Why Sew Leather, Inlaying, Groove, Thickness Etc

[HowlerSkeles]

I'm totally new to leather working and I would like to ask a few questions.

Leather Inlaying: I've heard that a lot of people like to glue the inlaid piece of leather to the back of their 'border', but I would like to know if I can sew it to the 'border'. Would that even work? My idea that I would apply this to would be a bronc halter nose piece. I would also like to know if I may successfully sandwich the inlaid leather piece between two other pieces of leather, making all pieces (all sewed together) one back piece, the inlaid piece and the front border. Would all of these pieces sewed together have the same or similar strength of their combined ounces?

Sewing Leather: Often I'll see a bridle that is sewn across the browband , down the cheek pieces and across the crown. Is this really necessary? Is it simply fashionable or does it actually help the leather keep its integrity? If it is truly needed or if it is optimal how should I go about accomplishing this? Do I need a sewing groove or a special needle/thread? May I use a Sewing Machine (I know you need a special sewing machine needle)?

Sewing Groove: Um.. What is it, how is it used, why is it used. Is it a guideline? Is it to keep the stitching from fraying or getting damaged? How is it applied and with what?

Thickness: I'd like to start my leather working hobby (if I may label it as such), with a simple project (and a willing model ). I would like to make a headstall either to sell or for my own personal use. Although, I'm sad to say I have no idea how thick the leather should be, and I don't know how wide it should be. I don't even know the measurements of a basic horse sized headstall, though, I'd like for the headstall to be adjustable.

Well, thanks for reading. I hope that the friendly and knowledgeable people on this forum can help me with my many questions, ideas, and future projects.

[EricDobson]

Sewing Groove: Um.. What is it, how is it used, why is it used. Is it a guideline? Is it to keep the stitching from fraying or getting damaged? How is it applied and with what?

Welcome! Most of your questions are beyond me as I'm also a beginner, and I have zero experience with horses... but I can help a bit with the groove question.

The groove is generally set in from the edge the same width as the leather is thick. It is used for the reasons you mentioned: it brings the stitches below the surface so there won't be nearly as much friction and they will last a lot longer. That's #1. But also it does serve as a guideline so the stitches are in a straight line a consistent distance from the edge. This is in combination with running an overstitch wheel in the groove, that marks where each stitch will go so they are evenly spaced. Another benefit to stitching in a groove is, it just looks better.

It's applied with a groover. I'm not sure if there's a more technical name than that. Here's a saddlemakers groover from Campbell Bosworth, I think the same one used in the video below. In this video he starts using the groover at 4:42:

I hope this helps!

[HowlerSkeles]

Cool, I've seen the groover before, just never knew what it was. Had a similar experience with the Bleed Knot . That's cool I'm glad I got to know that little bit of info before I start my first project. Thank you, Eric.

[katsass]

I'm totally new to leather working and I would like to ask a few questions.

Leather Inlaying: I've heard that a lot of people like to glue the inlaid piece of leather to the back of their 'border', but I would like to know if I can sew it to the 'border'. Would that even work? My idea that I would apply this to would be a bronc halter nose piece. I would also like to know if I may successfully sandwich the inlaid leather piece between two other pieces of leather, making all pieces (all sewed together) one back piece, the inlaid piece and the front border. Would all of these pieces sewed together have the same or similar strength of their combined ounces?

Sewing Leather: Often I'll see a bridle that is sewn across the browband , down the cheek pieces and across the crown. Is this really necessary? Is it simply fashionable or does it actually help the leather keep its integrity? If it is truly needed or if it is optimal how should I go about accomplishing this? Do I need a sewing groove or a special needle/thread? May I use a Sewing Machine (I know you need a special sewing machine needle)?

Sewing Groove: Um.. What is it, how is it used, why is it used. Is it a guideline? Is it to keep the stitching from fraying or getting damaged? How is it applied and with what?

Thickness: I'd like to start my leather working hobby (if I may label it as such), with a simple project (and a willing model ). I would like to make a headstall either to sell or for my own personal use. Although, I'm sad to say I have no idea how thick the leather should be, and I don't know how wide it should be. I don't even know the measurements of a basic horse sized headstall, though, I'd like for the headstall to be adjustable.

Well, thanks for reading. I hope that the friendly and knowledgeable people on this forum can help me with my many questions, ideas, and future projects.

Good morning, I'm not an expert at inlay. Actually, I don't care for the term. I learned long ago that most self proclaimed 'EXPERTS' can be determined to be (1) an EX...a has been, and (2) a SPURT...a drip under pressure. That said, I have done a few, and in so doing learned a bit about it. Inlay, as I know it, it is a 'sandwich' of leathers. A base piece, the inlay, and a top piece which is cut to reveal and define the shape of your inlay. I personally glue the inlay to the top ('border' as you call it) piece carefully. This is AFTER the 'border' is cut out, the inside edge is burnished and finished, and that piece is died (if you are going to do so). I then glue the whole flushdingering mess to the back, run a groove around the 'border' (just outside of the inlay) and stitch the whole mess together. I then treat the complete thing as a single piece of leather and complete my project. I enclose a pic of my first inlay holster, which was done in order for me to learn a bit about this type of work. It shows how NOT to do a couple of things already mentioned. First, when cutting out your 'border', mark it at the same time you mark your basic pattern.....a separate, overlay cutting pattern can slip....your inlay may then be skewed, as in this holster. Second, finish and burnish the inside edges of your 'border', as NOT done in this holster The one person that shows his fine, fine work on here is Dave Cole (DCKnives), look for some of his stuff on here and you will see some of the best there is. As to horse tack, I'll leave that up to those more knowledgeable. Take from this what you will, some consider my postings as the rantings of a grumpy old man. Hope this helps a little. Mike

Edited September 29, 2010 by katsass

[roo4u]

welcome to leatherworker. i will try to answer some of your questions, though by specialty im a braider.

in order to sew the kind of projects your talking about you would need a leather sewing machine. otherwise you will be sewing by hand, which isnt that hard but it takes practice.

do you have a tandy near you? they would be able to help you pick the right starter tools for what your wanting to do. for hand sewing i use an awl, a groover, and a stitching punch to make the initial holes and keep them evenly spaced.

go to some tack stores and look at headstalls you like...if possible take some basic measurements of width and thickness. there are a couple of books that have measurements for several different types of western headstalls and many other types of horse tack.

as to the inlay hopefully someone with experience will be able to answer that question.

[katsass]

welcome to leatherworker. i will try to answer some of your questions, though by specialty im a braider.

in order to sew the kind of projects your talking about you would need a leather sewing machine. otherwise you will be sewing by hand, which isnt that hard but it takes practice.

do you have a tandy near you? they would be able to help you pick the right starter tools for what your wanting to do. for hand sewing i use an awl, a groover, and a stitching punch to make the initial holes and keep them evenly spaced.

go to some tack stores and look at headstalls you like...if possible take some basic measurements of width and thickness. there are a couple of books that have measurements for several different types of western headstalls and many other types of horse tack.

as to the inlay hopefully someone with experience will be able to answer that question.

All good points! All of my work is hand (saddle) stitched........I learned stitching from a World War One 'horse soldier' (gives you an idea of how old I am) when I was about 17. He was a strict taskmaster. I learned by working on his broken tack. I don't do tack at all anymore! Getting the right tools is a necessity, and understanding your product is imperative. Mike

Edited September 30, 2010 by katsass

[TwinOaks]

A few more answers....

A lot of tack is sewn to either join two pieces of leather, or to increase it's durability. Stitching the leather helps to keep it from stretching, and you'll often find that tack is pretty thick because thicker=stronger.

Bronc straps are typically a good bit thicker than 'standard' tack because of the nature of it's intended use. While breaking a bronc, you most definitely don't want to have a piece of gear break and lose (what you think is) control.

Yes, you most certainly can use a sewing machine, and unless you just LIKE sore fingers, it's highly recommended. There are a lot of machines to choose from, and some are better than others. We have an entire sub-forum dedicated to the discussion of sewing machines, and there's more info there than I could retype in several years. My advice on a sewing machine is this: Buy the uppermost limit of what you can afford. Get more machine than you think you'll use, because you'll need it on the next job. One of the most popular and well reviewed types of machine is the clone(s) of the Juki 441, and variants. They'll handle a wide range of projects with ease. If you look at the Ad Banners at the top of the page, you'll see our advertisers. Just click on the links to find out more about them. A word of caution- For a good machine, EXPECT to pay upwards of $1500 dollars. Most of the "Industrial Leather Sewing Machine" you'll find on E-bay just don't have enough arse to do the job correctly. Stay away from the "head only" deals unless you're a sewing machine mechanic, or intend on becoming one. The advertisers selling machines here, have machines that are set up for power and control, and usually include a DC motor and a speed reducer. Standard 'industrial machines' use an AC motor that develops its power at high speed. They are built to run at 2-3000 stitches per minute in a factory setting. It may seem like a deal, but by the time you do the conversions, you've spent a good bit of money.

oops, looks like I got to rambling.....more info like this in the sewing machine forum.