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I'm pretty new to fixed blades in general and specifically to Swamp Rat knives. But, got my first as a b-day present recently (yeah, I had a considerable amount of input regarding the present!).

So, it's such a fine looking knife that I decided it needed a nice leather home. As some on here know, I have some experience in leathercraft, making custom watch straps, but have/had never tried to make a knife sheath.

I don't have a sewing machine as I hand-stitch all my leather watch straps. So, I decided to take on the project with only hand stitching. Wow, it's tough getting stitch holes punched through four thicknesses of fairly tough leather. It's also tough hand saddle stitching through those thicknesses.

I would never consider this commercially, but if I did, I would HAVE to have a machine. Much respect to those makers that do this for a living! And, I must say that I did borrow some design ideas from several makers. Again, this is not a commercial venture, just a one-off for my own use!

Anyway, enough of that, here are the pics:

First, the knife:

Ratmandu1.jpg

And then the sheath:

sheath1.jpg

sheath2.jpg

sheath3.jpg

Thanks for looking. Let me know what you think.

Cheers,

Savage

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Fantastic sheath!! Overall proportions look good and the edges....wow. You sure you don't wanna make knife sheaths too?

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great work bud ,,,very very well done ,,,,,thanks for sharing it with us .....Doc...

Edited by terrahyd

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Looking great and I too wonder if you shouldn't consider making Sheaths on a regular basis also.

I have seen some fantastic custom knives made and then the maker throws sheath together as best they can, wrapped in a sheath such as the one here would only make the Knife more appealing and valuable in my opinion for what it is worth.

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That is some extremely clean work. Great job.

+1

As usual, Savage, your stitching stands out beautifully. . . very professional and straight. Can you share any special tricks you use to achieve this?

Thank you.

Micah

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+1

As usual, Savage, your stitching stands out beautifully. . . very professional and straight. Can you share any special tricks you use to achieve this?

Thank you.

Micah

Not really anything special. I learned from the Stohlman book and have been doing it for a few years. I'm very, very careful about how I punch my stitch holes (individually with a diamond-shaped awl) and the rest is just repetition and tweaking over the years. A very sharp, quality awl is extremely helpful. With this many layers of leather, strong fingers are a must!

Thanks.

Savage

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heh, if ya don't have strong finger to start you sure will by the time you can hand stitch em, huh? lol

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heh, if ya don't have strong finger to start you sure will by the time you can hand stitch em, huh? lol

Yeah, I end up using a pair of pliers stitching together two layers of 8/9 oz and one layer 4/5 oz. I'm figuring I need to use a smaller needle. . .

Thanks for the comments, Savage. I just see work like yours, Rocky's, Handwerker's, and others' and end up wondering how you get such beautifully clean and straight stitch lines. . . I don't have a stitch groover, but I usually try to put a crease along the edge for the thread to ride in. Does the use of a groover make it easier to keep the holes so straight and parallel to the edge?

Again, thank you for posting. I appreciate the sharing of such fine craftsmanship.

Micah

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Yeah, I end up using a pair of pliers stitching together two layers of 8/9 oz and one layer 4/5 oz. I'm figuring I need to use a smaller needle. . .

Thanks for the comments, Savage. I just see work like yours, Rocky's, Handwerker's, and others' and end up wondering how you get such beautifully clean and straight stitch lines. . . I don't have a stitch groover, but I usually try to put a crease along the edge for the thread to ride in. Does the use of a groover make it easier to keep the holes so straight and parallel to the edge?

Again, thank you for posting. I appreciate the sharing of such fine craftsmanship.

Micah

I should have commented on grooving. I grooved the back side, but didn't groove the front. I ordered this leather for other purposes and, while it's veg tan, it's been staked and softened up quite a bit. Therefore, the grain side is much softer than tooling leather or other leathers that might be used for holsters, sheaths, etc.

So, I find that when I tighten my stitches, the thread sinks down into the grain side far enough for my taste. If I groove the grain side, it sinks too far for my liking. I did the back because it will get the most wear/friction. I wanted to make especially sure that the thread was down below the top level of the leather.

It should be noted that grooving will tend to keep those slightly "off" stitches in line. It's not magic, but it does help a little.

One point. My stitch holes are never parallel to the edge. Per THE BOOK, they are always angled at about a 45 degree angle away from/toward the edge (depending on your perspective and whether we're talking about the top or bottom of the hole).

Hope this helps.

Savage

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Suuuuuuuwwwweeeeettt looking sheath! Very well done.:You_Rock_Emoticon:

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One point. My stitch holes are never parallel to the edge. Per THE BOOK, they are always angled at about a 45 degree angle away from/toward the edge (depending on your perspective and whether we're talking about the top or bottom of the hole).

Exactly. . . what I was referring to was the fact that your stitch line itself parallels the edge very nicely, especially on the front. Thank you for the advice.

Micah

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Exactly. . . what I was referring to was the fact that your stitch line itself parallels the edge very nicely, especially on the front. Thank you for the advice.

Micah

Ah, sorry, missed that distinction. I make a faint mark on the perimeter of the leather so that I have something to run the overstitch wheel down when marking for the holes. Over the years I've gotten pretty good at making sure the overstitch marks are exactly on that line (if not, you can always adjust of course). Then it's just a matter of actually getting the awl on that mark and exactly straight going through all the layers to the back. This was the hardest part for me. It's pretty easy with two thicknesses, but when you get to four, your awl better be pretty damned sharp and your hand better be pretty damned steady and true.

Savage

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Awesome job. I am currently working my first Knife sheath. I hope that I can make it close to half as good as yours. I know it will be good if I can.

Rickey

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