Members rccolt45 Posted December 19, 2010 Members Report Posted December 19, 2010 Hi guys, I am trying to maye an OWB Avenger style holster. I am having a hard time with belt loop placement. Obviously the angle that you cut your loops in respect to the holster will affect the angle that the hoster body can't. I first tried to make a 0 degree can't so I made the loops stright up and down. This resulted in a holster that had a rear ward can't. So My basic question is how to adjust the angle of can't by you placement of belt lopos. Should the top of the loop go be cut towards the front or rear of the holster and should the front and read loops be parrlell to each other? Quote
Cobra Steve Posted December 19, 2010 Report Posted December 19, 2010 Hi guys, I am trying to maye an OWB Avenger style holster. I am having a hard time with belt loop placement. Obviously the angle that you cut your loops in respect to the holster will affect the angle that the hoster body can't. I first tried to make a 0 degree can't so I made the loops stright up and down. This resulted in a holster that had a rear ward can't. So My basic question is how to adjust the angle of can't by you placement of belt lopos. Should the top of the loop go be cut towards the front or rear of the holster and should the front and read loops be parrlell to each other? Hi rccolt45. Have you tried John Bianchi/Matt Whitaker at Frontier Gunleather? The number is: 1-877-877-4704. Steve Quote
Denster Posted December 19, 2010 Report Posted December 19, 2010 The rear slot and front loop need to be parralel to each other. When I do a pattern for an Avenger style I start with a belt width drawn out on the posterboard then lay the gun over it at the cant I want and draw out the front half of the holster. Cut that and fold along the center line to draw out the rear and finish cutting out. Next transfere the belt lines to the rear of the holster. Using a square mark out your rear slot 90deg to the belt lines. I use the pattern and the belt lines to draw out the throat reinforcement and incorporated rear belt loop and stitch lines for the belt. Hope that is clearer than mud. Quote
Members Big O Posted December 20, 2010 Members Report Posted December 20, 2010 The rear slot and front loop need to be parralel to each other. When I do a pattern for an Avenger style I start with a belt width drawn out on the posterboard then lay the gun over it at the cant I want and draw out the front half of the holster. Cut that and fold along the center line to draw out the rear and finish cutting out. Next transfere the belt lines to the rear of the holster. Using a square mark out your rear slot 90deg to the belt lines. I use the pattern and the belt lines to draw out the throat reinforcement and incorporated rear belt loop and stitch lines for the belt. Hope that is clearer than mud. I've found that sometimes, after the molding is done, the slot and the tunnel (my name for the "front loop") are a little "off". I have successfully avoided this problem by moving the slot DOWN by one double thickness of the leather I'm using. (this might explain the rearward cant that the OP ended up with in his "vertical" holster) Quote
Members Haystacker Posted December 20, 2010 Members Report Posted December 20, 2010 What Denster said. I start all of my patterns by first drawing a belt on the pattern material. Then everything is relative to the belt lines. Also a neutral cant seems easier to draw the weapon from the holster than a forward cant. The forward cant seems easier to conceal. I said all that to say this, your slightly reward cant may not be a bad thing. Jeff Quote
Members rccolt45 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Members Report Posted December 20, 2010 thanks for the info guys, I will try it tonight. rob Quote
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