Members Deanimator Posted October 2, 2010 Members Report Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) My strong inclination would be that it has something to do with the buyer wearing or drawing in some odd way. I'm by no means anorexic and use ONLY IWBs for larger guns, up to a 5" M1911 in length and a 3" S&W Model 65 in width. I have NO problems drawing, other than in tight confines like in an automobile. That's a well known issue. I never wear extra cover garments in warm weather and have a personal distaste for untucked shirts. That leaves me with tuckable IWBs or pocket holsters, both of which I make and use. As stated above, the belt is EXTREMELY important. With an IWB, lousy belt, lousy carry. Also every one of my IWBs has a reinforced mouth. I haven't found metal to be at all necessary. A strip of the same material used to make the holster body sewn at the top of the holster works just fine. My first IWB was one of the cheap Bianchis. I pitched it in a drawer after two days. It was EXTREMELY difficult to get the gun in the holster while on my body, so much so that I was afraid of the soft holster material near the trigger guard snagging the trigger and causing an ND. The clip was SO aggressive that I could barely get the holster over my belt and pants with my pants OFF. Attaching the holster with the gun in it while I was wearing my pants was a lost cause. I've had none of those problems with my Don Hume 715Ms or my own tuckable IWBs. Some things just aren't for some people. Edited October 2, 2010 by Deanimator Quote "When I was young, I looked like Al Capone but I lacked his compassion." - Oscar Levant.
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted October 3, 2010 Contributing Member Report Posted October 3, 2010 I see an immediate "problem" with the first holster. With no support at the back (trigger guard side) of the holster, it's left to lift and rotate using the clip as its pivot. The result is as the holster pivots, the draw transfers from "up through the big hole" to "trying to draw the weapon through the stitching on the trigger guard side of the holster. Adding in the extra( loop like on the second one should alleviate that "problem". The reason the word problem is in quotes is because for a crossdraw, it's in exactly the right place. It's not a problem of design, but implementation. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members Reaper Posted October 3, 2010 Members Report Posted October 3, 2010 Also the back where you have the leather to protect the weapon from the body sweat needs to be trimmed so that it does not end up betweem the thumb and pistol grip of it locks the weapon into the holster. Remember when one grabs their Rosco, they need it now and they are probably going to grip the hell out of it. Quote No sir, he fell into that bullet
Members jrvinny Posted October 6, 2010 Members Report Posted October 6, 2010 I agree with Reaper. The idea of having a body shield (or choose your favorite name for this feature) is to keep the sharp metal edges away from your skin. Guarding the grip from your side is not really an issue. It will inhibit your draw by keeping you from getting a full firing grip on the gun. You figure that out pretty quick when training and training with the equipment you carry is key. For me, I've found it's best to make it just large enough to cover the sharp parts and not so large that it bites you in the web of your hand on the draw. This photo shows a semi-auto but illustrates my point. The body shield follows the line of where your thumb falls naturally when gripping the gun. Quote
Members Deanimator Posted October 7, 2010 Members Report Posted October 7, 2010 I agree with Reaper. The idea of having a body shield (or choose your favorite name for this feature) is to keep the sharp metal edges away from your skin. Guarding the grip from your side is not really an issue. It will inhibit your draw by keeping you from getting a full firing grip on the gun. You figure that out pretty quick when training and training with the equipment you carry is key. For me, I've found it's best to make it just large enough to cover the sharp parts and not so large that it bites you in the web of your hand on the draw. This photo shows a semi-auto but illustrates my point. The body shield follows the line of where your thumb falls naturally when gripping the gun. The size and shape of the body shield is going to vary with the firearm for which the holster is designed. On my M1911 holster, it's quite big, because it's got to protect the body from the hammer at full cock, the tang of the grip safety and a reasonable array of adjustable sights, including fairly large ones. On the other hand, my 2" J-Frame Smith holster has no shield at all. The hammer and any rear sight sit below the mouth of the holster. My Glock holsters are in the middle. The Glock 22 holsters I make have a little longer body shield than those for the Glock 19. This is because I have a set of Pachmayr adjustable sights on my Glock 22. They project backward over the end of the slide. I didn't do this on the Glock 19 holster, since my Glock 19 has fixed sights and those guns are far less likely to have adjustable sights, especially ones the size of the Pachmayr. Quote "When I was young, I looked like Al Capone but I lacked his compassion." - Oscar Levant.
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.