Straight 4-Seam Braiding?

[Lasse C]

HI!

When I braid 4-seam work (such as whips, dog leashes, etc) the work has a slight tendency to twist. In some two-tone work I have deliberately used it as an effect (turned out nicely, btw), but often it is not desireable.

I have managed to reduce this twisting tendency to very little, but it is really difficult to eliminate it completely. I am also uncertain as to what causes this twist. It is obviously something I do (or do not do), but I can not figure out exactly what. Even when I take great care to make the braiding even, and pull with equal force on both sides, etc, this twisting tendency can occur.

If nothing else, I´d like to know what causes it in order to control it - in other words to get it when I want it and eliminate it when I don´t!

Tips, anyone?

Lasse C

[Aggiebraider]

When you say 4 seam, I assume you mean something along the lines of doing an 16 strand O2U2O2U2 braid. The first thing I was going to suggest was that you were pulling too hard on one side, but it seems you already thought of that. The only other thing I can think of would be how your belly looks. If your belly has somewhat of a twist to it, the overlay will amplify that. I have seen this in some of the cores I used. I have tried making my own cores for things like dog leashes and romal reins by taking a piece of thick leather, beveling the edges of it and tried to make it as round as possible. There was a light twist to it and it caused the braid to end up twisted over top of it. You may also be starting the twist when you actually set up the strands to start braiding and as you braid, because of the geometry of the actual work, the braid continues and is impossible to work back straight.

Sorry I dont have any definitive advice for how to fix this, hopefully someone with a little more experience will chime in.

CW

[Lasse C]

With "4-seam" I mean braiding that gives 4 "panels" running along the work - in other words O2U2 on both sides in 8-strand, O3U3 on both sides in 12-strand, and so on. The effect is the same in any O2U2 sequence, though.

I had not reflected on the fact that twist in the core might be a cause, but it is probable!

I work with on end of the core attached to a hook in the basement wall where I work, and the other end to a hook on a belt around my waist (just like you do when tying macramé). I feel it gives me good control over the tension. Now that you mention it, I have noted that sometimes the core tends to twist when I set it up for a work session, but I did not think it mattered.

I think I´ll make a couple of projects mainly to practice keeping it straight - or, rather: To keep control of the twist, as I sometimes actually want it - and to experiment with which factors influence it!

Thanks for your advice!

Lasse C

[Aggiebraider]

One thing I just thought of, I tried working off the door knob when I started (basically works the same as a hook) and didnt like it because things moved around too much as I braided. I know alot of people use a hook, but I made a braiding stand from some square metal tubing with 2 flat bar stock pieces on the top. One is welded to the tubing, one is loose. I then welded 2 bolts to the attached bar stock and ran them vertically. The loose piece of stock has 2 holes drilled in it so it fits down over the bolts and I can tighten it down onto what I am braiding with wing nuts. I like using a clamp like this alot more because it keeps everything situated where it is and secure. You could also go the easy route and get a small vice or clamp and work off a table. Another thing you might try is to braid a bit and then move what you have braided up, braid some more, move it up. When youre using a clamp, you can do this. That way, you arent just walking backwards away from the parts you have already braided and will eventually get to a point where you have 4 or 5 feet between you and the hook. You could even use a stitching horse for your clamp if you have one. Sorry I know this is probably as clear as mud.

Hope this helps,

CW

[Lasse C]

Actually, your explanation was perfectly clear - possibly because I am a braider, too...

Working from the hook in the basement wall works fine, actually. Our house was built in 1947 and this part of the basement was originally intended as a bomb shelter. (Very stable walls, in other words...)

I don´t just hang the work on the hook, I attach it with a knotted strop that keeps it well in place and is also movable along the finished work. I also have a C-clamp with a jig I have made to allow me to fix the work to the table if I want to, but I have found it really does not add that much compared to the solution I use on the hook.

Lasse C

[Bevan]

Gday Lasse

I am not sure if this is the answer but i tried it and it works for me

Now when i plait 12 strand whips handles and I am plaiting a o2 u2 o2 when i lay the last string of a pass i will then snug up the 1st , 3rd and 5th string on the same side i have just finnished laying the string If i am doing a o3u3 i will snug up 1 and 4 ,i repeat this on every string i lay also i look down the thong to see what is going on and adjust accordingly !! I know it takes abit longer but i just cant seem to get out of the habit , i plait with a vice with wooden block jaws and a bit of leather for protection , If you have a bit of spare time try this it might help you , the vice might be of help for ya to mate , i plait for about 6 to 10 inches then move the work piece closer to the vice again

Cheers mate , i hope this helps you

Bevan

If you look at my web site all the pics are before I used this method, the pic on this post is the latest whip i have done,, but all my Bosals i have plaited like this !!

www.bwrwhips.com

Edited November 4, 2010 by Bevan