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Posted

Johnny, I keep a role of waxed paper and a roll of aluminum foil within reach all the time. When I glue my hat brims together I cut the waxed paper into the shape of the brim and then slice it into pie-shaped section. I can pull these out one at a time to keep everything together.

Oh, and a kitchen rolling pin is great for making sure you have a tight bond between two flat pieces of leather when gluing. Teflon rolling pin if you have the funds.

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Posted (edited)

Johnny, I keep a role of waxed paper and a roll of aluminum foil within reach all the time. When I glue my hat brims together I cut the waxed paper into the shape of the brim and then slice it into pie-shaped section. I can pull these out one at a time to keep everything together.

Oh, and a kitchen rolling pin is great for making sure you have a tight bond between two flat pieces of leather when gluing. Teflon rolling pin if you have the funds.

I have a rolling pin for large areas and I use a small hand roller that is supposed to be used for laminating counter tops, on smaller areas.

"Sharpies" my best friend. I use them for many uses. The big fat ones are great for forming leather around guns. I also use the big fat ones for coloring the edges of my holsters. I use mostly black for this purpose and I get a nice black to my edges. I have also used the same color sharpie, as close as I can get it, to outline something or to make accent lines on my leather.

When stitching some of my holsters or knife sheaths I use a real heavy white waxed nylon cord and the sharpie fine points work great for coloring this to match my stains.

One thing I love about leather work is that you are only limitations is how far your imagination will let you be.

Edited by Johnny B
Posted

When cleaning up beveling lines or tool marks after the carving has dried, I use a very small paint brush loaded with water on just the areas I need to work. Keeps from getting the rest of the piece damp, and risk the impressions fading.

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