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I've read topics in the past that mention in passing what some do to the interior of ther holsters to make the leather more finished. Some simply burnish with gum tragacanth while others mention sanding to get a suede-like feel. In the past I have taken the long-cut by lining with pig skin but this causes more work and can grip the firearm a little too much. So, how do you work the flesh-side of your holsters to prevent the unfinished leather look? Please be as specific as possible with your techniques if you would as I have tried both of the above mentioned processes with little to no satisfactory results.

Edited by JoelR

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Joel:

I recommend against sanding the interior surfaces because grit from the sanding process can become embedded in the leather fibers and subsequently damage the finish of the handgun.

Any of the usual acrylics (Leather Sheen, Resolene) will do a good job of sealing the fibers and smoothing out the interiors. These can be applied prior to assembly and stitching if you like, and rougher spots can be slicked down while damp.

Bag Kote can also be used, and the waxy finish is very easy on handgun finishes. Good old Johnson's Paste Wax also works and provides lubrication at contact points for an easier draw. Paste wax can be applied after sealing with acrylic.

Best regards.

Edited by Lobo

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Thanks Lobo. Incidently, I do use Johnsons on the pig skin lined holsters that are a little tough to draw from. Haven't tried bag kote.

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Thanks Lobo. Incidently, I do use Johnsons on the pig skin lined holsters that are a little tough to draw from. Haven't tried bag kote.

Well, my two cents.........I never liked the appearance of unfinished leather on the interior of my early holsters. That's why now, all (except historically accurate) of mine are made from two layers of leather, bonded, flesh sides together. This produces a lined holster basically, but allows for a more firmly molded finished product (IMO) as well as a more finished appearance. As to drag on the weapon, I find no appreciable drag after molding and thorough drying at around 130 degrees. Of course it takes a bit more stitching, but my customers seem to appreciate the extra effort. JMHO Mike

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