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TN leather

Has Anyone Tried This?

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So I was molding some leather over a form last night, and I was being lazy and had not made a 2 part mold. So I started pininig it to my cork board. Then I got an Idea.

Why not mold it over the form using the vacumn sealer (food saver). It worked great at making the shape in the leather, but it will no dry out, but just wanted to throw it out there just in case someone wants to run with it.

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So I was molding some leather over a form last night, and I was being lazy and had not made a 2 part mold. So I started pininig it to my cork board. Then I got an Idea.

Why not mold it over the form using the vacumn sealer (food saver). It worked great at making the shape in the leather, but it will no dry out, but just wanted to throw it out there just in case someone wants to run with it.

I had the same idea. I really soaked the holster, then sprayed WD-40 all over the piece, then wrapped it in plastic wrap, then forced it into the holster, watching the main seam for placement. If the piece is set in a sunny window, it will dry rapidly, but I don't know if that's a good idea. If it's just set where it will receive an air current of any kind, it will eventually dry. One has to watch it closely and,as it starts getting drier, to pull the piece and replace a couple of times, then leave it some more. One will help the process by turning the piece over every so often. One thing I didn't care for was the imprint the bottom of the plastic would leave on the holster. And I couldn't keep the machine going. When my 3rd Foodsaver quit, I quit trying to use it.

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The part I was making had flesh side to the rough part of the bag so the imprint did not really show up, but that is something I would not have thought about. Good to know.

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It works good. You do not need to leave it in the bag too long, just a few minutes. Does a far better job mokding than I can do by hand.

Aaron

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I've been using that method as well. I get around the imprint of the air channels (ridges) buy placing another piece of smooth plastic in the bag between them and the leather. I've also found that I get great results if I do most of the deep/sharp molding through the plastic while the leather is still really moist (and preferably still sealed). I can chase the lines down very well WITHOUT BURNISHING the leather while doing it. Every time I've tried to get really deep/sharp lines when working directly on the leather, I've ended up with slight burnishing from the friction. After molding, I set the mold in an oven, then dry with forced air, or overnight.

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