Setting Copper Rivets

[SimonJester753]

Has anyone used a rivet squeezer tool like any of these to set copper rivets rather than hammering them with a rivet set?

https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=613

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82a.htm

I'm looking for a quiet way to set copper rivets, as I work in an apartment and don't want to disturb the neighbors.

[DJ1935]

What size copper rivets are you setting?

[Kevin]

Those tools look like they're for tubular rivets. I think if you squeeze a solid copper rivet, it will just bend (ok, I know it).

I think if I were back in an apartment ... marble or granite slab on the bed, leather on top of that, anvil on the leather, hope the slab doesn't break and all the neighbors will hear is tink, tink, tink. It will bounce up and down some, but if everything is tight and solid, it should work.

Good luck,

Kevin

[Shorts]

Has anyone used a rivet squeezer tool like any of these to set copper rivets rather than hammering them with a rivet set?

https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=613

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82a.htm

I'm looking for a quiet way to set copper rivets, as I work in an apartment and don't want to disturb the neighbors.

Hmma quick google of "rivet squeezer" and "setting a solid rivet", you might be able to set a copper rivet with one of those hand squeezers. But having never tried it, I have no idea. I think you'd need good leverage.

If I were you I'd send a email off to those sites customer servoie and see if they can answer the question.

[SimonJester753]

The squeezer tools are for tubular and solid rivets.

TOOL CAPACITY

Solid aluminum rivets

up to 1/8" diameter

Solid mild steel rivets

up to 3/32" diameter

Tubular mild steel rivets

up to 3/16" diameter

Stroke: .355"

I don't know how copper and aluminum compare, but steel is harder than both and it can handle up to 3/32" solid steel rivet and it will do 1/8" aluminum. Right now I have #12 copper rivets, which look to be about 1/8" diameter. They're the kind with the countersunk heads you see sold for leather work.

I'm thinking about some other head styles, just for decorative reasons, (domed, nail head, etc.).

I'm thinking it should work. What I'm really curious about is what does the peened end look like when it's done with this tool?

Edited October 16, 2010 by SimonJester753

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

They can be squeezed since a lot of home builders of AK-47's use modified bolt cutters to squeeze the STEEL receiver rivets. Those are a lot cheaper then those tools too.

As I have done some blacksmithing I can tell you some of the ways we deaden the anvil"s ring.

Use a cast iron anvil, not cast steel, or forged steel. A lot of inexpensive anvils (ASO's anvil shaped objects) are pure cast iron, and lack the tool steel top that smiths need for serious forging. A cast iron anvil like my 260# Fisher has more of a thump, than the deafening ring of my 306# Sodefors anvil. An anvil is essentially another larger hammer that backs up the hammer that you are swinging. Having more mass under the hammer will increase the effective impact of the blow by the hammer.

Chain wrapped around the waist, large magnets attached under the heel/horn, and mounting solidly to a heavy, and sturdy base will also help deaden ring. The chain, and magnets help by dampening the vibration in the anvil as it is hit. When an auto machine shop turns brake drums, and rotors they wrap a rubber belt around the exterior to dampen the vibrations. With a small anvil a big rubber bungee cord may do the trick.

All of that is moot if the bench it is sitting on amplifies the sound. Wood is an excellent conductor of sound. Some smiths put their anvils in cut down barrels filled with rock, and sand that comes up over the feet to kill ring. It is all about dampening vibration. If the bench is on a wood, tile, or other hard surface it will be loud for the neighbors even during tooling. You will need to isolate the bench from the floor, and wall in order to contain the vibrations.

I take it that you are upstairs in the complex. Depending on how many rivets you will be setting, time of day, etc it may be an unnecessary concern. Talk to your neighbors, and let them know that if you are too loud to just let you know. Who knows you may get someone else addicted to leather working.

[SimonJester753]

They can be squeezed since a lot of home builders of AK-47's use modified bolt cutters to squeeze the STEEL receiver rivets. Those are a lot cheaper then those tools too.

As I have done some blacksmithing I can tell you some of the ways we deaden the anvil"s ring.

Use a cast iron anvil, not cast steel, or forged steel. A lot of inexpensive anvils (ASO's anvil shaped objects) are pure cast iron, and lack the tool steel top that smiths need for serious forging. A cast iron anvil like my 260# Fisher has more of a thump, than the deafening ring of my 306# Sodefors anvil. An anvil is essentially another larger hammer that backs up the hammer that you are swinging. Having more mass under the hammer will increase the effective impact of the blow by the hammer.

Chain wrapped around the waist, large magnets attached under the heel/horn, and mounting solidly to a heavy, and sturdy base will also help deaden ring. The chain, and magnets help by dampening the vibration in the anvil as it is hit. When an auto machine shop turns brake drums, and rotors they wrap a rubber belt around the exterior to dampen the vibrations. With a small anvil a big rubber bungee cord may do the trick.

All of that is moot if the bench it is sitting on amplifies the sound. Wood is an excellent conductor of sound. Some smiths put their anvils in cut down barrels filled with rock, and sand that comes up over the feet to kill ring. It is all about dampening vibration. If the bench is on a wood, tile, or other hard surface it will be loud for the neighbors even during tooling. You will need to isolate the bench from the floor, and wall in order to contain the vibrations.

I take it that you are upstairs in the complex. Depending on how many rivets you will be setting, time of day, etc it may be an unnecessary concern. Talk to your neighbors, and let them know that if you are too loud to just let you know. Who knows you may get someone else addicted to leather working.

This is my anvil:

https://www.tandylea...duct_2&kw=anvil

It's mounted to a piece of 3/4" plywood held down to my workbench with "C" clamps. The bench is a formica over particle board counter on top of metal file cabinets on wheels.

I've got one apartment above me, one below me, it's a brick row house. It's funny how I can hear the neighbors next door. There is a gap between the buildings, (couple of inches at best), yet the sound comes through 2 brick walls. I assume they hear me as well.

I thought about a squeezer tool because I have a tool to work with cable that crimps the ferrule to make a loop at the end and I figured that kind of leverage should be able to flatten a rivet.

Edited October 16, 2010 by SimonJester753

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

That bench will probably make a lot of noise with any pounding on it, rivets or anything else for that matter.

Do you have a rec room that you could use to do your work in?

With that little anvil you really can't give the rivets a good smack to set them. Even a large chunk of steel from a scrap yard would be better in my opinion. Even though it might ring some, you will be able to set them with fewer blows.

A squeeze tool will work. Google riveting jaws for AK 47 rivets, and see what you come up with. Also check Craigslist for tools Craigslook will search all CL for you.

[lilwillie]

I have the same question - what's a good quiet solution to setting a copper rivet?

Would a hand bench press like this work?

http://www.hidehouse...BenchSetter.jpg

Thanks

[SimonJester753]

I sent samples of some rivets with burs through some leather to a company that makes aircraft tools. Their squeezers can work on steel rivets, so I'm hoping copper will work.

I have to call them to see if they've tested it yet.

I think the model you show is for rapid rivets. I'm not sure how heavy duty it is.

Edited February 17, 2011 by SimonJester753