Members ShortBBL Posted November 22, 2010 Author Members Report Posted November 22, 2010 ShortBBL:Iinexpensive, (relatively..at around $70) is this rig from Harbor Freight. That's for the little compressor and a set of their 'quick change' airbrush. A little practice and you will do well with it, until you want a more adjustable brush. Mike Thanks!! I might give one a try! Quote http://www.peterscustomleather.com
Members sniper Posted November 23, 2010 Members Report Posted November 23, 2010 Yo, Kat: WHERE did you find trhe Sharpfinger?? Been looking for one for YEARS! BTW;Nice holster and sheath! Quote
Members katsass Posted November 23, 2010 Members Report Posted November 23, 2010 Yo, Kat: WHERE did you find trhe Sharpfinger?? Been looking for one for YEARS! BTW;Nice holster and sheath! sniper, Thanks for the kind words re; the leather work. Found that tittle skinner more than 30 years ago and it has been with me ever since.......a friend found his about about 15 years ago a Wally World. I made him a similar sheath back then. It's a great little skinner. Mike Quote NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!! At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses. Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.
Lobo Posted November 23, 2010 Report Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) Thanks again guys! Maybe I am rushing it a bit. I may also have to think about getting an airbrush setup, although I haven't a clue on what/where to get it. Does anyone here dip-oil there stuff? In the Bianchi DVD's, that how he does it. He uses undyed leather and dips them in neatsfoot oil for a short time... they end up with a pretty nice honey or saddle tan finish. It sounds like he has an expensive drying setup, but he didn't show that part. Laying it out to dry for 24-48 hours might be the ticket if one has no drying system. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I usually use a paint brush to apply neatsfoot oil only to the exterior (hair side) surfaces only. Applying to the flesh side results in very rapid absorption so it is more difficult to control the amount applied and absorbed. Make no mistake about this point, neatsfoot oil never dries. The oil is fully absorbed into the leather fibers and remains there. The more oil that is applied, the more oil will be absorbed until the leather becomes saturated. Long before the leather becomes saturated it will be limp and useless for our purposes. Vegetable tanned leather has been stripped of most of the hide's natural moisture content as part of the tanning process. Wet-forming and drying will further deplete natural moisture content, and molded leather can be very rigid which is good for our purposes, but also raises the potential for cracking when flexed. It is for this reason that I advocate for the use of a modest application of neatsfoot oil, to replenish the moisture content sufficiently that the normal flexing of a holster in use will not cause cracking. There are others, including many with much experience, who disagree with me on this and argue against any use of neatsfoot oil. This reflects a truly honest disagreement for which there is no ready solution. I will continue with time-proven methods that have worked well for me. Others will pursue other methods that appear to be working well for them. You have observed that John Bianchi's natural oiled finish results in a very attractive honey-tone or saddle-tone. This is true, and I have always favored the classic oiled tan finish. The problem to overcome using this method is that of duplicating the final finish coloration from one piece to the next. Matching sets are a real challenge, as each hide will react somewhat differently to the oiling and display different tones. Also, natural oiled tan leather will darken with age and exposure to sunlight with, again, each piece reacting differently. So, utilizing neatsfoot oil to obtain a specific finish color can be a very difficult and frustrating exercise. The first lesson to learn, and to always keep in mind, is that neatsfoot oil does not dry, no matter how long you wait. Applying more oil will result in a darker coloration, but that will also result in ever-increasing flexibility. And there is no practical method of reducing the oil content once it has been applied and absorbed. Neatsfoot oil is an interesting product, rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle. The oil itself is a natural secretion that protects the animals' lower legs from freezing when the animal is exposed to low temperatures during life. Neatsfoot oil can be purchased in whole form, or as "neatsfoot oil compound" which includes other oils such as mineral oil in the mixture (reducing cost). When neatsfoot oil is fully understood and used properly it is a valuable addition to the leather shop. When used indiscriminately neatsfoot oil can ruin a lot of otherwise good work. Best regards. Edited November 23, 2010 by Lobo Quote Lobo Gun Leather serious equipment for serious business, since 1972 www.lobogunleather.com
Members ShortBBL Posted November 23, 2010 Author Members Report Posted November 23, 2010 Just when i thought I had it figured out...... Ouch. This finishing process of the leather work can get real conusing/frustrating! Man... I really need to figure out how/what to do about it. I need to order a pile of leather, but I don't know what to get. Maybe just more W&C Skirting in Chestnut and Black I guess. Bianchi said in his DVD's that a gun belt will take about a pint of oil!! Yikes.... it sure looked nice when done, but. One problem I have had with Sides is that they are way too "soft" feeling about half way down.... seems like plenty of non-useable leather to me.... maybe for other type projects, but I like my holsters much more firm. I need help getting this all figured out. Quote http://www.peterscustomleather.com
Members katsass Posted November 24, 2010 Members Report Posted November 24, 2010 (edited) Just when i thought I had it figured out...... Ouch. This finishing process of the leather work can get real conusing/frustrating! Man... I really need to figure out how/what to do about it. I need to order a pile of leather, but I don't know what to get. Maybe just more W&C Skirting in Chestnut and Black I guess. Bianchi said in his DVD's that a gun belt will take about a pint of oil!! Yikes.... it sure looked nice when done, but. One problem I have had with Sides is that they are way too "soft" feeling about half way down.... seems like plenty of non-useable leather to me.... maybe for other type projects, but I like my holsters much more firm. I need help getting this all figured out. ShortBBL: Take a look at the pic of the airbrush rig. That little bottle in front is half full of neatsfoot oil. I use the airbrush to shoot neatsfoot after wet molding. Lobo's explanation is better than I can put things into words, so all I can add to his statement is, "I couldn't have said it better myself". Mike Edited November 24, 2010 by katsass Quote NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!! At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses. Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.
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