Vinegaroon toolbag

[rdb]

For the record...this is the third day after dyeing, and the smell has gone away. It is amazingly waterproof, not weatherproof. Twin Oaks was trying to discover the chemistry of it, I can't answer to that, but I do know, that I gave it a second bath of baking soda, and the liquid just washed off the top grain, and on the flesh side just beaded up. Nothing need be applied as a protective finish. Water just runs off. It actually held water in the bag with not a drop coming out. AMAZING!.

I did give it another coat of Mink oil, and it buffs out nice to a flat black. I think I will never use another method for doing black again. Nothing rubs off...even color, waterproof, and no black on my hands or bench.

Seatmakers take notice!

I can't wait until I can find a source for walnut shells. Homer says.."hmmmm...Brown!"

[ChuckBurrows]

I can't wait until I can find a source for walnut shells. Homer says.."hmmmm...Brown!"

here's one source - Grand River Trading Co www.kylecarrollart.com

Be aware walnut color will generally run more to a greyish brown rather than a true brown

For brown you can also use logwood crystals or something I've been experimenting with - just dunk the plain leather in a bath of baking soda and water - depending on time immersed, strength of mix, and the leather I've gotten from a nice tan to a dark almost black brown. Like the vinegaroon it will "harden/stiffen" the leather (aniline dyes do to..) so the piece must be well re-conditioned. So far for me it's tough to control though so I suggest using a test piece of the same leather and counting down the time.

When using the vinegaroon I: dunk, let set until all the liquid is absorbed, dunk again, let set, then rinse off (distilled water is best since no extra chemicals), dunk in baking soda and water mix, rinse again with water, wipe off excess moisture and then add a coat of conditioner (I generally use Lexol or Non-Greasy Neatsfoot depending on the look/need/end use). Let half dry and condition again while damp. For a finish coat I may use Bag Kote or Montana Pitchblend again dependent on look/need. The tough outer surface is IMO from the leather "tightening" up due to the chemical reaction and the loss of conditioner. Be sure and re-condition otherwise crackling of the surface can happen.

[rdb]

I was hoping you'ld chime in Chuck...thanks. I know you've had a bunch of experience with this stuff. I see logwood crystals are available from suppliers of trapping equipment...just might have to try some.

We have to depend on each other for this info. Google vinegaroon dye, and you find very little info, even in their Scholar searches, none of the scientists seem to have anything about it. A few other forums discuss it, but not too in depth.

A search under "natural dyes on leather" has a lot more info, well worth exploring.

We take a lot of heat for using leather nowadays, and have very few alternatives to "green up" our business. There is no PBS Woodright guy for leatherworkers (although that would be a great show!).

Unless you become an expert tanner, silversmith, foundry buckle and hardware maker, etc, we have to rely on the usual sources.

Not everyone has the location or space to do their own raising animals, skinning, then "brain tanning", to keep it natural. Me for one, I'll try and incorporate as many of these things as I can. As far as this one is concerned, maybe the old way just might be best even in this modern world.

Thanx everyone for participating in this discussion. Between the other two Topic discussions, and this one, I hope there's a few adventurers, who'll report on their findings in another Topic.

[TwinOaks]

This is heading just where I hoped it would- Other Colors. I'm really impressed with the tonal qualities of doing leather this way, and I'm hoping someone will have a suggestion for other colors. Why oh Why didn't I pay more attention in Chemistry.....

[TroyWest]

Hey rdb,

Glad you found success using this recipe. Didn't you find it cheap, efficient, and effective?

The things I have dyed with this method look great, feel great, and have no negative smell at all. I actually have orders for some saddles I'll be coloring this way. There are many old saddles dyed this way with all types of hardware attached.Iron, bronze, silver, etc. and they haven't disentegrated. I am glad Chuck Burrows added his comments as he obviously has more experience with this method than I do. Thanks for posting your pictures and comments. It will be a few months before I have a saddle dyed this way, but I'll try to get a picture up.

Troy West