TheTrooper Report post Posted May 13, 2008 Dear all, I am already working on another cue case for me. This is the carving I have already done. I know I have to learn a lot more, but for the 2nd attempt I think it is OK. Especially the mistakes I have made while "walking" the tools are not nice, but I think this is all a matter of practice. What do you all think ?!? Any hints from you ?? Cheers, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdb Report post Posted May 13, 2008 I like that style of lettering. Looks kewl. I like that little monogram diamond too. Yep, practice is always the key, one day it just clicks, and you are off. People don't like to see carving done in black, they don't want to hide the carving...but in this situation it actually accentuates any mistakes. The reflection makes even minor things pop out at you. So don't be too critical of yourself. Someone on this board said something to the effect that, if they didn't see improvements in each new piece, then they weren't doing things right... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted May 13, 2008 Looking good, my kind of colours, runes are nice. I taped the back to keep from curling up after tooling. This looks alot like the tubes I've done. Looking forward to see it finished. It'll be slick. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yaklady Report post Posted May 13, 2008 I have a hint for your lettering. It's perfect except for the halo around the letters. If you were to bevel to the inside instead, you would have no halo to worry about. I really like the font you chose. Can't wait to see the finished product! Kathy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted May 13, 2008 THX a lot, for the kind words and the hints. The font I have used was "Aniron". I got it from dafont.com. This is great resource for fonts, almost free ones :-) I also hope, that I can show up the finished product soon. Cheers, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider Report post Posted May 13, 2008 If you can take a couple of "in-progress" shots I would appreciate it. This looks really cool so far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted May 19, 2008 If you can take a couple of "in-progress" shots I would appreciate it. This looks really cool so far. @Spider here are some updates from this project. Currently I am sewing the backpart together. On this pictures I already sewed the pouch and the patch. i also mounted the handle onto the case-body. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishguy Report post Posted May 20, 2008 Is the body of the pouch veg-tan or chrome tan leather? What weight did you use? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted May 21, 2008 Is the body of the pouch veg-tan or chrome tan leather? What weight did you use? For the pouch I used 4oz. veg-tan leather. As far as I know on chrome tan leather tooling would not be possible. Cheers, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted June 3, 2008 So, yesterday evening I completed my case. Here are the first pictures of it. What do you think ?!? Cheers, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted June 3, 2008 Supernice Marcel! As I said before it has some resemblence to the rod tubes I've done but you also have choosen my favourite colour scheme so my mouth is watered and I feel like trying to do one but not anytime soon though. Got my hands full. What did you use on the inside to keep the shape and did you/ are you going to use a liner on the inside. Cue cases seem to be really thoroghly lined and with different compartments I think. That part seem a bit boring to me but it sure gives a nice end result. Simple and nice solution to where the D-rings for the strap is hooked up. Is the top piece of the cap wetmolded to shape before putting it together? Like to see close-up there aswell as one showing how you stitched the piece around the handles. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted June 3, 2008 (edited) Hello Tom, THX for your comment. Yes I used a liner on the inside. I will make some pics asap. I choosed those parts on purpose to not overload the whole thing. I was thinking about using some more medieval parts, but I liked the automatic-turn lock better. For the top closure I just wet the leather a bit put it around a piece of plywood and put some nails into it (same for the buttom closure). I will also make you some pics of the handles. But this is quiet simple. I made a leather strip with my prefered length and width (4oz veg tan), then I´ve prepared a "wrap" of a thinner and smoother leather (2oz). I thinned out one side (the side which will be on the buttom side, to get a nice and even surface), glued it on the top side of the strip, wrap it once around, glue it on the buttom side, let it dry. Then I made just one hand sewn line in the middle of the wrap. Thats all. As I said, the pics will follow. Cheers, Marcel P.S: Here a pic of the interior. It´s from conventinional plumber and electrics tubes. It is lined with a synthetic suede substitute, which has teflon covered fibres which makes it moisture and dirt resistant. Edited June 3, 2008 by adamant-leather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted June 3, 2008 Hello Tom,THX for your comment. Yes I used a liner on the inside. I will make some pics asap. I choosed those parts on purpose to not overload the whole thing. I was thinking about using some more medieval parts, but I liked the automatic-turn lock better. For the top closure I just wet the leather a bit put it around a piece of plywood and put some nails into it (same for the buttom closure). I will also make you some pics of the handles. But this is quiet simple. I made a leather strip with my prefered length and width (4oz veg tan), then I´ve prepared a "wrap" of a thinner and smoother leather (2oz). I thinned out one side (the side which will be on the buttom side, to get a nice and even surface), glued it on the top side of the strip, wrap it once around, glue it on the buttom side, let it dry. Then I made just one hand sewn line in the middle of the wrap. Thats all. As I said, the pics will follow. Cheers, Marcel Thanks for the explanations Marcel. Really nice to see this one come forth since it's similar to tubes. You get to keep this one? The two tubes I made so far were gone so fast I had no chance to bring them out in daylight for photoshoot. I would have liked to keep em at least a day or two to just sit back and watch them for a while. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted June 3, 2008 Thanks for the explanations Marcel. Really nice to see this one come forth since it's similar to tubes.You get to keep this one? The two tubes I made so far were gone so fast I had no chance to bring them out in daylight for photoshoot. I would have liked to keep em at least a day or two to just sit back and watch them for a while. Tom No problem Tom, this one is definetly a keeper. If anyone wants a case I can make another one. I also think that nobody wants a case with my nickname and my business name (if I establish it some time :-) on it . Regards, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnBarton Report post Posted June 3, 2008 No problem Tom,this one is definetly a keeper. If anyone wants a case I can make another one. I also think that nobody wants a case with my nickname and my business name (if I establish it some time :-) on it . Regards, Marcel Very Nice! Marcel. Don't sell your first one! I am so glad that our conversations have paid off. You did a fantastic job. I am really happy to see that you went with stitching the back instead of rivets. That is a lot more work but the look is so much cleaner. I am concerned that the hinge area of your lid on the back will be too weak to support the top. You probably want to reinforce that area and make it a little larger. The latch you chose is weak but I know you don't have a lot of choices. Since you know it's limitations it will work for your use but remember that it's on the weak side for this type of case when you make cases for others. Lastly, your side handle also appears to be a little weak. Using one piece of leather seems strong now but it tends to stretch with the weight of the case. Again, for your own use you will be more in tune with what your case is doing and you will automatically "baby" it when you see the handle is a little too weak. So think about reinforcing this area with a double piece of leather and less stress on the inside rivets. Anyway, this is an awesome first or second effort and I am very proud of you. Welcome to the fraternity of cue case makers. Make sure you post these pictures to AZ Billiards. You will get some orders right away I am sure. Looking forward to seeing more, now I can steal ideas from you! :-) Note: For those of you that want to make a cue case. Cue cases have some special needs and get used/abused heartily. Pool cues are sensitive instruments that can cost upwards of $10,000. It's not easy to make cases that truly protect the multi-thousand dollar cues that go in them. But it is rewarding when you do blend all the elements and come up with a great looking and truly protective case. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted June 3, 2008 Very Nice! Marcel. Don't sell your first one! I am so glad that our conversations have paid off. You did a fantastic job. I am really happy to see that you went with stitching the back instead of rivets. That is a lot more work but the look is so much cleaner. I am concerned that the hinge area of your lid on the back will be too weak to support the top. You probably want to reinforce that area and make it a little larger. The latch you chose is weak but I know you don't have a lot of choices. Since you know it's limitations it will work for your use but remember that it's on the weak side for this type of case when you make cases for others. Lastly, your side handle also appears to be a little weak. Using one piece of leather seems strong now but it tends to stretch with the weight of the case. Again, for your own use you will be more in tune with what your case is doing and you will automatically "baby" it when you see the handle is a little too weak. So think about reinforcing this area with a double piece of leather and less stress on the inside rivets. Anyway, this is an awesome first or second effort and I am very proud of you. Welcome to the fraternity of cue case makers. Make sure you post these pictures to AZ Billiards. You will get some orders right away I am sure. Looking forward to seeing more, now I can steal ideas from you! :-) Note: For those of you that want to make a cue case. Cue cases have some special needs and get used/abused heartily. Pool cues are sensitive instruments that can cost upwards of $10,000. It's not easy to make cases that truly protect the multi-thousand dollar cues that go in them. But it is rewarding when you do blend all the elements and come up with a great looking and truly protective case. Hello John, Thank you so much for your post. You can´t imagine how important it is for me, to hear this from a real master cue case builder. Also THX for the hints, i will keep them in mind, when I make a case for a customer. I already posted this also to AZ...and got a request for a few cases *lol Cheers, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheTrooper Report post Posted June 4, 2008 @TomSwede Here I have some pics from the inside and one from the buttom. Cheers, Marcel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted June 4, 2008 Oh yeah, this looks nice. The construction is more complex than one might think. I like the brass turn lock, adds a nice touch. Well done! Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites