Sewing With The Big Industrials...tips

[CDragonworks]

I keep seeing the same questions on here and as a designer and seamstress(and machine collector) I thought I might help out.

First thing I see is ...How can I slow this machine down?

My advise is don't! Learn to make your machine handle the way you want without the special controllers. It offers you more power and control over the machine. Here is how I teach people to sew on an industrial

Take off your shoes. Make certain you will not be disturbed for at least and hour. NO MUSIC or noise. Take out the thread and the bobbin,get a scrap of leather or two and just practice making it walk slow and controlling the direction. You will be surprised at the details you can stitch if you gain control or your speed. (I use them to do detailed topstitch) Now simply put your foot on the pedal and your rt hand on the wheel. start slow listen for the motor hum and feel the vibrations with your feet. Just that easy. If you are quick and sensative an hour and you will have gained major control. Never fear it can take longer.

The second I see is ...Where can I get a manual or instructions. GOOGLE... there is a MULTITUDE of sites that have them and places that have info on most older machines. the newer ones you may have to pay!

My final thought is this...it is a warning of sorts. Make sure you keep the gears oiled with high quality SEWING machine oil. On the older ones I use spray silicon on the under parts as well as the oil. It makes them run cooler and smoother. and even if it claims to be a self oiler check all the oilable parts to be sure it is...without oil your machine will tear itself up. Wear and tear are the biggest killer of these monsters. DO NOT USE 3IN1 Oil...EVER! Trust me if it sits even a few days after you run it it can gum up and stick and the mess you get requires a MAJOR cleaning..I use Carb Cleaner or Brake cleaner for this but it will remove paint and smells HORRID! Life with these babies is plain better without the headaches!

Good luck and have FUN with your industrial, Cat

[justinhw]

Thanks for the advice!

[CDragonworks]

I hope this helps! I love my machines!

Thanks for the advice!

[Wizcrafts]

I started sewing on industrial machines that had clutch motors and can feather the clutch to get very slow speeds. It is a technique that does require a steady leg and foot. Some can, some can't. But, one thing you can't change is the amount of electricity those 1/2 horsepower motors suck up, even when they are idling. A typical 1/2 hp 1725 rpm clutch motor draws between 300 and 400 watts per hour, without a load. They generate a lot of heat, which is blown around the room by the veins in the internal fan. Begin sewing and the wattage can increase to 500 or more watts per hour. A servo motor only draws power when you are actively sewing. The SewPro motor I bought from Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines has built-in gear reduction and a 2" pulley. It draws only 300 watts maximum, under full load, and I can't feel any heat coming out of it. I find this to be a cost saving (in kw hours) and heat reducing improvement from the original 1/2 hp clutch motor that was on the walking foot machine when I bought it.

I agree that almost anybody can be taught to feather a clutch, but some older crafters have involuntary muscle spasm or leg control problems, or reduced reflexes, and cannot control a clutch motor at all. A servo motor is a job-enabler for them. They can set the maximum speed to a setting they can live with, then use the entire pedal range to achieve slower speeds, that are easy to control.

[CDragonworks]

I agree for some older leather workers the Servo might be a great idea! M clutch motor is a 3/4 hp and I have never noticed heat being flung off it...and I have sewn for HOURS at a time making Jerkins in a high number. The old 1/2 HP that was on it when we got it did get hot and it blew out...wax everywhere. But it was OLD! I would just suggest that anyone who is not NEEDING the servo speed control learn to sew without it... I can make the machine go so slow it is crazy and so fast it is nuts...all in the span of an item if I am doing delicate topstitch I run slow and make LOADS of turns and curves...if I am doing a long seam I run it much higher speed...and when sewing patches on a horse blanket that is ripped up in large areas I run it at ludicrous speed! I am not saying everyone can learn or has the legs for it but most can! Thanks Wiz

[Trox]

Thanks for the tips!

Here is a other solution!

An old Adler class 5-27 machine I bought had a 3 phase 3/4 hp clutch motor on it. I living in Norway and I only have single-phase 220v current in my workshop. I had to convert it to single ph or installing three ph current in my workshop. Because of the distance to the fuse box, it would be expensive in cables and no other machine I had needed it. The second problem was the speed, I want it to slow down and be stronger. I called my brother who is an electrical engineers, he gave me a small box called frequency converter it solved both problems. It converts’ the current to single ph and let you adjust the speed. You can even adjust the torque on the motor and read all the data on when it runs. When I want to sew slowly, I set to 10 % of max rpm and 100 % torque and addition you have the clutch control. In addition, I set it up with a regular speed reducer to make the machine even stronger for sewing thick leather, and a potentiometer

To adjust the rpm without stopping the machine. I have used this solution for more than tree year, the motor is never warm, and it is very strong. The box I got free but it costs about only a tenth of a servo motor.

Trox

I keep seeing the same questions on here and as a designer and seamstress(and machine collector) I thought I might help out.

First thing I see is ...How can I slow this machine down?

My advise is don't! Learn to make your machine handle the way you want without the special controllers. It offers you more power and control over the machine. Here is how I teach people to sew on an industrial

Take off your shoes. Make certain you will not be disturbed for at least and hour. NO MUSIC or noise. Take out the thread and the bobbin,get a scrap of leather or two and just practice making it walk slow and controlling the direction. You will be surprised at the details you can stitch if you gain control or your speed. (I use them to do detailed topstitch) Now simply put your foot on the pedal and your rt hand on the wheel. start slow listen for the motor hum and feel the vibrations with your feet. Just that easy. If you are quick and sensative an hour and you will have gained major control. Never fear it can take longer.

The second I see is ...Where can I get a manual or instructions. GOOGLE... there is a MULTITUDE of sites that have them and places that have info on most older machines. the newer ones you may have to pay!

My final thought is this...it is a warning of sorts. Make sure you keep the gears oiled with high quality SEWING machine oil. On the older ones I use spray silicon on the under parts as well as the oil. It makes them run cooler and smoother. and even if it claims to be a self oiler check all the oilable parts to be sure it is...without oil your machine will tear itself up. Wear and tear are the biggest killer of these monsters. DO NOT USE 3IN1 Oil...EVER! Trust me if it sits even a few days after you run it it can gum up and stick and the mess you get requires a MAJOR cleaning..I use Carb Cleaner or Brake cleaner for this but it will remove paint and smells HORRID! Life with these babies is plain better without the headaches!

Good luck and have FUN with your industrial, Cat