I Wish Buy A Campbell But....

[aquaman]

Hi everyone!

I must start apologizing.

I know there are many post which talks about this , I looked at all with

carefully and have not found solution to my doubts.

Maybe it's because of my low level of English and is very hard for me could translate correctly. (I´m form Spain)

I'll try to write well and i hope you can understand me.

I need your opinion about this great sewing machine, i need know if will be suitable for the type of work I perform.

It is a very big money for my pocket and I must make sure I do.

My work will be luggage, briefcases, suitcases, bags, purses, wallets, holsters, etc.

Before meeting you I thought that all the sewing machines stitching in the same way. Now i know i was wrong.

This photo attached by a partner is very enlightening...

I wish I had the best machine possible and make the best stitch.

Within certain limits, no matter the money's worth.

I must admit I've fallen in love with Campbell.

Has a lot of positive things for me:

has recognized, is 120 years old and I love antiques, makes a perfect stitch...etc

There is, however, one question i have no clear... can you work comfortably with small leather goods like wallets and similar?

I saw a video in youtube where you can see sew a camera case to a very low speed and with absolute control over the seam.

Can you do the same with Campbell?

As I said before I want the best, is Campbell for me?

If not, which?

Thanks very much for your attencion and for your patience with my bad english.

[Ferg]

Hi everyone!

I must start apologizing.

I know there are many post which talks about this , I looked at all with

carefully and have not found solution to my doubts.

Maybe it's because of my low level of English and is very hard for me could translate correctly. (I´m form Spain)

I'll try to write well and i hope you can understand me.

I need your opinion about this great sewing machine, i need know if will be suitable for the type of work I perform.

It is a very big money for my pocket and I must make sure I do.

My work will be luggage, briefcases, suitcases, bags, purses, wallets, holsters, etc.

Before meeting you I thought that all the sewing machines stitching in the same way. Now i know i was wrong.

This photo attached by a partner is very enlightening...

I wish I had the best machine possible and make the best stitch.

Within certain limits, no matter the money's worth.

I must admit I've fallen in love with Campbell.

Has a lot of positive things for me:

has recognized, is 120 years old and I love antiques, makes a perfect stitch...etc

There is, however, one question i have no clear... can you work comfortably with small leather goods like wallets and similar?

I saw a video in youtube where you can see sew a camera case to a very low speed and with absolute control over the seam.

Can you do the same with Campbell?

As I said before I want the best, is Campbell for me?

If not, which?

Thanks very much for your attencion and for your patience with my bad english.

Do not know a thing about the machines you are asking about. Just needed to tell you, "Your English is fine, just wish some of the (Residents ???) of the USA could speak as well."

ferg

[Wizcrafts]

Yes, you can sew a camera case like that on a Campbell Randall needle and awl machine. You cannot mechanically sew in reverse with them, but, if you are careful, you can spin the work around and sew back through previously stitched holes. The needles have a barb near the top. The top thread is looped into the barb, then pulled down and around the bobbin, to form a lockstitch. The barbed needles tend to rip out previous stitches, unless you carefully position the barb to just miss the other stitches. Tricky, but I do it all the time on my Union Lockstitch machine.

Aside from the difference between types of needle, the main difference between the machine in your embedded video and a Campbell stitcher is the motor and drive system. The leather machines being built and sold today are using servo motors and often, speed reducers, to allow the precise control of the machine in the video. Furthermore, that motor has a needle position control, which allows you to use your heel to stop with the needle down. This is a no-brainer with those electronic positioners.

A needle and awls machine uses a constantly running motor that drives a belt that goes around a huge flywheel, which free-wheels on the back of the main shaft. When you turn on the motor, the flywheel spins, but does not engage the machine's mechanism. Only when you press down on the big drive pedal, does a lever push the flywheel into a circular clutch pad on the back to the main shaft of the machine. If you lightly engage (feather) the clutch, you can sew at very slow speeds. If you go all the way down you will sew at the maximum speed set by the ratio between the motor pulley and the flywheel diameter. On a Campbell machine the maximum stitching speed is usually set to about 300 per minute (5/second). This can be slowed down even more, with an optional, 2-speed - speed reducer assembly, to a bit over 2 stitches per second (125/minute), at full throttle.

I have sewn on a Randall and found it very easy to "feather" the clutch, for sewing one stitch at a time, without giving up the higher top speed, which some speed reducers force on you. There is a learning curve and you will go through a lot of thread and leather, but in the end you will be able to sew anything that fits under the pressor foot, including briefcases and some luggage. You limit is on the right side of the needle, where the body begins about 10.5 inches from the needle and awl.

Campbell Randall stitchers and use either bonded Nylon, bonded polyester, or left twist linen thread - run through Lax Wax in a wax pot (one on top; one for bobbins). The awls must be larger than the needle being used. A smaller number needle is for smaller gauge thread. A number 2 needle is equivalent to a #180 standard needle and is used with #277 bonded, or 5 cord linen thread. I use a number 2.5 awl with a #2 needle.

If you search on YouTube, you will find videos posted by the Campbell-Bosworth Company, showing their standard (for 3/4 inch sewing) and high lift (1 1/8") machines in action. Most people do just fine with the standard lift machines.

[TwinOaks]

Something else you must know is that the example of stitching looks to intentionally favor the Campbell.

The turn in the stitch was NOT done correctly with the Artisan machine. Performed correctly, the walking foot machines will NOT leave the marks on the leather that are shown.

No other type sewing machine will match the stitching of a 'needle and awl' machine, but the 'unison feed / triple feed' machines can still produce a MUCH nicer stitch than what is shown.

[Kevin]

I agree that the Artisan can do better, but the Campbell stitch would look better if the awl was twisted instead of straight.

Kevin

[CampbellRandall]

Aquaman:

Your English is fine. I also speak Spanish, so I'll post in both languages.

The Campbell machine is manufactured by my family's company. It is the oldest machine of its type still made today and it has lasted through the years due to its durability and stitch quality . The machines we sell are factory rebuilt. We manufacture all the internal parts, and we remachine the casting of existing machines to original specifications. A rebuilt machine will be perform like new.

Stitch Quality

What sets the Campbell apart, and the reason why it has not been replaced after 125+ years is the stitch quality. The Campbell was engineered to sew leather, and it replicates the process of hand sewing by first punching a hole and then making the stitch with a hooked needle. The needle and awl design makes a smaller and smoother hole than a single needle machine. Single needle machines were first designed to sew fabrics and webbing, and they are adapted to sew leather. If you compare the size and shape of a threaded needle compared to a Campbell, it is easy to see why.

The stitch quality on the bottom is also comparable to the top of the material. When sewing harder leathers on a single needle machine, it is common to see pucker marks on the bottom from the pressure of cutting the hole and threading in one pass. Softer leathers will cover this up better, but there can be a noticeably difference on the under side.

The Campbell feeds the material with the awl, and uses one presser foot. The presser foot is more adaptable to sewing closer to hardware and edges than walking foot machines that use two feet.

The tensions on a Campbell pull tighter than walking foot machines. The Campbell uses a systems of brakes that lock the thread while walking foot machines use springs and disks for tension. The brake system will pull tighter, enough to bury the thread into the leather.

The sample in your picture could have been made better, but if you compare the stitch of the two types of machine on the same leather, you will see a difference. For some the difference is not important and they prefer using a single needle machine which is easier to operate and cheaper. For those that want their sewing to be noticeably different, and quality is more important than price, the Campbell is best option.

Control of the Machine

We currently sell the machines with a custom table equipped with a clutch motor and pulley speed reduction system. You can select the speed by changing between 3 different pulley sizes. We had experimented with the servo motors commonly used today with other machines, but we were not satisfied with the power they produced. A machine like the Campbell weighs about 200lbs (head only), and the servo motor dose not produce as much torque at slow speeds at a clutch motor. For that reason we continue to use the clutch motor, although we are open to change if a better system can be developed. The design of the current motor table allows the operator to “feather” the clutch much like the clutch on a car with a manual transmission, and it is possible to run the machine one stitch at a time without touching the hand wheel.

We cannot compete with the cost of machines made in China, but our machine is close to the cost of name brand machines like the Adler 205-370 and the Juki TSC-441. We manufacture the machine in the USA, including all the parts. Since this is a specialized machine, we do not sell hundreds like other brands that can be adapted to applications besides leather, so our costs will be more. The quality however will be hard to match when compared to other machines.

If you would like, we can supply sample sewn on our leather or yours.

[CampbellRandall]

Aquaman:

No hay problema con su Inglés. También hablo español, así que voy a contestar en espanol.

La máquina Campbell esta fabricado por la empresa de mi familia. Es la máquina más antigua de de este tipo que todavía se fabrica y se ha perdurado a lo largo de los años debido a su durabilidad y calidad de la puntada. Las máquinas que vendemos estan reconstruidas. Fabricamos todas las partes internas, y maquinamos de nuevo la fundición de las máquinas existentes a las especificaciones originales. Una máquina reconstruida se realizan como nuevo.

Calidad de la Puntada

Lo que distingue la Campbell de otras máquinas , y la razón por la cual no ha sido reemplazado después de 125 años, es la calidad de la puntada. Campbell fue diseñado para coser cuero, y se replica el proceso de costura a mano por primera perforación de un agujero y luego se hace la puntada con una aguja de gancho. El diseño de la punzón y aguja hace mi agujero más pequeño y más suave que una máquina con una sola aguja. Máquinas de una sola aguja fueron diseñados para coser las telas y correas, y dispues están adaptadas para coser cuero. Si se compara el tamaño y la forma de una aguja en comparación con un Campbell, es fácil ver la diferencia.

La calidad de la puntada de la parte inferior es comparable a la parte superior del material. Al coser cueros más duros en una máquina con una sola aguja, es común ver a marcas en la parte inferior (el agujero explota hacia afuera ) debida a la presión que require de cortar el agujero y con el hilo en un solo paso. Cueros más suaves cubrirá este problema, pero se puede ver una diferencia notable en el lado inferior.

La Campbell se alimenta el material con el punzón, y utiliza un sola pie. El pie es más adaptable a coser cerca a el hardware y los bordes que máquinas que utilizan dos pies.

Las tensiones de la Campbell puede hacer un puntada más apretado que otras máquinas. Campbell utiliza un sistema de frenos que encerre el hilo. Otras máquinas utilizan una sistema de resortes y discos de tensión. El sistema de frenos tirará con más fuerza, lo suficiente para enterrar el hilo en el cuero.

La muestra en la imagen se podría haber hecho mejor, pero si usted compara la puntada de los dos tipos de máquinas en la misma piel, se puede ver la diferencia. Para algunos, la diferencia no es importante y se prefiere utilizar una máquina de una sola aguja que es más fácil de manejar y más barato. Para aquellos que exigen lo mejor, y la calidad es más importante que el precio, la Campbell seria la opcion preferida.

Control de la Máquina

En este momento vendemos las máquinas con una mesa especial, equipada con un motor con embrague y sistema de poleas para reducir la velocidad. Se puede seleccionar la velocidad al cambiar entre 3 tamaños diferentes de polea. Hemos experimentado con los motores servo que estan utilizados en la actualidad con otras máquinas, pero no estuvimos satisfechos con la fuerza que producen. Una máquina como la Campbell pesa alrededor de 200 libras (cabeza sola), y el motor servo no produce tanto torque en velocidad baja como el motor con embrague. Por esa razón, utilizamos el motor con embrague, aunque estamos abiertos al cambio si un sistema mejor se desarrolla. El diseño de la mesa permite que el operador aplica toques al embrague, tal como el embrague en un coche, y es posible manejar la máquina puntada por puntada, sin tocar la rueda.

No podemos competir con el costo de las máquinas hechas en China, pero nuestro equipo está cerca de el costo de las máquinas de marca como el Adler 205-370 y la Juki TSC-441. Fabricamos la máquina en los EE.UU., tal como los repuestos. Como se trata de una máquina especializada, no vendemos cientos como otras marcas que se pueden adaptar otras aplicaciones además de cuero. Por eso el costo será más. La calidad sin embargo, será difícil de igualar, en comparación con otras máquinas.

Si lo desea, podemos coser muestras en nuestro cuero o el suyo.

Edited October 4, 2010 by CampbellRandall

[aquaman]

Hello all!

I want to thank your responses. They have been very important to me.

It's amazing how new technologies ,like Internet, allow them to communicate a few years ago would have been impossible.

I am impressed with the assistance you have provided me, once again let me thank you for your help.

I'm glad the English to study at school when I was little (along with the great help of "google translate") serves to make me understand.

I am very pleased that the Campbell works with my future job.

It really seems harder to handle than new machines with servo but I think worth the effort to learn to manage it properly.

I definitely think it will be my machine.

Regards

Muchas gracias CampbellRandall por la explicaciones y por hablarme en Español.

Proximamente me pondré en contacto con usted via e-mail.

Un cordial saludo.

[awharness]

I want a campbell in the worst way! If I was to go to Tx, I would go check the machines and options out first hand, and probably end up picking one up with the accessories, presser feet to sew Rounds and raised work and up the the buclkes!

[Wizcrafts]

I want a campbell in the worst way! If I was to go to Tx, I would go check the machines and options out first hand, and probably end up picking one up with the accessories, presser feet to sew Rounds and raised work and up the the buclkes!

The Union Lockstitch you traded to me does all that too. There are pressor feet and throat plates for round reins, raised work (holsters, stirrups, buckles, snaps), beaded line steppers and even a stitch in the ditch set. There is even a special foot used by Wilson to sew footballs. You should have held onto it!

I agree though; it would be nice to own a Campbell Randall! Nothing sews holsters, straps or harness like a Randall. I had my chance when Sam Friedman offered to sell me one of his. If only ...

[awharness]

Bob, that Union got the best of me! I hate to admit it, but it did! Ah we can only dream right? I'll get a Campbell one of these days... How goes things in Flint? I was going to email Campbell Randall to get a price on a new machine about an hour ago... TOO TEMPTING!

The Union Lockstitch you traded to me does all that too. There are pressor feet and throat plates for round reins, raised work (holsters, stirrups, buckles, snaps), beaded line steppers and even a stitch in the ditch set. There is even a special foot used by Wilson to sew footballs. You should have held onto it!

I agree though; it would be nice to own a Campbell Randall! Nothing sews holsters, straps or harness like a Randall. I had my chance when Sam Friedman offered to sell me one of his. If only ...

[Wizcrafts]

Bob, that Union got the best of me! I hate to admit it, but it did! Ah we can only dream right? I'll get a Campbell one of these days... How goes things in Flint? I was going to email Campbell Randall to get a price on a new machine about an hour ago... TOO TEMPTING!

Andrew;

Things are moving along not too badly, considering where I live. I just built a holster for an 8" bbl Dan Wesson .45 LC revolver, with bullet loops sewn on the front, on my (your ex) ULS machine. The ULS has no trouble at all penetrating 4 layers of 8+ ounce veg-tan leather. I use #277 bonded nylon most of the time, but occasionally, #346 polyester.

If you do buy a Campbell Randall, get some #346 bonded polyester thread with it and various sizes of needles and awls, plus lots of bobbins. If you opt to buy linen thread, I recommend 4 and 5 cord Barbour's Irish Linen, left twist, and a gallon of Lax Wax. The cheaper Hungarian linen thread is not as well smoothed and bonded and has lots of loose "hairs."

It's too bad we live so far apart. If we were in the same area we could split the cost and use of a Randall! I understand that Dan sells them fully rebuilt for under a gazillion dollars!

Edited October 5, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[awharness]

Andrew;

Things are moving along not too badly, considering where I live. I just built a holster for an 8" bbl Dan Wesson .45 LC revolver, with bullet loops sewn on the front, on my (your ex) ULS machine. The ULS has no trouble at all penetrating 4 layers of 8+ ounce veg-tan leather. I use #277 bonded nylon most of the time, but occasionally, #346 polyester.

If you do buy a Campbell Randall, get some #346 bonded polyester thread with it and various sizes of needles and awls, plus lots of bobbins. If you opt to buy linen thread, I recommend 4 and 5 cord Barbour's Irish Linen, left twist, and a gallon of Lax Wax. The cheaper Hungarian linen thread is not as well smoothed and bonded and has lots of loose "hairs."

It's too bad we live so far apart. If we were in the same area we could split the cost and use of a Randall! I understand that Dan sells them fully rebuilt for under a gazillion dollars!

I am going to get one Bob! I am glad that you have the ULS up and running! I started on four quick hitch work harnesses last night I want to get them done by next week, and I will start a Campbell Randall fund! After buying a used ULS, I think when I get a new needle and Awl, it will be NEW NEW and all up and working! That adler runs great still, sewed some saddle pads on it the other day, but it doesnt get a 1/10th of the work the 441 clone does!- it does sew better

[Wizcrafts]

I am going to get one Bob! I am glad that you have the ULS up and running! I started on four quick hitch work harnesses last night I want to get them done by next week, and I will start a Campbell Randall fund! After buying a used ULS, I think when I get a new needle and Awl, it will be NEW NEW and all up and working! That adler runs great still, sewed some saddle pads on it the other day, but it doesnt get a 1/10th of the work the 441 clone does!- it does sew better

When you do make the trek to Campbell-Bosworth, stay onsite a while and learn all you can about not only threading and operating, but also adjusting the Randall stitcher. Bring some harness traces and practice sewing them at the factory. Try different threads you are interested in using to find the ones you want to stick with, then buy a sufficient quantity with the machine. Ask for assistance if you have trouble. Dan will show you what you are doing wrong, just like Sam Friedman showed me.

Let me know when you make the trek. I may want to tag along.

The Adler 204-374 is a fine machine, but is inflexible. Just changing the needle size often requires you to change a spacer in the shuttle. It is what it is and nothing more. The Union Lockstitch and Randall can become what you want them be be, as can the Juki 441 and its clones.

Randall and Union Lockstitch machines are basically one-man machines. They get to know you and you get to know them. You both reach an understanding with each other and outsiders cannot use them as well as the owner can. That is how God intended it to be.