edges, which I cleaned up with a Dremel and sanding drum on a router speed control to keep the speed down.

I'll definitely have to give the Kobalt's a look since I actually walked past Lowe's today when I was out for exercise a couple of hours ago.

Thanks.

[Denster]

Hey Lobo! Thanks for the tip. I had to go to Lowe's this morning to return some excess roofing material. Went to check on the scissors and Lowe and behold they have them for $9.98. I have to cut patterns this afternoon and if they work as well as you say my poor old carpel tunnled wrist will thank you aslo.

[cstephens]

Ok I'm off the Damascus high but now I wonder about a new sensible knife. Are the new Osborne knifes worth the money? I can't stand to watch and watch on eBay to finally find a good knife only to be outbid by $2.00 because they snipe me. I did buy 3 pairs of wiss industrial low leverage scissors for 2 bucks each but I want to learn some more traditional ways as I am a more hobbiest then a businessman. Any suggestions for a decent priced quality knife for a beginner?